What did you do with your 4th Gen this week?

Stefan N · Feb 25, 2024

aah

Black-Wolf said:
I have a ball joint press... the problem is getting the ball joint shaft end out of the steering knuckle. The driveshaft is in the way of trying to use a regular press. The separators I have borrowed or bought are all too small for the size ball joint and knuckle thickness - measured it and it's 2.75" from the top side of where the ball joint shaft goes in the knuckle, to the bottom of the ball joint shaft. The normal ball joint presses only reach a maximum width of 2" or 2.375". The cheap Chinese crap I bought on shamazon might work because despite what the ad says, the center body of it has 3.3" of depth/clearance, and I think I can finagle it into position and use constant pressure and striking to free the joint. If not - I'm going to have to cut it out somehow. Here's the link to the product: Amazon
View attachment 538293

Yeah, I got it mixed up in my head or something

Good luck!

BenWade · Feb 25, 2024

Black-Wolf said:
Not the issue. Still would have to get the ball joint to separate from the steering knuckle - and THAT's where I'm stuck at - it won't let go. You still can't replace the LCAs until you get the ball joint out of the knuckle.

Ahhh... I gotcha. Since you've already yelled and cursed at it you don't have many other options. If the press doesn't work you might have to remove the knuckle and LCA from the vehicle together so you can get to it more easily.

18CrewDually · Feb 25, 2024

Black-Wolf said:
Welp... I attempted to replace the lower ball joint on the passenger side. I replaced the driver's side one a couple of weeks ago, but weather and other commitments have prevented me from doing the passenger side. Today - I had no issues UNTIL I got to where I was trying to separate the steering knuckle from the hub... WHOEVER designed this needs to be put out to pasture. The ball joint is apparently corrosion welded to the aluminum knuckle, and I can't get it out. I've tried several different pry tools, a ball joint separator (which didn't fit - it only goes to 2" wide and I need one that can go at least 2-3/4" wide to fit over it and the knuckle), and pretty much cursed it, yelled at it, smacked it with three different size hammers, used a pickle fork on it, lubed it with penetrating oil, and cursed and yelled at it some more. It refuses to budge. I've given up for the moment. I have a better ball joint separator arriving tomorrow EVENING - but I don't think I'll have time to work the problem before it gets dark... Needless to say, I am beyond frustrated. I do NOT have a blow torch to try heating it and letting it cool while beating it with a hammer. As of right now, my truck is not driveable, even if I put everything back together, the ball joint is completely shot and needs to be replaced. Some pics for entertainment of the little B*STRD.
View attachment 538254 View attachment 538256 View attachment 538255 View attachment 538257

Put a jack under the balljoint with some tension. POINT #2
Then strike a blow with a hammer at POINT #1.
Couple shots should pop it out. If not a little heat around point #1 helps.

Black-Wolf · Feb 25, 2024

BenWade said:
Ahhh... I gotcha. Since you've already yelled and cursed at it you don't have many other options. If the press doesn't work you might have to remove the knuckle and LCA from the vehicle together so you can get to it more easily.

Plan is if all else fails, I'll use a steel hacksaw to cut the ball joint on the inside (at the top of the hole that the ball joint goes in). I have ordered a new knuckle, which will arrive late tomorrow - so, add another day (Monday and Tuesday) I have to take off work - not a huge deal overall, but I like to save my days for vacations and concerts! LOL. I think this ball joint is so corroded inside the knuckle, the only way I'll be able to save the knuckle is to drill out the ball joint shaft once I get the knuckle off. I don't think the ball joint press from shamazon is going to do the job - and it hasn't arrived yet... Meanwhile, I'll just start working on my light bars while I wait...

Black-Wolf · Feb 25, 2024

18CrewDually said:
Put a jack under the balljoint with some tension. POINT #2
Then strike a blow with a hammer at POINT #1.
Couple shots should pop it out. If not a little heat around point #1 helps.

View attachment 538300

THAT DID IT! YES! Took a LOT of blows, but it just let go finally! Thanks!

PA Ram · Feb 25, 2024

18CrewDually said:
Put a jack under the balljoint with some tension. POINT #2
Then strike a blow with a hammer at POINT #1.
Couple shots should pop it out. If not a little heat around point #1 helps.

View attachment 538300

This is definitely the way to go!

marine0311 · Feb 25, 2024

I have to admit, this Ram has improved both mine and my wife’s lifestyle. We are both disabled. It takes time and energy to get my wife in any vehicle. However a truck is the easiest to say the least. A mobility van would not fit our lifestyle. Especially if you don’t have a .
Today what would normally be a mundane trip to pick up medication by myself. Turned into a leisurely Sunday drive with my wife. After washing and waxing off we went. Headed no where out in the country, with the sun shining thru the moonroof. Every aggravation left behind in a small cloud of dust. Almost feels as good as “Group Therapy” at the firearm range. The smile on our faces and the rumble of a Hemi. Does it get any better than this.

Black-Wolf · Feb 25, 2024

Hemi395 said:
Let me know if this works, I'm ordering it if it does

So, I didn't test it out. 1) I was able to free the stuck ball joint per @18CrewDually's suggestion and get it out - before the actual tool arrived - of course, it arrived about 20 minutes AFTER I got things going! LOL! 2) The part arrived and it was USED. I.E.: CLEARLY USED. I didn't even bother to try it out. I am returning it. HOWEVER, that being said, it is in good shape, and I considered keeping it - but not going to. I can not reward this company for doing this. 3) That being said, I DID measure it, and IT WILL work for the task needed if I were to run into this again. It is beefy enough that it shouldn't break during use, and I measured 3.25" of gap between the base and the top, so it would handle the 2.75" well enough... just wish that it was actually new, rather than used, or that the company selling it had said it was "used". I'd have accepted that given that it appeared to be in decent shape.

Hemi395 · Feb 25, 2024

18CrewDually said:
Put a jack under the balljoint with some tension. POINT #2
Then strike a blow with a hammer at POINT #1.
Couple shots should pop it out. If not a little heat around point #1 helps.

View attachment 538300

Thanks, looks like this way is a winner!

Hemi395 · Feb 25, 2024

Black-Wolf said:
So, I didn't test it out. 1) I was able to free the stuck ball joint per @18CrewDually's suggestion and get it out - before the actual tool arrived - of course, it arrived about 20 minutes AFTER I got things going! LOL! 2) The part arrived and it was USED. I.E.: CLEARLY USED. I didn't even bother to try it out. I am returning it. HOWEVER, that being said, it is in good shape, and I considered keeping it - but not going to. I can not reward this company for doing this. 3) That being said, I DID measure it, and IT WILL work for the task needed if I were to run into this again. It is beefy enough that it shouldn't break during use, and I measured 3.25" of gap between the base and the top, so it would handle the 2.75" well enough... just wish that it was actually new, rather than used, or that the company selling it had said it was "used". I'd have accepted that given that it appeared to be in decent shape.

Well thats BS. I agree, return it just on principle. I'd leave a negative review as well.

So using the above method, how much beating on the knuckle did you have to do? I'm always hesitant to take a hammer to the aluminum knuckle after seeing several pictures of them cracked....

18CrewDually · Feb 25, 2024

Hemi395 said:
Well thats BS. I agree, return it just on principle. I'd leave a negative review as well.

So using the above method, how much beating on the knuckle did you have to do? I'm always hesitant to take a hammer to the aluminum knuckle after seeing several pictures of them cracked....

If it doesn't pop loose upto a point you're not comfortable, don't forget a little heat on that will expand and help with release. And I'm not talking blow torch melting it, as little as a hot air gun will help. It's upto what you're comfortable with. I have no problem waving around the Mapp gas torch to put a little heat into it but I know how to handle it. Remember you're just heating enough to expand, not melt it. Lol

aszumilo · Feb 25, 2024

After replacing the plugs and coils yesterday, took a trip out to the Pick-A-Part yard to find a rim for a spare. Found a 17" steel rim, should be good enough for a spare. Also found some front tow hooks. 10 bucks each. Just need to get some bolts for the rear bushing mount.

Also found a pair off of a 1999 1500. Picked those up just in case someone is looking for any.

Truck runs a whole lot better. Throttle response is much improved, misfires are gone, and the TPMS light no longer comes on during acceleration. Amazing what fresh plugs can do versus 140k mile copper plugs.

Didn't get to the transmission today, like I hoped. Next weekend, I guess.

metalchewy · Feb 25, 2024

Replaced the battery yesterday. Interstate battery, 18 months old.

Cost me the gas to drop off the one with the bad cell and pick up the replacement.

Stefan N · Feb 26, 2024

Hemi395 said:
Well thats BS. I agree, return it just on principle. I'd leave a negative review as well.

So using the above method, how much beating on the knuckle did you have to do? I'm always hesitant to take a hammer to the aluminum knuckle after seeing several pictures of them cracked....

My disc brake was the hardest to get of, I hade to take out the big sh*t

Black-Wolf · Feb 26, 2024

Hemi395 said:
Well thats BS. I agree, return it just on principle. I'd leave a negative review as well.

So using the above method, how much beating on the knuckle did you have to do? I'm always hesitant to take a hammer to the aluminum knuckle after seeing several pictures of them cracked....

It took about 10x hits with a standard 16oz. hammer. I didn't have to hit super hard either. I figured worst case, I'd need to order a new knuckle - Amazon had a Dorman for under $200 and it would have been here today - I ordered it in time for it to get here today but then canceled it 15 minutes later when I got the ball joint free.

PA Ram · Feb 26, 2024

Stefan N said:
My disc brake was the hardest to get of, I hade to take out the big sh*t

View attachment 538388

Agree with the sledge for the rotors. Tried a regular hammer and it did nothing. One hit from the sledge and it came off.

Hemi395 · Feb 26, 2024

Stefan N said:
My disc brake was the hardest to get of, I hade to take out the big sh*t

View attachment 538388

So you were able to get it off?

Next time try hitting it between the lug studs, sounds counter productive but it helps break up the rust holding the rotor on...

Stefan N · Feb 27, 2024

Hemi395 said:
So you were able to get it off?

Next time try hitting it between the lug studs, sounds counter productive but it helps break up the rust holding the rotor on...

Yes, a little tap with the big one and it was loose. With the small one I used all my strength and nothing

Sean J Blackburn · Feb 28, 2024

Changed out the cab vents and third brake light gasket because I found water under the back seat. Luckily the vents are cheap and easy to replace.

Sean J Blackburn · Feb 28, 2024

Pics, looks like they changed the design of the cab vents since 2010.

What did you do with your 4th Gen this week?

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