Hemifever tune or bolt ons first?

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BrbGettinCoffee
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I was doing some browsing and was wondering how to tell if an aftermarket muffler is diy bolt on kit? My pops has all the tools and I can turn a wrench fine enough. Since the moes mbrp tips are bolt on it would be even better to save install price. If I mess up the shop is literally 2 minutes away. If it's bolt on and the stock piping is dual 2.25" out would I want 2.5 outlets in the muffler so it slips over clamps?
 

danielmid

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I was doing some browsing and was wondering how to tell if an aftermarket muffler is diy bolt on kit? My pops has all the tools and I can turn a wrench fine enough. Since the moes mbrp tips are bolt on it would be even better to save install price. If I mess up the shop is literally 2 minutes away. If it's bolt on and the stock piping is dual 2.25" out would I want 2.5 outlets in the muffler so it slips over clamps?
If you want to do bolt on kit, I recommend the Mufflex, that's what I did and it went on perfect.

They offer different muffler lengths for different sound levels, up to and including a full delete.

 
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It looks like the mufflex are about the same price it would be for the magnaflow + labor from the local shop which had me initially creating the post. Maybe I am comparing apples to oranges but I thought mufflex was magnaflows bolt on versions so threw me off it was more. Maybe I am mistaken on that though.
 

danielmid

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It looks like the mufflex are about the same price it would be for the magnaflow + labor from the local shop which had me initially creating the post. Maybe I am comparing apples to oranges but I thought mufflex was magnaflows bolt on versions so threw me off it was more. Maybe I am mistaken on that though.
Mufflex is a third party, benefits are bolt in yourself and it keeps the stainless pipes, no worry about muffler shop welds and rusting.
 

Bandit517

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I was doing some browsing and was wondering how to tell if an aftermarket muffler is diy bolt on kit? My pops has all the tools and I can turn a wrench fine enough. Since the moes mbrp tips are bolt on it would be even better to save install price. If I mess up the shop is literally 2 minutes away. If it's bolt on and the stock piping is dual 2.25" out would I want 2.5 outlets in the muffler so it slips over clamps?
Direct fit compared to "universal" mufflers change in price and install difficulty. If you plan to do the install yourself and have limited tools/experience I'd recommend a direct fit muffler. I had a Carven progressive on my truck before my cam/headers install and it was direct fit and sounded great. After my cam and header install it was way too loud for my liking. But since I have a welder and years of experience I went with a universal Flowmaster FlowFX muffler. Being a universal it was a little more troubling to fit. But since I was in a "trial and error" stage of exhaust, spending $50 on a universal muffler compared to $350 for the direct fit was a no brainer to me.


Universal

Direct Fit
 
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Yeah I actually just had nick@gotexhaust send over the invoice for an 18" magnaflow, 5"mbrp tips and the magnaflow y pipe. After looking up how much the longtubes are I decided I am going to go the route of shortys instead. I think with the shortys, 6.4l manifold, exhaust setup, small cam and tune I will be totally satisfied. I have plenty of tools as I am loving at the parents house until I graduate college which is happening in 2 weeks. The parts above are for a grad present to myself actually. I don't have a welder and the MBRP tips need an adapter from 2.5" to 4" which I can not find anywhere for the life of me. So going to go to the local shop I teust and see what they can do and the damage. I am hoping around $200-$250 for installing the y pipe, muffler and tips, hopefully that is accurate or not too far off. Thanks for the detailed suggestion though! I am very new to truck performance since only ever owned civics which are a bit different.
 

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That 18" Magnaflow should sound great. The FlowFX I used has a 14" body (20" overall length). I also put a 24" glasspack in front of it to help dampen sound. But I think all that really did was add drone to the cab which I don't care for. Now that I know the muffler does what I want I'll be going to my buddy that has a tubing bender and redoing my entire exhaust from the headers to the tips.
 

Wild one

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That 18" Magnaflow should sound great. The FlowFX I used has a 14" body (20" overall length). I also put a 24" glasspack in front of it to help dampen sound. But I think all that really did was add drone to the cab which I don't care for. Now that I know the muffler does what I want I'll be going to my buddy that has a tubing bender and redoing my entire exhaust from the headers to the tips.
Just a heads up,most tubing benders do "crush" bends,which are about the worst bends you can have in an exhaust system,you might want to look into a builders kit from Magnaflow etc.,as it's all mandrel bends and you can fab up your own exhaust at home in an afternoon
 

Bandit517

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The one he has doesn't "wrinkle" the tubing like a lot do. It's not a mandrel but it's damn close. He did the turbo back on my old Volvo S60R and it was better than factory fit.

His bends like the first pic. Not the garbage in the second pic.

wlk-41437_xl.jpgwlk-51029_xl.jpg
 
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Yeah, I will have to discuss with the shop to make sure they can do mandrel bends for the new y pipe. I heard that if they just end up crushing the ones going into it, it would basically be taking 1 step forward and 2 steps backward lol. I am also hoping they can fab up the 2.5" to 4" adapter to fit the MBRP tips since they look so great to me. I think I read they may have to take off the resonators but going with the 18" Magnaflow I think will be fine for me. I want it loud, just not muffler delete loud but close is okay.
 

sking2001

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The Hemifever tune is amazing! My truck shifts a lot better. They will work with you on what you specifically want (mds delete, quicker shifting, and etc). I put a new thermostat in a long with the tune. Save your money on a cold air intake. In my opinion the pedal commander with a tune gives me everything I wanted in this truck! It allows you to change the throttle response on demand. I run a lift with 37" tires and this truck hauls ass. When I want it to.....
 
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Yeah im conflicted with the pedal commander or banks pedal monster ir none. I agree the pedal stock feels mushy for sure. I have a muffler and some tips coming in to be installed and going to see if I can spare the 300 to try it out or just save up for the tune first. Thanks for the input though!
 

apache07x

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Hello, I own a 16 ram 1500 so I would do the pcm swap package with hemifever. Truck is all stock besides a 6inch lift and tires. I dont have a warrenty anymore and was wondering if I should do some bolt ons before the custom tune? I just want to do aftermarket muffler, vararam intake, pedal commander and maybe a few other things like TB and what not. I know that retuning is typically free after purchase or a small fee which is why im not sure which to do first. Thanks!
I've got an 11 and I did a macs TB, S&B cold air intake and a Flowmaster 40 series muffler in conjunction with a hemifever tune. Still have some throttle lag unless I really punch it but that's mainly do to traction control on most if not all modern vehicles. Anyways the tune definitely makes a difference but not sure if the other items do a lot. Also likes gas a lot now if I have a heavy foot but on the highway hauling a trailer it seems to have improved milage.
 

rosco11

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Hello, I own a 16 ram 1500 so I would do the pcm swap package with hemifever. Truck is all stock besides a 6inch lift and tires. I dont have a warrenty anymore and was wondering if I should do some bolt ons before the custom tune? I just want to do aftermarket muffler, vararam intake, pedal commander and maybe a few other things like TB and what not. I know that retuning is typically free after purchase or a small fee which is why im not sure which to do first. Thanks!
None of the above. If you want to drive it every day that is. You will be logging and sending that log to Hemifeaver every few days for over a month to get the tune right for your vehicle. There is no such thing as a caned tune for any particular mod. You do it over and over until you find something that works. EVERY time you change anything.

As well, most of these tunes that get you a little more power just mess with the air/fuel ratio and the timing. You end up using premium fuel because of the more aggressive timing and it will run a little rich, gas smell, at driving conditions. Where as a stock tune will adjust itself to whatever fuel you put in it.

You will get worse gas millage. The stock tune gives you the best balance between power/fuel ecomony/fuel type already. NO ONE does it better. Only different sacrifices for minor gains.

Put lower gears in it. You will instantly get more torque throughout rpm range without affecting anything else other than adjustting speedometer. Leave the rest alone if you want to drive it every day.

I am still oddly courious why someone would want to make a 6000lb truck fast. A car with 150 less hp that weighs 2000 lbs less will still blow it away. In the end, you spend ton of money to make something do what it was not designed to do for a purpose it was not created for. In addition to spending more time working on it than driving it.

Buy dance lessons. Significatly cheaper in time and money and will produce much better results than trying to impress some guy you do not know, because the girl sitting next to him could care less about your loud truck. If she ever sees it. Maybe she will spot you leaning over the hood in the driveway working on it as she is going to a club with the guy who took dance lessons.

If you want something fast, buy something fast from the factory and drive it every day. No one does it better than the factory. Buy a used Hellcat instead of dumping money and time into a truck that costs just as much and will NEVER be able to touch it.
 
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@apache07x - Thanks for the input! I didnt think about the traction control playing a part in all of that, kind of makes sense logically but I only know so much. I don't mind lower mpg I have about 13.8mpg around city on the exaggerated cluster so thats fine.

@rosco11 - Yeah I am just going for smiles per gallons. I came from a 2000 civic si which is a meager 160hp so the truck definitely feels way faster already. I enjoy the truck a lot for its usefulness and definitely am doing the exhaust/tips for a better sound since stock is so quiet. I am going to skip the cai besides just the bottom half of the 6.4l and the airduct/filter since everyone suggests stock really is great. I heard that you would want higher gears if you lift the vehicle and 3.92 from the stock setup seems to be fine from what ive read. I don't mind sending logs at all though since I won't be changing out parts very often. After doing the exhaust and that intake upgrade part it will be awhile before I can save up for a tune and even later for the headers ect.

Luckily for me my girlfriend is a latina and can dance her heels off so she has taught me a few things for the fiestas LOL. Thanks for the input and I get what your saying, by no means do I disagree but Ill be owning the vehicle a long time and just going to put a little money into it to make it perform a bit better.
 

Wild one

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None of the above. If you want to drive it every day that is. You will be logging and sending that log to Hemifeaver every few days for over a month to get the tune right for your vehicle. There is no such thing as a caned tune for any particular mod. You do it over and over until you find something that works. EVERY time you change anything.

As well, most of these tunes that get you a little more power just mess with the air/fuel ratio and the timing. You end up using premium fuel because of the more aggressive timing and it will run a little rich, gas smell, at driving conditions. Where as a stock tune will adjust itself to whatever fuel you put in it.

You will get worse gas millage. The stock tune gives you the best balance between power/fuel ecomony/fuel type already. NO ONE does it better. Only different sacrifices for minor gains.

Put lower gears in it. You will instantly get more torque throughout rpm range without affecting anything else other than adjustting speedometer. Leave the rest alone if you want to drive it every day.

I am still oddly courious why someone would want to make a 6000lb truck fast. A car with 150 less hp that weighs 2000 lbs less will still blow it away. In the end, you spend ton of money to make something do what it was not designed to do for a purpose it was not created for. In addition to spending more time working on it than driving it.

Buy dance lessons. Significatly cheaper in time and money and will produce much better results than trying to impress some guy you do not know, because the girl sitting next to him could care less about your loud truck. If she ever sees it. Maybe she will spot you leaning over the hood in the driveway working on it as she is going to a club with the guy who took dance lessons.

If you want something fast, buy something fast from the factory and drive it every day. No one does it better than the factory. Buy a used Hellcat instead of dumping money and time into a truck that costs just as much and will NEVER be able to touch it.
My little 4X4 gives Hellcats fits at the track,and gets way more attention then most Hellcats do at the track. A fast truck is a total sleeper,and will garner a fair bit of attention,especially after you put a hurting on the car in the other lane.
It also tops out at around 155 mph,which will surprise the hell out of alot of cars .Nothing wrong with modding a truck,done right you'll have a hell'va sleeper,that isn't all that hard on parts,no differant then a modded car
 
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Not to beat a dead horse but I was wondering if I spend the money on the diablo i3 with pcm swap, would the canned tunes be decent for like up to 6 monthish? I was checking funds and think I can spare to get one after the muffler/tips install happening soon but if the canned tunes are really not noticeable from stock than ill just hold off and maybe buy a oil catch can or maybe the efan mod in the time being.
 
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Yeah I can't seem to get a response from hemifever if I am able to buy a used pcm as long as it is the same as mine for the pcm swap. So I doubt ill dish out the 1k+ for being able to keep my stock one. The reason I don't want to go with HP is that there is no canned tune so it is basically all in which I can't do just yet. The diablo I could run the canned tunes for a while like 6months-1year before spending the 300 for bolt on mod and trans tune
 
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