09 Ram 1500 No Controls at driver door master switch

[ctwalton15]

Alright, I've been trying to research and figure this out on my own but I'm at a dead end and this is driving me crazy. I've got a 2009 Dodge Ram 1500 5.7l Crew Cab SLT 156k Miles. I've had this issue for the past 6 ish months. Suddenly, for a reason that I can't seem to find is that my switch panel in my drivers door to control the windows, locks, and mirrors just essentially quit working with using or without using them.

Things I've done to try and diagnose the issue.


Obviously checked the fuses and do not have any blown (haven't checked for power to the fuse until I just thought of it now)

I've bought a used switch panel to hook into the truck to test and see if it worked, it didn't fix the windows at the time but I waited for them to start working to see if the switch panel was working and all the functions did work so I ended up returning it

The last thing I figured it could've been was the driver's door module so I purchased one from dodge and have been waiting and waiting and waiting for it to quit working again which it did yesterday here on my lunch break, so I went home after work and swapped it in and isn't fixing the issue. I will say that I did noticed a little bit of contamination on the connector that plugs into the door module for the mirror controls but none for the other connectors.

I unbolted where the wires run to door jamb and make a couple 90 bends in the door to protect the wirings, tried tugging on each wire and couldn't feel a loose wire they all look like they are in pretty okay shape and doesn't look like they've been tampered with by the old owners or anything.

I was thinking I could possibly put power to the window motor to atleast get the window up but there isn't a whole lot of room when its bolted in the door to put an external power and ground at it, can't even see the pins

Like I said just pretty much at a dead end and cannot get the window rolled back up at this point.

 

[ctwalton15]

Wonderful well I figured this out a little bit ago. Something dumb and just completely overlooked. Just one of those things I suppose.

So the driver side kick panel there is a ground bolted to the body, there are possibly 5 or 6 ground wires all black and green with a weird crimp, not one I’ve seen before but looks like a very bad design. Anyways the wire was just sitting on the outside of the connector and that’s where my issue was. Kinda wish I saw this before I posted it but hopefully it may help someone in the future so that’s all I can wish for.

 

[JohnUSA]

This was Joe's job at 4:50 on Friday afternoon...

 

[huntergreen]

Wonderful well I figured this out a little bit ago. Something dumb and just completely overlooked. Just one of those things I suppose.

So the driver side kick panel there is a ground bolted to the body, there are possibly 5 or 6 ground wires all black and green with a weird crimp, not one I’ve seen before but looks like a very bad design. Anyways the wire was just sitting on the outside of the connector and that’s where my issue was. Kinda wish I saw this before I posted it but hopefully it may help someone in the future so that’s all I can wish for.

Thanks for getting back with the fix.

 

[Badger 13]

I have a 2013 and have been fighting this issue since April. Tried a new OEM master door switch and it worked until I drove the truck for a few miles, and then it stopped working. Took it to the local dealer out of desperation. It was diagnosed to have a bad door module. This didn't fix the problem, so one for the passenger door was ordered, and this didn't work either. The dealership opened up a "Star" case, and it seems like all the experts are unable to find the problem. This has been going on for almost 6 months at the dealer, and they keep telling me that they will fix it. FCA customer service has been involved, but I feel like it is just lip service to make me feel good. Since nothing works from the drivers door controls, windows, locks, mirrors, the truck has only been used to go the dealer and back home. Not only a major inconvenience, but a safety concern in my opinion. They won't or can't tell me what I do if they can't fix it... Talk about frustration... I'm glad you got yours fixed.

 

[ctwalton15]

I have a 2013 and have been fighting this issue since April. Tried a new OEM master door switch and it worked until I drove the truck for a few miles, and then it stopped working. Took it to the local dealer out of desperation. It was diagnosed to have a bad door module. This didn't fix the problem, so one for the passenger door was ordered, and this didn't work either. The dealership opened up a "Star" case, and it seems like all the experts are unable to find the problem. This has been going on for almost 6 months at the dealer, and they keep telling me that they will fix it. FCA customer service has been involved, but I feel like it is just lip service to make me feel good. Since nothing works from the drivers door controls, windows, locks, mirrors, the truck has only been used to go the dealer and back home. Not only a major inconvenience, but a safety concern in my opinion. They won't or can't tell me what I do if they can't fix it... Talk about frustration... I'm glad you got yours fixed.

Yea pretty much exact same boat. Until I found this ground that was loose. ****** connector from the factory but as soon as I touched it my interior lights turned on because it knew my door was open at that point.

 

[Badger 13]

Thanks for the info. I would like to think that the "best" tech for the job, and all the "Star" information would have thought of it, but I will mention it when and if they call me for the next appointment. I know they don't seem to care what the customer suggest, so I will check that myself.

 

[fourpoint7]

Ctwalton15, I have a 2011 ram 1500 4.7Lt, had only 76,000 thousand miles at the time. About a year after I bought the truck, my drivers door power switch stopped working. I sorta went into panic mode. I looked up a new switch from the 3 popular auto parts stores. I almost crapped my pants when I seen what they wanted for the OEM power switch -$219.00 dollars plus tax. Theirs no way I could afford that so I looked on ebay. Found a aftermarket switch for $24.83 free shipping. So I bought it, installed it and I got all my functions back - ( windows, locks, mirrors. A week goes by and the switch stops working. So I pry up the switch with my finger nails - ( the switch sits loose in the door) First thing I do is unplug the wiring harness to the switch then plug it back in. Yep, that did it and the switch is back working again. Bad part is every time it stops working, I have to pry it out, unplug it, plug it back in and it works again. Been doing this now for about a year and a half. Not sure why it does that. I just read on here that it could be a loose ground. Or I was thinking "Did I they send me a bad switch"? And to put insult to injury, now, the buttons fall off the switch if I pull up on them too hard. I almost regret buying a dodge, just out of nowhere the top of the back wheel wells started forming rust bubbles -(From Chrysler using China metal.) I took the truck to a guy that did body work. He charged me $500. to cut out the rust on top of the back bed wheel wells. 6 months later the rust bubbles came back so he didn't fix it right. I looked into a used bed, rust free good ones start at $2,400. hundred. In my opinion, their is no usa truck manufacturer that makes good trucks anymore. And who wants a Japanese truck? Thanks for letting me vent, I feel a little better now-lol.

 

[ctwalton15]

Ctwalton15, I have a 2011 ram 1500 4.7Lt, had only 76,000 thousand miles at the time. About a year after I bought the truck, my drivers door power switch stopped working. I sorta went into panic mode. I looked up a new switch from the 3 popular auto parts stores. I almost crapped my pants when I seen what they wanted for the OEM power switch -$219.00 dollars plus tax. Theirs no way I could afford that so I looked on ebay. Found a aftermarket switch for $24.83 free shipping. So I bought it, installed it and I got all my functions back - ( windows, locks, mirrors. A week goes by and the switch stops working. So I pry up the switch with my finger nails - ( the switch sits loose in the door) First thing I do is unplug the wiring harness to the switch then plug it back in. Yep, that did it and the switch is back working again. Bad part is every time it stops working, I have to pry it out, unplug it, plug it back in and it works again. Been doing this now for about a year and a half. Not sure why it does that. I just read on here that it could be a loose ground. Or I was thinking "Did I they send me a bad switch"? And to put insult to injury, now, the buttons fall off the switch if I pull up on them too hard. I almost regret buying a dodge, just out of nowhere the top of the back wheel wells started forming rust bubbles -(From Chrysler using China metal.) I took the truck to a guy that did body work. He charged me $500. to cut out the rust on top of the back bed wheel wells. 6 months later the rust bubbles came back so he didn't fix it right. I looked into a used bed, rust free good ones start at $2,400. hundred. In my opinion, their is no usa truck manufacturer that makes good trucks anymore. And who wants a Japanese truck? Thanks for letting me vent, I feel a little better now-lol.

Have you tried replacing the Drivers door module? Its kind off odd that you have to unplug and replug in the harness. I do wonder if there may be some corrosion in that connector or if you simply have a loose prong on one of the connectors. I will say my door module was $145.00 list from dodge and my company gets a little discount.

I do know that we have replaced one of the switch panels before in the past with a oem dodge one. I will say that possibly that off brand switch panel could be giving you an issue electrical wise possibly because it could be a cheap-o switch panel, especially if your saying that the switches are popping off. Kind of odd. If I were you, i'm not sure if you have any Junkyards around you or some place that sells used parts. There is a place near me called Midway auto parts, they pull the parts and I think they would ship them to you. They are used oem parts. Cheaper then $200 but I think there still a little over $120


I also haven't had any issues with my body rusting. My truck was built in late 08 I believe in mexico is where they were built. But I will say my truck spent all of its life in Texas then arizona until 2019 when we first bought it. Now I do have a little rust hole forming on the frame but again its small and I believe it is where one of the pre drilled holes are in the bottom of the frame rail for a tow hook point.

 

[GTyankee]

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[smittyd174]

Well there's alot going in this post , from door switches to fenders rusting . When it comes to intermittent electrical issues start simple , fuses , connections,grounds and broken wires and work your way up . My 10 had a broken wire and it looked fine till it was tested.
Now for the rusty 1/4 panel . Rams usually only rust early in 2 places . Rear wheel well area and front fenders around the hemi emblems .
The rear area is an issue because 3 panels meet and they use foam to seal the seams . Trying a new solution on my 22 classic , remove fender liners and tail lights and undercoat the crap out of it .Now the crazy part drilled 2 -1/2 holes on inside of each wheel well on the vertical face just where it starts to curve down front and back and undercoat in there , it's a big void in there and it actually comes out the rear stake holder . Plug holes can hardly see them .
The front fenders have a sound pad that will hold moisture and cause rust . In the spring going to remove fender liners and see if I can peel them off , if not will coat the crap out of them.