Very Rough Ride!!

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smoothee

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If it's happening without the sway bar i'll look into the strut setting.
From the pics you posted it seems you're using the 4th notch so that should be 1.2"
How is the spacer situation setup in your case, Do you have a top spacer only ? or top spacer + preload spacer ? what's the size on the spacers ?
Have you done the droop test per post#9 ? Curious to see how much can you droop and what's the angle on your UCA's and CV axels when the wheels are in the air.
Just the top spacer, no preload. It's the BDS 4" kit spacer, same height as the RC one I had replaced with it.
See Post #25 for droop test, roughly 3.5" droop, both tires off the ground. BJ angles didn't look too bad and I didn't think to get a CV pic. I will though, but they didn't look too bad either, nothing appeared to be binding.
I second the droop test to see what you got. The BDS 4” kits want the struts to be turned 180 degrees not the case on the 6” so with the 4” there is not much wiggle room with the geometry. The problem is it’s an older kit and really has to be diagnosed one part at a time. Is it not bad on big bumps but small bumps feel like you have a solid suspension?(meaning small bumps feel exaggerated and like someone kit the front bumper with a bat)
I hear ya. Really wish there were good dedicated suspension shops around here. You're spot on with the small bumps, but it's bad on big dips and bumps as well. Not so bad with the sway bar on though. It was ok all around after changing upper control arms and having wheel alignment. Then literally the next day it was like a different truck again. That's the part I can't explain.
 
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smoothee

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My level just showed up. I forgot about the leveling kits not being true to size. The 2" only measures just about 1 1/4" so not even sure if any point to use? Unless I max the Bils to 2.8?
I also just decided to measure all four corners since it's been a while and my pass side is sitting about 1 1/4" higher. That's strange. Last time I measured both sides were within 1/4". So right now front pass side actually sits higher than the rear.
 

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My level just showed up. I forgot about the leveling kits not being true to size. The 2" only measures just about 1 1/4" so not even sure if any point to use? Unless I max the Bils to 2.8?
I also just decided to measure all four corners since it's been a while and my pass side is sitting about 1 1/4" higher. That's strange. Last time I measured both sides were within 1/4". So right now front pass side actually sits higher than the rear.
That's because our IFS motion ratio. it's 1.6:1 more or less, so 1.25x1.6=2" height.
 

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My level just showed up. I forgot about the leveling kits not being true to size. The 2" only measures just about 1 1/4" so not even sure if any point to use? Unless I max the Bils to 2.8?
I also just decided to measure all four corners since it's been a while and my pass side is sitting about 1 1/4" higher. That's strange. Last time I measured both sides were within 1/4". So right now front pass side actually sits higher than the rear.
What are your plans for the level
 
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smoothee

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As Hodge suggested, I'm thinking of swapping out the 4" strut spacers with the level and raising the Bils from 1.2 to max. to possibly eliminate the struts being the cause, as I'm only getting about 1.5" of down travel before hitting the bump stops.
 

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So it's worse with the sway bar off. And now you're leaning 1.25"? Is that with sway bar connected?

Don't mind the overall height of the spacer it's self, just honor the lift height it's advertised for and offset that with the preload in the 6112s. Same theory as the ready lift 4" kits, except you have differential drops.

I still feel like stuffing a 4" tall spacer above a stock strut just has **** jammed up in there, to me none of this makes sense but something has your geometry wadded up pretty bad.
 

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As Hodge suggested, I'm thinking of swapping out the 4" strut spacers with the level and raising the Bils from 1.2 to max. to possibly eliminate the struts being the cause, as I'm only getting about 1.5" of down travel before hitting the bump stops.
You’d be a lot better off lowering the bills to the first notch and using the current spacer
 

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@smoothee measure your current top hat spacer and let me know what it is. Then post your measurements in all 4 corners
 

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You’d be a lot better off lowering the bills to the first notch and using the current spacer
Just to clarify, my logic behind this was it seems he is running minimal up travel currently. Iirc the 6112s are a small amount longer in compression than stock, but not by much. With him having 3.5" down travel that leaves something like 2-2.5" of compression, taking into account the big bump stop on the shaft and that's like 1"-1.5" of compression before he's in the bump zone. The pictures really don't show much out of the ordinary compared to what you or jb1 posted in the past, heck you had like 8" of lift with that eibach combo for a bit and were stoked on ride quality. You cant revert back to stock after installing these kits either....corrext?

Again this was just a theory, I don't and have never had a drop bracket lift so I have ZERO to compare to. It just seems awfully see if that the change to 6112s started a whirl wind of nonsense. Having bump steer type issues in an IFS truck has me scratching my head.
 

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Just to clarify, my logic behind this was it seems he is running minimal up travel currently. Iirc the 6112s are a small amount longer in compression than stock, but not by much. With him having 3.5" down travel that leaves something like 2-2.5" of compression, taking into account the big bump stop on the shaft and that's like 1"-1.5" of compression before he's in the bump zone. The pictures really don't show much out of the ordinary compared to what you or jb1 posted in the past, heck you had like 8" of lift with that eibach combo for a bit and were stoked on ride quality. You cant revert back to stock after installing these kits either....corrext?

Again this was just a theory, I don't and have never had a drop bracket lift so I have ZERO to compare to. It just seems awfully see if that the change to 6112s started a whirl wind of nonsense. Having bump steer type issues in an IFS truck has me scratching my head.
I get it and see where you’re coming from. But removing some preload from the 6112’s are going to soften the ride. Also the 6112’s could have had a bad seal and blew out pre mature (easily missed with the suspension not kept clean)
 
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smoothee

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So it's worse with the sway bar off. And now you're leaning 1.25"? Is that with sway bar connected?

Don't mind the overall height of the spacer it's self, just honor the lift height it's advertised for and offset that with the preload in the 6112s. Same theory as the ready lift 4" kits, except you have differential drops.

I still feel like stuffing a 4" tall spacer above a stock strut just has **** jammed up in there, to me none of this makes sense but something has your geometry wadded up pretty bad.
Sway bar still disconnected, will be throwing it back on tomorrow after work. Last time I measured the front on both sides were about 3/4" lower than the rear. Will measure again after putting the bar back on.
Makes sense on the spacer size, just was a little confused at first with the difference compared to the current spacer. But yeah, something is whack for sure.
@smoothee measure your current top hat spacer and let me know what it is. Then post your measurements in all 4 corners
Will do, will be tomorrow. And I'll inspect the Bils closer. I really need to clean up the suspension again before the winter hits. The old Krown keeps the rust away for the most part but looks like **** I will admit.
 

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Sway bar still disconnected, will be throwing it back on tomorrow after work. Last time I measured the front on both sides were about 3/4" lower than the rear. Will measure again after putting the bar back on.
Makes sense on the spacer size, just was a little confused at first with the difference compared to the current spacer. But yeah, something is whack for sure.

Will do, will be tomorrow. And I'll inspect the Bils closer. I really need to clean up the suspension again before the winter hits. The old Krown keeps the rust away for the most part but looks like **** I will admit.
I get it gotta do oil sprays so the truck won’t rot out the first winter LOL. I’m leaning towards a bad strut at the moment I wouldn’t bet on it just yet
 
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smoothee

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I get it gotta do oil sprays so the truck won’t rot out the first winter LOL. I’m leaning towards a bad strut at the moment I wouldn’t bet on it just yet
Haha yeah there's trucks a lot newer than mine around here in a lot worse shape.

Ok so did a few things. Reinstalled front sway bar, and made sure all tire psi the same. Measurements on level ground with full tank of fuel:
Driv Rear: 43"
Pass Rear: 43 1/2"
Driv Front: 42 3/4"
Pass Front: 44"

Cleaned up struts and didn't see any signs of leakage. Measured both from bottom of strut spacer to bottom of fork, pass side 1/2" longer.
With both tires off the ground measured 13 1/4" and 13 1/2" front top of tire to fender. Noting that with tires on the ground measured 10 1/2" and 11 1/2".
Checked steering rack to frame and no play.
I don't know if I mentioned but the wheel will jerk whether I hit with both front tires or whether it's just one side or the other.

Pics of 4" strut spacer and suspension at full droop.
 

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smoothee

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Couple more
 

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hodge-xj

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I got no idea. Something is binding, obviously, but the big question is what.....Again obvious statement there. Honestly, if you can, I would rip that whole thing apart starting with the drivers side which is the potentially problematic side. At least with the struts out you can make sure they both fully extend and check them for any signs of obvious issues. Than it's just process of elimination checking the front end for what it is that's binding. If everything seems like it's not binding I second the thought the struts wiped. Only way to really confirm would be swap them side to side after checking things over and see if it's repeatable.
 

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The top hat spacers look A Lot like the 6” kit spacers. Measure your tire for actual height so I can do a little math
 
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smoothee

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I got no idea. Something is binding, obviously, but the big question is what.....Again obvious statement there. Honestly, if you can, I would rip that whole thing apart starting with the drivers side which is the potentially problematic side. At least with the struts out you can make sure they both fully extend and check them for any signs of obvious issues. Than it's just process of elimination checking the front end for what it is that's binding. If everything seems like it's not binding I second the thought the struts wiped. Only way to really confirm would be swap them side to side after checking things over and see if it's repeatable.
A good time to check them out when I pull everything apart to check the CV's and touch up the suspension I guess. Can nearly throw up thinking about doing that lol. I do have my old 5100's that I could throw in for ***** and giggles. What I don't get is how the pass side front is higher than the rear. It definitely wasn't like that before.
The top hat spacers look A Lot like the 6” kit spacers. Measure your tire for actual height so I can do a little math
That would be a big coincidence I think, but I guess stranger things have happened.
Front tires 32.5" at 34psi. Which I find strange since they're 315/70R17's...
 

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A good time to check them out when I pull everything apart to check the CV's and touch up the suspension I guess. Can nearly throw up thinking about doing that lol. I do have my old 5100's that I could throw in for ***** and giggles. What I don't get is how the pass side front is higher than the rear. It definitely wasn't like that before.

That would be a big coincidence I think, but I guess stranger things have happened.
Front tires 32.5" at 34psi. Which I find strange since they're 315/70R17's...
Do you have the part number for your 6112's (Do you still have the box?)
 
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Quick_Shifter

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@smoothee Your truck is a regular cab so the clip on your billsteins in position 4 is netting you 2". I would lower them to the lowest notch and that will net you .8" for starters. While you have the front end apart inspect your half shafts, front diff drop brackets, etc. and DO NOT! tighten any bolts until the truck is sitting back on its wheels.(Under its own weight) I would even loosen the lower control arm alignment bolts just to ensure none of the bushings are binding and youll need an alignment anyway. Pull apart the coils and make sure the struts are working as they should, compress them and make sure you dont hear or see any oil coming out. Dont forget to mark indexing points so you can clock everything back to the way it was. Follow the torque specs pinned at the top of the 4th gen lifted section and the BDS instructions
 
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