Synthetic Oil

[huntergreen]

Cool! Thanks hemi 395 !

 

[rule18]

@rule18 I got the Noco Genius 5 installed, thanks for posting about it.

Have you done a desulfate while the battery is hooked up to the truck? It doesn't say in the owners manual if it's OK to do while hooked up to the truck or not. I read online it can potentially fry some modules because ot pulses high voltage as part of the process...
View attachment 478312

Glad my post helped. I have done the repair to more than one battery while it was connected, no problems. I didn't perma-install mine because I was using it on six different vehicles/Gens/machines.

Now, before I have to formally warn myself about hijacking a thread, back to our regularly scheduled Synthetic Oil discussion...

 

[Hemi395]

It was around freezing this morning when I started the truck up, piston slap sounds exactly the same as RL 5w30 with RL 0w20 in it. So it really does look like, based on my experience anyway, that RL 0w30 is the winter Hemi Honey...

 

[Burla]

You have 0w20 in there now?

 

[Hemi395]

You have 0w20 in there now?

Yeah RL 0w20, I wanted to see if it helped with piston slap....

 

[Burla]

Yeah RL 0w20, I wanted to see if it helped with piston slap....

Thanks for doing that, so no big surprise to me but vii's help piston slap, at least while they are in tact. Also, been saying this but having an additive that is just vii's can be a good option in some situations. Fresh vii's are great for lubrication, and as it has been the golden egg will be when they, whoever they is, create the self healing vii.

Many more vii's in 0w30 then 0w20. Which is what Corey is saying guys, his 0w30 was better then 0w20 in a hemi for piston slap. The only reason for this, vii's.


.

 

[Rod Knock]

Yeah RL 0w20, I wanted to see if it helped with piston slap....

You should definitively give Mobil 1 FS 0W-40 a shot. It kept my HEMI spotless before switching to Red Line, and I haven't been that long on Red Line and can't say that it's that different, if any than the Mobil 1 FS 0W-40. I just fixed the exhaust manifold bolt and valve cover gasket. I put a brand new Mopar manifold and all new bolts. Fun jobs...

I think that the reason why the bolts snap is that they are not all equally torqued from the factory, and it allows the manifold to warp. At least, that's one reason. On my truck, some were really tight, and some were really loose, and I followed the torque sequence backward when I remove the old manifold.

 

[Hemi395]

You should definitively give Mobil 1 FS 0W-40 a shot. It kept my HEMI spotless before switching to Red Line, and I haven't been that long on Red Line and can't say that it's that different, if any than the Mobil 1 FS 0W-40. I just fixed the exhaust manifold bolt and valve cover gasket. I put a brand new Mopar manifold and all new bolts. Fun jobs...

I think that the reason why the bolts snap is that they are not all equally torqued from the factory, and it allows the manifold to warp. At least, that's one reason. On my truck, some were really tight, and some were really loose, and I followed the torque sequence backward when I remove the old manifold.

View attachment 478395 View attachment 478396 View attachment 478397 View attachment 478398

Wow, you got that out with an extractor! I've heard horror stories of them breaking off inside the drilled out bolt.....

Something to consider, when I went from shorties back to manifolds I retorqued all the bolts again after a couple heat cycles. A few on each side had either loosened up or the gasket had compressed slightly. I read on a GM forum a while ago that can help with the manifold warping and therefore prevent the bolts from breaking. Time will tell if that's true.

 

[HEMIMANN]

Yeah RL 0w20, I wanted to see if it helped with piston slap....

Imma change 5W-30 to 0W-30 this week, having just returned from deer camp towing the UTV and supplies through the driftless hilly region of NW Wisconsin. Gonna send a UOA to Blackstone also - it's just shy of 5,000 mile OCI.

 

[Sash]

Imma change 5W-30 to 0W-30 this week, having just returned from deer camp towing the UTV and supplies through the driftless hilly region of NW Wisconsin. Gonna send a UOA to Blackstone also - it's just shy of 5,000 mile OCI.

im looking forward seeing the Blackstone

 

[Burla]

im looking forward seeing the Blackstone

check out the blackstone thread, best thread for hemi uoa's anywhere.

 

[Stefan N]

You should definitively give Mobil 1 FS 0W-40 a shot. It kept my HEMI spotless before switching to Red Line, and I haven't been that long on Red Line and can't say that it's that different, if any than the Mobil 1 FS 0W-40. I just fixed the exhaust manifold bolt and valve cover gasket. I put a brand new Mopar manifold and all new bolts. Fun jobs...

I think that the reason why the bolts snap is that they are not all equally torqued from the factory, and it allows the manifold to warp. At least, that's one reason. On my truck, some were really tight, and some were really loose, and I followed the torque sequence backward when I remove the old manifold.

View attachment 478395 View attachment 478396 View attachment 478397 View attachment 478398

Wow, I am way to much of a chicken ******* to drill mine out. So we weld a nut on the broken studs

 

[Stefan N]

Summit has 10"%" on Redline if you count $10 summitbucks as money

"

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Earn $10 in Summit Bucks for every $100 spent on Red Line products!"

Red Line Synthetic Oil at Summit Racing

For Red Line Synthetic Oil motor oil, gear and assembly lube, power steering fluid, and automotive fluid additives, Summit Racing has the lowest prices anywhere.

www.summitracing.com

 

[BLUKTY2]

Imma change 5W-30 to 0W-30 this week, having just returned from deer camp towing the UTV and supplies through the driftless hilly region of NW Wisconsin. Gonna send a UOA to Blackstone also - it's just shy of 5,000 mile OCI.

I am curious to hear how you like the 0W-30, especially cold starts.

I am in a cold climate too and am currently using Amsoil SS 0W-40 after using PUP 0W-40 for the fist 38,000 miles or so. No complaints on either oil, and I have been using Amsoil off and on for decades and it has always performed well for me.

But with the big viscosity swing in a 0W-40, I question whether it is a true "0W" and/or a true "40" (regardless of the manufacturer). Hope that makes sense.....

So I have contemplated doing what you are trying; switching to a 0W-30 in the fall and 5W-30 in the spring. I generally change my oil twice a year anyway, even though that might be much earlier than necessary with Amsoil. But I work my truck hard (it carries a 3,600# camper always) and I don't plan on pushing my OCI's.

 

[ramffml]

So I might change my oil strategy away from Redline. I've been hearing more knock out of my engine than I care to, and after looking around it appears there is something called "lspi" or "low speed pre ignition" that might be ocurring in my engine, and oil might be a factor in this (among other factors).

Since RL is not API SN Plus certified... where do I go to try something different next oil change?

Amsoil SS 5w-30? Maybe with lubeguard?

I'm completely useless in this area, somebody please help me out here!

 

[Travis8352]

So I might change my oil strategy away from Redline. I've been hearing more knock out of my engine than I care to, and after looking around it appears there is something called "lspi" or "low speed pre ignition" that might be ocurring in my engine, and oil might be a factor in this (among other factors).

Since RL is not API SN Plus certified... where do I go to try something different next oil change?

Amsoil SS 5w-30? Maybe with lubeguard?

I'm completely useless in this area, somebody please help me out here!

I dont know anything about lspi but i do believe schaeffers formula is lspi friendly and is also high in moly

 

[Burla]

lspi will only happen in di turbo's not hemis, it happens because they "inject" fuel from the rail and wait for spark, if there is a deposit like calcium it can ignite before the spark, explosion happens on wrong part of the stroke, it doesnt happen with traditionally fuel injected engines that inject fuel and spark at same time.

 

[Rod Knock]

So I might change my oil strategy away from Redline. I've been hearing more knock out of my engine than I care to, and after looking around it appears there is something called "lspi" or "low speed pre ignition" that might be ocurring in my engine, and oil might be a factor in this (among other factors).

Since RL is not API SN Plus certified... where do I go to try something different next oil change?

Amsoil SS 5w-30? Maybe with lubeguard?

I'm completely useless in this area, somebody please help me out here!

Red Line Oil in general doesn't have any issues with LSPI, however, they skip engine sequence testing if that means anything to you. Red Line does a lot of their own in-house and at the track testing, and might miss things. Look up TomNJ on the oil forum, he used to work for Hatco, who supplied Red Line Oil with Esters. He knows the former owners personally and says that some of his best memories are when he hung out and did business with them. TomNJ said that Red Line always tried to make the best oil they could, no matter the cost. He also said that they don't do proper engine sequencing tests. Take that for what it's worth, but I doubt that Red Line would put out a bad product. I use it with no issues, but I also had very good experiences with other lubes like Mobil 1, Castrol, Pennzoil, and Quaker State.

AMSOIL on the other side are sticklers for obeying standards and doing engine sequencing tests. They work closely with Lubrizol to ensure that their oils are up to the latest specs. They don't just write "recommended for", they actually make sure it works.

The bottom line is that your HEMI won't suffer as long as you use a decent lubricant and do regular OCIs.

 

[HEMIMANN]

lspi will only happen in di turbo's not hemis, it happens because they "inject" fuel from the rail and wait for spark, if there is a deposit like calcium it can ignite before the spark, explosion happens on wrong part of the stroke, it doesnt happen with traditionally fuel injected engines that inject fuel and spark at same time.

Occurs during engine transition from lean burn mode to rich burn mode, such as hard acceleration from a stop. Of course, if engine makers wouldn't be cheap and built the engines correctly with the direct fuel injector used ONLY during lean burn mode, and add another injector in the intake manifold used ONLY during rich burn mode, we wouldn't be here discussing it.

<end rant>

 

[tidefan1967]

So I might change my oil strategy away from Redline. I've been hearing more knock out of my engine than I care to, and after looking around it appears there is something called "lspi" or "low speed pre ignition" that might be ocurring in my engine, and oil might be a factor in this (among other factors).

Since RL is not API SN Plus certified... where do I go to try something different next oil change?

Amsoil SS 5w-30? Maybe with lubeguard?

I'm completely useless in this area, somebody please help me out here!

You could always give that Valvoline extended protection” a try. I ran that in my 2021 Ram from the first oil change on and she was whisper quiet with it. And of course that was the 5W30. I seem to recall the Moly in it was around 300 PPM. It did tick a couple times on the factory 5W20 swill but not on the Valvoline. You might consider trying it without the Lubegard initially and then add it later on if she ticks any. It’s certainly worth a shot considering how cheap it is.