Uh Oh Mobil 1

[Burla]

I haven't paid close attention when I changed it, but I remember it always just looks like the new filter but dirty. The media and pleats all seemed the same and intact . I'm going to do a change within the next week or so and I'll pay a closer attention to it. I've already bought a new Mopar filter for it so I'm going to use that. I've been doing the changes at about 6,500 to 7000 miles when the OLM is about 15 to 20%.

I would love to know how the filter is, please update the filter thread with your results. Smash the filter between your hands and see if it is crunchy or pliable, that will tell the story.

 

[tap4154]

I would love to know how the filter is, please update the filter thread with your results. Smash the filter between your hands and see if it is crunchy or pliable, that will tell the story.

So what's the deal, if I crush it in my hand it might break apart if it's not up to *****?

 

[Burla]

If you take a new one and crush the pleats, it will be pliable and soft, no crunch. When paper filters have many heat cycles the binders that hold the paper together stiffen up and no longer filter oil the same way as new paper, not even close. In fact most of the time the filter will either use bypass from pressure or blow a hole in the filter somewhere. The symptom of this is crunch, so when you squeeze the filter it will either crunch or it wont. The general consensus on paper filters is 3 mos or 3-5k miles, that was the stated performance in all white paper forever. Now, since then they have changed it to match lubrication goals, as in they "say" because one filter can make 7500 miles in a freeway miles thing, they all can, but that certainly isn't the case. When you change your oil, yes measure the crunch, lol. It will be like cardboard, then try a spun microglass filters, they actually get softer with use, and many people believe the actually filter better the longer you use them, aka Syn.

Just one man's opinion, I encourage you to read filter thread for other opinions.

 

[tap4154]

If you take a new one and crush the pleats, it will be pliable and soft, no crunch. When paper filters have many heat cycles the binders that hold the paper together stiffen up and no longer filter oil the same way as new paper, not even close. In fact most of the time the filter will either use bypass from pressure or blow a hole in the filter somewhere. The symptom of this is crunch, so when you squeeze the filter it will either crunch or it wont. The general consensus on paper filters is 3 mos or 3-5k miles, that was the stated performance in all white paper forever. Now, since then they have changed it to match lubrication goals, as in they "say" because one filter can make 7500 miles in a freeway miles thing, they all can, but that certainly isn't the case. When you change your oil, yes measure the crunch, lol. It will be like cardboard, then try a spun microglass filters, they actually get softer with use, and many people believe the actually filter better the longer you use them, aka Syn.

Just one man's opinion, I encourage you to read filter thread for other opinions.

Good info. I'm at about 6400 miles and have the day off, I may even do the change today instead of just watching all this political stuff currently on the TV. One thing about the cartridge though, you can even change it in between oil changes and not lose a drop of oil. That way if you want to run the oil 7500 miles or more you just change it halfway through. I haven't been doing that, but I'll see what kind of condition it's in when I pull it out.

Edit: Drove out for lunch, let it cool a few minutes, and got it changed. Don't see any holes in the old filter, but it is brittle I suppose. If I push hard with my fingers I can break the pleats. I didn't push on the new filter pleats at all, to avoid damage. In the second pic you can see how it breaks, but I suspect that could happen if I did that to the new one?

I may begin changing the filter in-between oil changes...

 

[tap4154]

By the way I just learned that these Mopar filter cartridges are not just paper, they are a cellulose and polyester blend. They are pretty stiff to begin with.

 

[Burla]

Good info. I'm at about 6400 miles and have the day off, I may even do the change today instead of just watching all this political stuff currently on the TV. One thing about the cartridge though, you can even change it in between oil changes and not lose a drop of oil. That way if you want to run the oil 7500 miles or more you just change it halfway through. I haven't been doing that, but I'll see what kind of condition it's in when I pull it out.

Edit: Drove out for lunch, let it cool a few minutes, and got it changed. Don't see any holes in the old filter, but it is brittle I suppose. If I push hard with my fingers I can break the pleats. I didn't push on the new filter pleats at all, to avoid damage. In the second pic you can see how it breaks, but I suspect that could happen if I did that to the new one?

I may begin changing the filter in-between oil changes...

View attachment 192734 View attachment 192735

you might want to see if fram ultra or wix xp makes your cartridge.

 

[ChrisWilliams]

Anybody WANT my first born? He is in his teen years & driving us crazy!

BTW If you do some research on here & look at a few youtube videos it will be very clear which oil & filter to use & which to NOT. The Mopar filters are pretty much at the bottom of the list.

When my oldest was 17, she said to the wife and I. You know when I turn 18 I’m moving out? Both of us simultaneously wave and said bye. The look on that girls face LOL

 

[gofishn]

Hey everyone, first thread! Went to my local auto part store to get oil and a filter for my ‘16 1500 with a 5.7. The miserable old man behind the counter went up one side of me and down the other because Mobil 1 didn’t have a Chrysler certification and I should have been using an OEM filter instead of a Mobil 1. I’ve been using Mobil 1 in my truck since brand new every 4-5k miles I now have a tick over 50k. Plus I’ve been using Mobil 1 going on 20 years without any issues. Has anyone else been running M1 in their 4th Gen without issues? Am I causing damage I’m unaware of? I know some people believe if you don’t use strictly OEM your truck will burst in flames and satan will take your first born son.

You are perfectly fine.
Ignore that old man or any other pontificating idiot making minimum wage

Pssst, there are far better olils, for your Hemi and filters too. but, the one you use is oil and will not harm the engine, in and of itself.,

 

[Zack02]

Interesting, that you say you have a tick. My old man just switch from M-1 to red line... It's a 2017 6.4 with ~45,000 miles and his hemi tick is on the mend...

 

[QwikKota]

My truck has now been at the dealer since December 10th, 62,260 miles, Last oil change was with M1 5w20, The wait list for service at our dealer was 3 weeks out for an oil change, so I had to use a local company that I have used in the past on other hemi's I have owned with no issues, I have always had the "Hemi Tick" but after swapping to M1, I am now waiting for the "NEW" Engine to get installed.... Lifters, Rockers, Camshaft, valve springs, pushrods, and also there was something eating up the main bearing as well...

PLEASE HAVE IT CHECKED BEFORE YOU RUN OUT OF YOUR WARRANTY!!!!!!!!

So your saying switching to Mobil 1 destroyed your engine? That makes no sense at all. It is factory fill for many high end cars. What were you using before?

 

[crackerjack1957]

Delete......

 

[repo4sale]

Deleted 10,000lbs 2015 Ram 2500 crew cab camper shell 4x4 g56-6speed. 25-31mpgs freeway with 5-40w diesel oil. 275,000++

Sent from my moto g(7) power using Tapatalk

 

[Burla]

Trump loves m1

 

[canadiankodiak700]

you might want to see if fram ultra or wix xp makes your cartridge.

Pentastar v6 wix oil filter: wix wl10010xp

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

 

[tap4154]

Trump loves m1

Make sense, Mobil is the number one oil in Russia.

https://www.statista.com/statistics/547367/leading-engine-oil-brands-in-russia-by-consumer-rating/

 

[Kevin Barker]

So your saying switching to Mobil 1 destroyed your engine? That makes no sense at all. It is factory fill for many high end cars. What were you using before?

That is never what I said! It has always ran with M1 in it.

 

[Kevin Barker]

You are perfectly fine.
Ignore that old man or any other pontificating idiot making minimum wage

Pssst, there are far better olils, for your Hemi and filters too. but, the one you use is oil and will not harm the engine, in and of itself.,

Thank you!



UPDATE*** THIS IS BS!!! BIG O DODGE in GREENVILLE SC is a RIP-OFF!!*****

Dec. 10-26th for an engine swap, 13 days I had to pay for a rental total bill $637!!!

Dec. 28th - Called service department and explained that the truck was making an awful noise/noises from the front of the truck, notified them that my battery cover had been destroyed, my heat blanket under my hood was missing 5 clips, the clips on my radiator shroud were broken, that before the engine swap there was something mounted to a bracket beside my PC that no longer has something mounted there, that there is a DEEP GOUGE in my bumper where they removed the front end, my vinyl stripe on my hood was completely ruined, AND THERE WERE 3 OIL PAN BOLTS BROKEN OFF IN THE BRAND NEW BLOCK, AND TIRES NOW RUBBING THE INNER FENDER. Scheduled appt. for Jan. 14th.

January 14th - Returned for my front end banging and clanking when turning since the engine replacement, AND ALSO THE ABOVE MENTIONED ISSUES!!

ASCM Response... We replaced the bolts in the oil pan, AND WE CUT OFF A PIECE OF YOUR FENDER LINER. NOISE IN FRONT END IS THE FENDER LINER, and that my front end was fine, ALSO TOLD THAT UNTIL THE SERVICE MANAGER HIMSELF IS BACK FROM GETTING HIS FACE RE-ARRANGED FROM A DIFFERENT CUSTOMER BREAKING IT, THAT NONE OF THE SECONDARY ISSUES i.e. VINYL STRIPE, BATTERY COVER, HEAT BLANKET PINS AND ALL, COULD BE ASSESSED. The technician riding with me on the 14th, stated that the vinyl could not have gotten cut there because they did not have the hood off, the ASCM tells me the complete opposite of "It is impossible that it occurred here because your hood was on a padded bodywork stand the whole time" told everything was fine and good to go.

Picked up truck on the evening of January 14th, front end is still clanking and banging by the time I get it home (63 miles away)

January 25th - Took truck back to dealer on 1/25 for same front end noise, was told to schedule ANOTHER appointment for 2/5.

Feb. 5th - Returned truck to BIG O, told this time that I have to file ANOTHER 3rd party warranty w/deductible, because my PS rack, and upper and lower control arms both passenger and both driver side have failed. Also, told that "THEY REMOVED AND REPLACED THE ENGINE WITHOUT DISCONNECTING ANYTHING ATTACHED TO THE STEERING" ALSO THAT THEY WERE ABLE TO DRILL OUT THE OIL PAN BOLTS ****AGAIN**** FOR THE 2ND TIME NOW BECAUSE THE OIL PAN WAS LEAKING OIL!!!!

A BRAND NEW ENGINE(refurb. i assume) has now had 6 bolts drilled out of the NEW block, one of those bolts are a completely different size now and it is NOW leaking oil!!! my question and frustrations are HOW DID MY CONTROL ARMS AND POWER STERRING RACK FAIL WHILE SITTING ON A LIFT FOR 16 DAYS, NOT TO MENTION THAT MY CHROME STEP BARS ARE NOW BENT AND LOOSE, BECAUSE THEY DIDN'T USE THE RIGHT SPACERS ON THE LIFT AND LIFTED THE TRUCK ON THE STEP BARS.

I AM SUPER METICULIOUS ABOUT MY TRUCK..... I WORK A NORMAL MFG. JOB, AND ON MY DAYS OFF I ALSO HAVE MY OWN MOBILE VINYL WRAP BUSINESS. MY TRUCK IS MY ADVERTISEMENT SO, FOR THE DEALER TO INTENTIONALLY PUSH ME OUT PAST MY FACTORY WARRANTY IN DECEMBER, STATING THAT IT WOULD BE AT LEAST 2 WEEKS BEFORE I COULD GET THE TRUCK IN, TO COMPLETELY HAVING NO CONCERN OF THE STUFF THAT THEY SCREWED UP, AND CONSIDERING THAT i HAVE HAD MY TRUCK BACK THERE FOR THE 3RD TIME IN LESS THAN 40 DAYS, REGARDING MULTIPLE ISSUES THAT DEVELOPED SOLELY AND IMMEDIATELY FOLLOWING THE ENGINE REPLACEMENT, AND THEN TO BE TOLD THAT I AM LYING ABOUT MY HEAT BLANKET, BATTERY COVER, VINYL HOOD DECAL, STEP BARS, MOUNTS THAT CLEARLY HELD SOMETHING BEFORE THAT NO LONGER HAVE ANYTHING THERE, GOUGES IN MY BUMPER....

WHY DID/DOES MY FENDER LINERS NO LONGER FIT AND NEED TO BE CUT-OFF???

AM I THE ONLY ONE THAT THINKS THAT IS A LITTLE OFF, NEW ENGINE=OE PARTS NO LONGER FIT ON THE TRUCK AND NEED TO BE CUT OFF?

OLD ENGINE = 16.9-19MPG
NEW ENGINE = 8-12.6MPG

THERE ARE ONLY 2,250 OF THE 16' SPORT STINGER YELLOW/26L PACKAGE'S IN THE WORLD, SO... FOR THE DEALERSHIP TO EVEN ATTEMPT TO GIVE MY TRUCK BACK TO ME IN THIS CONDITION AND THE COMPLETE AND UTTER DISRESPECTFUL sERVICE DEPARTMENT AND MANAGEMENT IS ABSOLUTELY STUNNING. I HAVE REQUESTED AT LEAST 5-10 TIMES THAT I WANT TO SPEAK WITH THE OWNERS, I GET BLOWN OFF AND THE RUN AROUND ABOUT SPEAKING TO THEM.

CAN ANYONE HERE HELP???

 

[Burla]

the gov't says it's true

see engine break in

 

[RoadRamblerNJ]

Step 1. File a Police report. Have them list every one of your concerns. They will want to speak to the Service Mgr and possibly the owner to document what they say as well.

Step 2. Get a lawyer! This step alone can have a profound effect on their original position regarding your laundry list.

I've personally been involved with people having very similar allegations, not always with a motor vehicle but some were.

No, I'm not the person with the worst luck on planet Earth, I was the cop taking the reports. It is important you call. That carry's some weight. Sometimes a solution was arrived at before I even left. That eliminates Step 2, which saves you some $$$. If it cannot be avoided, often a single letter from a lawyer sent directly to the owner gets results.

Good luck brother. Keep us posted.

 

[Burla]

Interesting question, what are the responsibilities of dealers on warranty work, and did you know they were going to replace engine as opposed to rebuilding it when you took it in? If I stay neutral, I can see both sides. I even had a tranny replaced under warranty and they didn't replace rear main, leaked until I sold it, but with in tolerance, I didn't fight it. However, I did fight after that on a vehicle that wasn't being fixed to my satisfaction, I sued, they settled, 13 grand in my and my lawyers pocket, 10 for me 3 for lawyer. I would call lemon law lawyer and ask if they will take case, if they will, chances are their will be settlement. Nice truck, and good luck solving your issues.

Look at the bright side, you have a 2016 with a new engine, if all else fails, that is cool. When you go to resale, that will be great for value, save receipts.