Spare tire problem

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winedawg

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I recently bought a 2021 1500 lonestar. It didn't come with a kit for the jack so I bought one online. The lug wrench fits the nuts but it won't fit in the slot. The plastic chrome wheel covers makes it so the wrench won't slide into the slot. Anyone else with
this problem or do I have the wrong lug wrench. Thanks in advance
 

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Burla

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Get the proper lug nut (6 wall) and a breaker bar for emergency, which also allows you to use large impact wrench with torque sticks for garage work. It helps to have a extender such small pipe for leverage if lugs are hard to remove. Cheap places like northern tool usually have sets that will have 4 large lugs cheap, one of them fits ram. I will look it up later if you are interested. I picked it up dirt cheap which is why it is in the truck, have no idea what they do for now in this crazy world.

Those are oem wheel covers? Do they pop off?
 

RamDiver

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For many years, the OEM lug nut wrench and jack included with most vehicles has been a complete joke. They're not designed to be used, they're covering the manufacturers a$$ that they have supplied sufficient tools not to leave you stranded.

I carry a breaker bar with a deep 6-point socket, no extension pipes are required. :cool:

Have you ever tried to jack up a truck with the included toy jacks? They're especially useless on a gravel shoulder but not too much better on the pavement unless you have a lowered truck.

I carry a 12-ton bottle jack because it will easily provide the required lift while it doesn't take up too much space in the backseat area.

My first truck was a tiny wanna-be truck, an early '80s 2wd Nissan Kingcab, that came equipped with a toy jack. I kept a trolley jack in a plastic case, stashed under the back seat. I spent more time in the city back then and the trolley jack worked well on pavement.

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winedawg

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Sorta. I'm afraid I might damage them. I don't think there're intended to come.off
 

turkeybird56

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Sorta. I'm afraid I might damage them. I don't think there're intended to come.off
Get a HD Breaker Bar, go 1/2" not 3/8". Pick up a Deep Well 22 MM "6" point socket, and a small extension for your breaker bar and U should be fine. The lugs should be 22 MM on RAM.
 
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turkeybird56

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delete
 

Burla

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Sorta. I'm afraid I might damage them. I don't think there're intended to come.off
I would as well, been there done that. I popped of a set and ruined the plastic only to reveal they ruined the rims as well. Of course if this happens, you can always paint them black, but who knows what is under there? TBH, I'd go get some aftermarket rims and new tires, 17's if it is a 4x4? I am lazy, I just got rebel knock offs, easy because they use factory offset. In this crazy world I see ebay still showing these under 700 bucks, and you can skin them all in under 2g's. Something to consider. Nothing surprises me anymore but plastic skins on oem ram's is a new low imo.
 

RamDiver

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Sorta. I'm afraid I might damage them. I don't think there're intended to come.off

It is difficult to determine from the picture if that's a cover or a coating but, can you see a separation of the cover near the tire?

If you can slip your fingertips or fingernails between the cover and the rim, near the edge of the tire, chances are it's just a cover. It could be just lighting or a camera angle but the cover on the hub looks to be separate and a slightly different colour than the rim cover, which again makes me think it's just a cover as opposed to a coating.

After many years of changing seasonal wheels on my former GF's cars and removing and installing wheel covers, I can confirm it is a PITA but after repeated experience, it's not that bad.

I broke a couple when I first started but not after doing it for years. AFAIC, the real secret is the installation. Don't use a rubber mallet, I found that firmly pressing into place and using light taps with the base of my fist worked best.

If you hit it too hard, it will break. Just repeatedly and gently tap it into place around the full circumference, several times around. :cool:

.
 

Wild one

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I recently bought a 2021 1500 lonestar. It didn't come with a kit for the jack so I bought one online. The lug wrench fits the nuts but it won't fit in the slot. The plastic chrome wheel covers makes it so the wrench won't slide into the slot. Anyone else with
this problem or do I have the wrong lug wrench. Thanks in advance
You'll need a thinwall 6 point deep socket,get a 22mm and a 23mm,as they should be 22,but after you've taken them on and off a couple times,the chrome cover goes to hell and a 22 won't fit,or remove the factory nuts and spring for a set of 14mm gorilla nuts.You can even buy a double sided thinwall socket that's a 1/2 size,one end is 22mm and the other end is 22.5mm,they're handy as hell to have,i have one of them in all my vehicles,and the 1/2 size comes in handy after the chrome caps on the nuts have started to go to hell


 

RamDiver

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The one thing that isn't yet clear in my mind, is whether the actual size of that nut a 22 or 23mm.

Aftermarket wheel nuts come in many different sizes and maybe that is the issue. The former owner had a thin-walled socket that fit into that tiny clearance where most standard-sized sockets will never fit.

To the OP, are you able to accurately confirm the lug nut size?

.
 

turkeybird56

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He has a 2021, should be a 22, but heck, what do I know. WHY I told him to get out his lil metric set and confirm before buying.
 

rzr6-4

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I carry a breaker bar with a deep 6-point socket, no extension pipes are required. :cool:

Have you ever tried to jack up a truck with the included toy jacks? They're especially useless on a gravel shoulder but not too much better on the pavement unless you have a lowered truck.

I carry a 12-ton bottle jack because it will easily provide the required lift while it doesn't take up too much space in the backseat area.

When I bought mine the jack was missing all together so I have since started using the breaker bar - bottle jack combo like yours. Has come in handy a couple times.
 

RamDiver

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When I bought mine the jack was missing all together so I have since started using the breaker bar - bottle jack combo like yours. Has come in handy a couple times.

Having it missing is likely a great bonus feature for you because you were forced to obtain a practical solution ASAP, whereas many of us could just procrastinate replacing the POS toys that were included. :cool:

I decided to lower the spare in the laneway one day and then attempted to use the toy jack. I immediately threw a trolly jack in the box until I located a good bottle jack.

That's a good challenge to all Ram truck owners.

Try to lift the front and rear of your truck with the toy jack in a controlled environment and then try to imagine your comfort level using it in gravel or dirt at the side of the road. :cool:

.

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T. Anders

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It is difficult to determine from the picture if that's a cover or a coating but, can you see a separation of the cover near the tire?

If you can slip your fingertips or fingernails between the cover and the rim, near the edge of the tire, chances are it's just a cover. It could be just lighting or a camera angle but the cover on the hub looks to be separate and a slightly different colour than the rim cover, which again makes me think it's just a cover as opposed to a coating.

After many years of changing seasonal wheels on my former GF's cars and removing and installing wheel covers, I can confirm it is a PITA but after repeated experience, it's not that bad.

I broke a couple when I first started but not after doing it for years. AFAIC, the real secret is the installation. Don't use a rubber mallet, I found that firmly pressing into place and using light taps with the base of my fist worked best.

If you hit it too hard, it will break. Just repeatedly and gently tap it into place around the full circumference, several times around. :cool:

.
These are factory chrome clad rims and not hub caps. They are epoxied to the wheels and aren't intended to be removed.
 

RamDiver

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These are factory chrome clad rims and not hub caps. They are epoxied to the wheels and aren't intended to be removed.

Wow!

So the only item yet to confirm, is the wheel nut size in that picture.

Are they the standard 22mm or has someone installed aftermarket 23mm and owned one of those fancy thin walled sockets that Rick posted a link for?

.
 

mdc1990zr1

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Wow!

So the only item yet to confirm, is the wheel nut size in that picture.

Are they the standard 22mm or has someone installed aftermarket 23mm and owned one of those fancy thin walled sockets that Rick posted a link for?

.
I took the stupid capped OEM lug nuts off with my 22mm socket and replaced them and the OEM Mopar locking/keyed lug nots off and replaced them with a chromed steel lug nut from McGard. Bonus, they are made in USA!!!
 

RamDiver

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I took the stupid capped OEM lug nuts off with my 22mm socket and replaced them and the OEM Mopar locking/keyed lug nots off and replaced them with a chromed steel lug nut from McGard. Bonus, they are made in USA!!!

Did your's look like they had the same low clearance levels, the same as the OP's?

.
 

Burla

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"chrome clad" wheels are just plastic

There are definitely disadvantages and the biggest one is that the whole design of the face of the wheel is in fact made of PLASTIC. This plastic cover is virtually impossible to repair or replace. Unlike a standard hubcap that just clips on and can be replaced this clad cover is bonded to the underlying aluminum wheel structure.

With traditionally chromed wheels if you ran a little too close to a curb you could bring it to a shop and they could usually grind it back out and rechrome it to look just like new. Although the process was never cheap it was significantly cheaper than buying a whole new wheel.

The cladded cover cannot be replaced or repaired. And although it’s a fairly durable plastic, it can still be scrapped, cracked, or shattered by an unexpected curb; and these wheels are not cheap to replace.

And one more they didnt mention, you cant put lug wrenches on them, lol?
 
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