Ghost_RAM
Senior Member
@2010 Infantry Vet See this post, so maybe there is hope. @jawzs2 was successful in accomplishing some of your list.
https://www.ramforum.com/posts/1849920/
https://www.ramforum.com/posts/1849920/
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I honestly don't believe so but I cannot say with 100% certainty. All of those are located in the BCM and with the drop down menu there are clear listings as low as 2013. However, I know a 2012 connected successfully but his functionality is different. Maybe he will chime in and lend some advice. I do know the BCM when connecting to Alfa will determine the year of the vehicle and connect to it accordingly.
Will AlfaODB allow you to change the electric fan parameters? As in change what temp it comes on?
I'm curious about this too Larry.
@2010 Infantry Vet See this post, so maybe there is hope. @jawzs2 was successful in accomplishing some of your list.
https://www.ramforum.com/posts/1849920/
Alpha fixed something for me. I had an issue start a few weeks ago that my drivers side heat would not get hot. Luke warm at best. I went into the hvac cm and did a calibration test. It tested all the flapper doors and also the right and left temp sensors. It showed that everything passed. So I fired it up and went for a drive. low and behold, drivers side heats up like it should again. I was not looking forward to pulling the dash. Might be worth a try if someone is having a similar issue.
lol what, there was like a 75+ page thread about a owner pursuing lemon law since his heated seats didnt stay on long enough, ultimately his lemon law was thrown out but interesting alfa has a way to calibrate and check the sensors on these heated seats.
I have adjusted the levels with Alfa but have yet to burn through a tank to see if the setting actually made any real changes. About to top off tomorrow sometime, that should give me an idea if my settings changes actually worked.Has anyone adjusted the low fuel warning? I think my truck currently has a 6+ gallon "reserve".
I have adjusted the levels with Alfa but have yet to burn through a tank to see if the setting actually made any real changes. About to top off tomorrow sometime, that should give me an idea if my settings changes actually worked.
Has anyone found a setting for the remote start shutdown timer. It runs for 15 mins, would be nice to extend that.
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default was 91%, changed to 98%. Think the low level was 8% and I dropped to whatever the minimum was; without looking I think it was 6%.What was your factory setting and what did you change it to?
I'm using mx+. Seems to work fine but I'm just getting started with this. I was able to set fogs to led and do light tasting. Still waiting on a blank key for my 18.
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I thought the MX+ was the same as the MX except it adds support for iPhone, iPad, Apple Watch. None of which are supported with AlphOBD. Please set me straight on this. Lol.I'm wondering the same thing. I was thinking about buying the MX+ as well. Link: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JFRFJG...&pd_rd_r=517e4205-02f6-11e9-9a1f-612069dec60e
I need cliff notes of this, a lil confused, if i currently dont do this "swap/change" then my LEDS will burn out more easily? Because they are running higher voltage right - the ones for actual turn signal. And DRL is supposed to be a lower voltage?I finally went back and changed my DRL to "dedicated" on my Laramie. The "dedicated" is not as bright as the turn signal settings. That should help preserve the life of the LEDS. I missed this setting though:
I will go fix that tomorrow as I could see some flickering in the LEDs from the PWM driver.
- LED Dedicated DRL Present: Not set
On another note, I saw that I missed the license plate LED setting and I could see the bulb flicker on camera. Setting it to LED got rid of the flicker.
So a little more confirmation that one of the things that the LED settings changes is a constant output instead of a PWM output.
This has me thinking. Could I get the Diode Dynamics LED boards and wire them up to use the "dedicated" drl output for the white LEDs? Might need to email them and ask some questions as this would be an awesome way to get the white LED DRLs without having to wire in extra modules to do it. And the other question would be if the dedicated DRL circuit is used to drive the turn signals when the lights are on to dim them as that would change whether this would be feasible as I would still want the lights to be amber at night.