Undercoating.....

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Big Blue Hemi

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I'm sure it been discussed previously but here goes...
Is the petroleum based tar like undercoating an acceptable choice? I surely don't want to create a bigger problem. I don't have access to a real garage and the closest business near me is 2 hours away in the next state and is a Ziebart franchise.
They also offer a parafin based process for the inside of the doors etc.
Thoughts??
 

MoparBrent

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Stay away from those types of undercoating and Ziebart especially. Just looked up some reviews and videos of the aftermath.

It will trap moisture against the frame and rust it out way quicker than just leaving it bare. And maintenance after? Forget about it. Some shops will even refuse to work on your vehicle if it has that kind of product on it.

Stick to oil based undercoat products such as Krown or fluid film. Apply every year in the fall and your truck will last a very long time. Also remember to remove your wheel well liners as you won’t be able to reach critical areas with them left in
 
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Big Blue Hemi

Big Blue Hemi

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Stay away from those types of undercoating and Ziebart especially. Just looked up some reviews and videos of the aftermath.

It will trap moisture against the frame and rust it out way quicker than just leaving it bare. And maintenance after? Forget about it. Some shops will even refuse to work on your vehicle if it has that kind of product on it.

Stick to oil based undercoat products such as Krown or fluid film. Apply every year in the fall and your truck will last a very long time. Also remember to remove your wheel well liners as you won’t be able to reach critical areas with them left in
Kind of what my logic was. Appreciate the confirmation. The bad part is that I can't find anyone in the area that does undercoating.
 

MoparBrent

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Kind of what my logic was. Appreciate the confirmation. The bad part is that I can't find anyone in the area that does undercoating.

Do you have any space at all available? You could buy yourself fluid film and a wand to reach everything.
 

chrisbh17

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The bedliner stuff would not be much different than the spray on rubber stuff that ends up trapping moisture and dirt and salt. It will eventually get chipped from driving and that means spots where bad stuff can hide and eventually rust.

Better off diy-ing or having someone spray an oil based product under the truck. Fluid film and krown seem to have the biggest "installer" networks, hopefully OP can find one within a decent distance.

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
 

2010 Infantry Vet

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Undercoating with anything like that would make servicing a total b1t$$. Not worth the trouble it will cause.
You grind any rust off, spray self etching primer, then spray can bed liner. Did mine last summer, not one spot of rust has came back.
Spraying fluid film is nightmare of a mess if and when you work on anything under the truck.
 

chrisbh17

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That works great there, because you can reach it.

But what about the wheel well above the wheel well, every inner body panel, inside the frame (and between the frame and the body), the underside of the body itself, etc. Also inside the doors (for the bottom edge that seems to always rust out), inside the rockers, inside the tailgate.

Spraying oil is a whole lot easier to get into those spots. I sprayed my truck with Corrosion Free a month after I bought the truck (and about 1 year later) and the rear diff looks like it did on day 1.
 

Stefan N

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That works great there, because you can reach it.

But what about the wheel well above the wheel well, every inner body panel, inside the frame (and between the frame and the body), the underside of the body itself, etc. Also inside the doors (for the bottom edge that seems to always rust out), inside the rockers, inside the tailgate.

Spraying oil is a whole lot easier to get into those spots. I sprayed my truck with Corrosion Free a month after I bought the truck (and about 1 year later) and the rear diff looks like it did on day 1.

This is used here in Sweden https://www.valvolineeurope.com/english/products/tectyl/transportation/cid(7113)/tectyl_4d750
 
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17crewram

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I have a friend who has a Pro Fleet franchise. Costs me about $160/year. When he sprays, he takes out rail lights, uses long spray tube to get in between all cracks. He does drill 3 holes per door in the door sill to get into the inner rocker areas. There is no other way to protect that area. Puts in plugs when done. He uses a thin film in all areas except underneath. There he uses a thick slime like oil that sticks all winter.
 

Moparfanatic21

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I have a friend who has a Pro Fleet franchise. Costs me about $160/year. When he sprays, he takes out rail lights, uses long spray tube to get in between all cracks. He does drill 3 holes per door in the door sill to get into the inner rocker areas. There is no other way to protect that area. Puts in plugs when done. He uses a thin film in all areas except underneath. There he uses a thick slime like oil that sticks all winter.
So you know where he is located or what he uses?
 

TigreST

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Stay away from those types of undercoating and Ziebart especially. Just looked up some reviews and videos of the aftermath.

It will trap moisture against the frame and rust it out way quicker than just leaving it bare. And maintenance after? Forget about it. Some shops will even refuse to work on your vehicle if it has that kind of product on it.

Stick to oil based undercoat products such as Krown or fluid film. Apply every year in the fall and your truck will last a very long time. Also remember to remove your wheel well liners as you won’t be able to reach critical areas with them left in


Back in the day I worked for a Ziebart shop. The whole family had protection applied to our vehicles. Years later I bought my brothers 88 Ford Ranger and did a semi body off restoration of a sort. Wow..not impressed at all with the results of the "protection". As you state Brent, everywhere there was a nut, bolt, rivet that broke the seal of the protective medium there was extensive corrosion around the fastener and along the path that the break in the sealant provided. As long as the seal of the material is not broken it worked fine...but other wise it did not. I chipped most all of the stuff off (in places there was moisture underneath) and then had the frame blasted and painted again. Ziebart changed the formulation to a soft non-hardening type some years back, but I still steer clear of anything that forms a semi hard layer. As already stated, it can help hold moisture against the surface, and then all you need is oxygen and bingo,...rust. Current protection of choice is Krown. One of the Canadian University's (Windsor) did a study and Krown was somewhat proven to extend a vehicles body life span. I use a drivethrough no touch local car wash to help keep the RAM clean in the winter. Part of the deal is a underside spray as you pull into the bay. The Krown film stays put even after the underside wash. The now long since sold off Ranger is pictured below back in its prime shortly after the build.

lhttps://www.newswire.ca/news-releases/university-research-demonstrates-the-benefits-of-krown-rust-control-treatments-691009851.html

T

TSWRanger.jpg
 
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MoparBrent

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Back in the day I worked for a Ziebart shop. The whole family had protection applied to our vehicles. Years later I bought my brothers 88 Ford Ranger and did a semi body off restoration of a sort. Wow..not impressed at all with the results of the "protection". As you state Brent, everywhere there was a nut, bolt, rivet that broke the seal of the protective medium there was extensive corrosion around the fastener and along the path that the break in the sealant provided. As long as the seal of the material is not broken it worked fine...but other wise it did not. I chipped most all of the stuff off (in places there was moisture underneath) and then had the frame blasted and painted again. Ziebart changed the formulation to a soft non-hardening type some years back, but I still steer clear of anything that forms a semi hard layer. As already stated, it can help hold moisture against the surface, and then all you need is oxygen and bingo,...rust. Current protection of choice is Krown. One of the Canadian University's (Windsor) did a study and Krown was somewhat proven to extend a vehicles body life span. I use a drivethrough no touch local car wash to help keep the RAM clean in the winter. Part of the deal is a underside spray as you pull into the bay. The Krown film stays put even after the underside wash. The now long since sold off Ranger is pictured below back in its prime shortly after the build.

lhttps://www.newswire.ca/news-releases/university-research-demonstrates-the-benefits-of-krown-rust-control-treatments-691009851.html

T

View attachment 156785

Yea that just drives home the point and nice to have an honest opinion from a previous worker. Ever try to remove a sensor or any kind of electrical connector with that stuff on it? It's impossible and you need to buy all new wiring/sensors whatever it may be that has the product on it.

I use krown myself and frequently wash my truck throughout the winter season to keep salt off and I have very minimal surface rust in some spots
 
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