KKBB
Senior Member
Definitely...wish our hemis had numbers like that.Those low wear levels are incredible compared to our hemis.
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Definitely...wish our hemis had numbers like that.Those low wear levels are incredible compared to our hemis.
That additive versus the blue biotech. Mos2 is powdered moly in suspension and lubegard biotech is oil soluble moly. I don't know why it is trending up, obviously not a large enough increase to sweat it out, but if it keeps going that way you might consider some changes. If you seen the video's we once had on mos2 gelling up the sump versus biotech, I doubt you would run it. Some guy ran two tests and the powder moly not only sticks to the pan but it stick to itself. mos2 is old dinosaur tech, nobody runs it in oil anymore, not even liqui moly house oil, they all use MoDTC as in lubegard type moly.It's whatever is in this. All my cars get a can of this at each oil change.
Well what got me onto the forums is reading up on the hemi tick and mine has some kind of tick louder on one side on and off. It is not an exhaust leak from bolts. when i noticed it i did all this oil research but what seems to cure mine is driving hard and getting RPMs high after a good drive is quiets down. I seen youtube videos of BMW owners curing lifter tick holding RPMs at 3000 for 3 minutes.
I just use autostick manual mode and hold RPMs at 3-4k 15 seconds while driving and it quiets tick.
Tick has been there coming and going for 3 years, How high would iron be if there was a cam/lifter problem?
I only drive 2-3k a year so a 5k OCI would be over 2 years and nobody recommends even going a year without changing it
I go two years 10k miles w/o issue proved by uoa's, but I'm not telling you to do that or even get a uoa, if you are gonna stay on a 2k interval, maybe just forget uoa's.Well what got me onto the forums is reading up on the hemi tick and mine has some kind of tick louder on one side on and off. It is not an exhaust leak from bolts. when i noticed it i did all this oil research but what seems to cure mine is driving hard and getting RPMs high after a good drive is quiets down. I seen youtube videos of BMW owners curing lifter tick holding RPMs at 3000 for 3 minutes.
I just use autostick manual mode and hold RPMs at 3-4k 15 seconds while driving and it quiets tick.
Tick has been there coming and going for 3 years, How high would iron be if there was a cam/lifter problem?
I only drive 2-3k a year so a 5k OCI would be over 2 years and nobody recommends even going a year without changing it
What do you think about the high revs thing? I did not see it mentioned before with hemi tick.
Last fall it was ticking so loud i thought it was the end of the engine so i thought i would try the high rev thing.
After some spirited driving and getting higher revs before shifting i was blown away by how quiet it was.
sometimes the tick starts to come back after some time of normal driving so i give it the rev treatment again and it goes quiet again. This is why i did a second UOI to see if there was any change from the hard driving.
What kind of tick do i have if it is fixed by Italian tuneup?
Engine Ticking Free Fix Must Watch For ALL Car Owners NO LIQUIDS USED Hydraulic Lifter Tick
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This BMW sounds like hemi tick and fixed with high revs
The Tick is deep and mysteriousMy pair of pennies:
There are several reasons why the hemi might tick. The classic "hemi tick" is caused by lifter failure, meaning the lifter has actually stopped rolling and is smashing up and down on the cam. If this is why your hemi is ticking, revving it like a ***** will just mean your lifters are smashing even more often for no reason, causing further damage, and accelerating your way to a new engine.
If your tick is caused by bleed down, higher RPMs will bring oil/pressure back to that area quicker in terms of time, but again considering that the sound is due to a temporary lack of lubrication, I doubt that that is better for the engine then letting it warm up by a minute of idling.
If your tick is caused by broken manifold bolts or some sort of exhaust leak, higher RPMs will cause your engine to heat up sooner, causing your exhaust to expand and close the gap thereby reducing or eliminating the tick.
But as you can probably tell by now, I'm not a fan of revving the snot out of an engine when its cold. Bring it up to operating temp before you work it hard, it will last longer.
In short: never trust a beemer owner with anything important in your life. Have you seen how they drive??
The Tick is deep and mysterious
Some more info from mine:
It does not tick on startup, it sometimes comes after fully warmed up and driving a while
I always let the engine run 2-5 min before even shifting out of park and drive easy till it gets to full operating temperature.
when i notice it starting to tick, some high rev shifts quiet it down again and it has been doing this for 3 years and Blackstone analysis says there is no abnormal wear so what do you make of it?
So the 0w40 is now in 30 weight to be expected.1st oil analysis on this vehicle. 65K miles 5K OCI's since new. Most oil changes PUP 0W40 with WIX XP filter. A few early on (still 5K OCI) oil changes by the FCA Engineering Center as this was my Company PE vehicle before I bought it after 1 year. Based on the P/N the Eng. Center used 0W40 PP and Mopar filter. Truck used mostly for towing and truck camper usage for the past 45K miles. Magnetic plug was very clean FYI. Comments please. TIAView attachment 501442