- Joined
- Jan 5, 2011
- Posts
- 12,236
- Reaction score
- 26,048
- Ram Year
- 2016
- Engine
- hemi 5.7
Cool! Thanks hemi 395 !
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Glad my post helped. I have done the repair to more than one battery while it was connected, no problems. I didn't perma-install mine because I was using it on six different vehicles/Gens/machines.@rule18 I got the Noco Genius 5 installed, thanks for posting about it.
Have you done a desulfate while the battery is hooked up to the truck? It doesn't say in the owners manual if it's OK to do while hooked up to the truck or not. I read online it can potentially fry some modules because ot pulses high voltage as part of the process...
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Yeah RL 0w20, I wanted to see if it helped with piston slap....You have 0w20 in there now?
Thanks for doing that, so no big surprise to me but vii's help piston slap, at least while they are in tact. Also, been saying this but having an additive that is just vii's can be a good option in some situations. Fresh vii's are great for lubrication, and as it has been the golden egg will be when they, whoever they is, create the self healing vii.Yeah RL 0w20, I wanted to see if it helped with piston slap....
Yeah RL 0w20, I wanted to see if it helped with piston slap....
Wow, you got that out with an extractor! I've heard horror stories of them breaking off inside the drilled out bolt.....You should definitively give Mobil 1 FS 0W-40 a shot. It kept my HEMI spotless before switching to Red Line, and I haven't been that long on Red Line and can't say that it's that different, if any than the Mobil 1 FS 0W-40. I just fixed the exhaust manifold bolt and valve cover gasket. I put a brand new Mopar manifold and all new bolts. Fun jobs...
I think that the reason why the bolts snap is that they are not all equally torqued from the factory, and it allows the manifold to warp. At least, that's one reason. On my truck, some were really tight, and some were really loose, and I followed the torque sequence backward when I remove the old manifold.
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Yeah RL 0w20, I wanted to see if it helped with piston slap....
im looking forward seeing the BlackstoneImma change 5W-30 to 0W-30 this week, having just returned from deer camp towing the UTV and supplies through the driftless hilly region of NW Wisconsin. Gonna send a UOA to Blackstone also - it's just shy of 5,000 mile OCI.
check out the blackstone thread, best thread for hemi uoa's anywhere.im looking forward seeing the Blackstone
Wow, I am way to much of a chicken ******* to drill mine out. So we weld a nut on the broken studsYou should definitively give Mobil 1 FS 0W-40 a shot. It kept my HEMI spotless before switching to Red Line, and I haven't been that long on Red Line and can't say that it's that different, if any than the Mobil 1 FS 0W-40. I just fixed the exhaust manifold bolt and valve cover gasket. I put a brand new Mopar manifold and all new bolts. Fun jobs...
I think that the reason why the bolts snap is that they are not all equally torqued from the factory, and it allows the manifold to warp. At least, that's one reason. On my truck, some were really tight, and some were really loose, and I followed the torque sequence backward when I remove the old manifold.
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I am curious to hear how you like the 0W-30, especially cold starts.Imma change 5W-30 to 0W-30 this week, having just returned from deer camp towing the UTV and supplies through the driftless hilly region of NW Wisconsin. Gonna send a UOA to Blackstone also - it's just shy of 5,000 mile OCI.
I dont know anything about lspi but i do believe schaeffers formula is lspi friendly and is also high in molySo I might change my oil strategy away from Redline. I've been hearing more knock out of my engine than I care to, and after looking around it appears there is something called "lspi" or "low speed pre ignition" that might be ocurring in my engine, and oil might be a factor in this (among other factors).
Since RL is not API SN Plus certified... where do I go to try something different next oil change?
Amsoil SS 5w-30? Maybe with lubeguard?
I'm completely useless in this area, somebody please help me out here!
Red Line Oil in general doesn't have any issues with LSPI, however, they skip engine sequence testing if that means anything to you. Red Line does a lot of their own in-house and at the track testing, and might miss things. Look up TomNJ on the oil forum, he used to work for Hatco, who supplied Red Line Oil with Esters. He knows the former owners personally and says that some of his best memories are when he hung out and did business with them. TomNJ said that Red Line always tried to make the best oil they could, no matter the cost. He also said that they don't do proper engine sequencing tests. Take that for what it's worth, but I doubt that Red Line would put out a bad product. I use it with no issues, but I also had very good experiences with other lubes like Mobil 1, Castrol, Pennzoil, and Quaker State.So I might change my oil strategy away from Redline. I've been hearing more knock out of my engine than I care to, and after looking around it appears there is something called "lspi" or "low speed pre ignition" that might be ocurring in my engine, and oil might be a factor in this (among other factors).
Since RL is not API SN Plus certified... where do I go to try something different next oil change?
Amsoil SS 5w-30? Maybe with lubeguard?
I'm completely useless in this area, somebody please help me out here!
lspi will only happen in di turbo's not hemis, it happens because they "inject" fuel from the rail and wait for spark, if there is a deposit like calcium it can ignite before the spark, explosion happens on wrong part of the stroke, it doesnt happen with traditionally fuel injected engines that inject fuel and spark at same time.
You could always give that Valvoline extended protection” a try. I ran that in my 2021 Ram from the first oil change on and she was whisper quiet with it. And of course that was the 5W30. I seem to recall the Moly in it was around 300 PPM. It did tick a couple times on the factory 5W20 swill but not on the Valvoline. You might consider trying it without the Lubegard initially and then add it later on if she ticks any. It’s certainly worth a shot considering how cheap it is.So I might change my oil strategy away from Redline. I've been hearing more knock out of my engine than I care to, and after looking around it appears there is something called "lspi" or "low speed pre ignition" that might be ocurring in my engine, and oil might be a factor in this (among other factors).
Since RL is not API SN Plus certified... where do I go to try something different next oil change?
Amsoil SS 5w-30? Maybe with lubeguard?
I'm completely useless in this area, somebody please help me out here!