2014 brake issues

[elkskins_j]

a few months ago, whenever i went to stop, especially when i was moving pretty fast, my truck would shake when i applied the brakes. i could feel it pulsing in the pedal as well. it would shake pretty good all the way up to a complete stop. so i started replacing parts. the front rotors and pads, i just put on a little over a year ago, so i replaced the rear rotors and pads and front pads as well. didnt fix it. so i always suspected my front left caliper as sticking so i figured i would replace it. i replaced the caliper and put a new rotor on the driver front side. seeing just a week ago i replaced the pads, i figured they were still ok, and i was right. the right front rotor was still in perfect condition when i put the pads on a week ago, so i didnt bother with it...... just ran it down the road and still having some issues. doesnt seem as bad though. thoughts ???

 

[jws123]

Did you check for runout on the pass side rotor? Even though it looks good it can be warped the **** rotors they sell now from auto parts stores ect don't rly last. Mine are all screwed up and they are only 1.5rs old also check to make sure nothing else is loose tie rods, ball joints, hub bearing ect.

 

[elkskins_j]

i didnt , i just replaced wheel bearings as well on both sides

 

[Jeepwalker]

Go to Harbor Freight and get an inexpensive dial indicator and magnetic base. You might need to put the magnetic base on something solid or if you have a heavy piece of metal you can put on a 5 gal bucket (1/2 filled with water for weight). Get some large regular nuts (for bolts) ...large enough to fit over your wheel lugs. 5/8" or 3/4" should work. Remove the wheel, slide the nuts over the wheel lugs and tighten your truck's lug nuts (they don't need to be super tight). then check the rotors for run-out.

The ideal run-out is 0.0000". Rotate the rotor with a ratchet. I wouldn't run anything that was more than .001", but the spec is probably .003. But to me that's too much. Make sure the area behind the rotor is clean and free of debris. If you replaced the hubs, I would put the dial indicator on the outer hub-face too. I bought a hub at OReilly's (not the cheap one either) and it was .006 at the hub face out of the box! I took it back and bought a factory OEM hub from RockAuto. You could never get a rotor to run 'true' with a hub like that.

Then mark the rotor and the hub and if you need, rotate the rotor clockwise on the hub, re-tighten the lug nuts and test again. If need be, rotate again and again. If the hub is 'true' and the rotor can't be positioned to run true, then get a different rotor.

Then also make sure the area where the caliper slides, s clean of rust and sliding surfaces are lightly greased. Test drive and verify with an IR thermometer (or your hand) the wheel temperatures. Any 'warm' wheel the caliper is probably draging.

 

[elkskins_j]

thanks for your reply. seems a little much for me but ill look into it. i didnt replace both hubs myself. one was a Fleet from Napa and the other was put on at a garage. not sure which brand