2014 Hemi Heater Core replacement

[KrisIL]

Question. Bought the AC gauge from harbor freight. My problem is the couplers are marked high and low pressure and in my truck they fit on opposite. High on low and low on high. I always thought larger diameter pipe is high side. Was I wrong?

 

[metalchewy]

High should in front by the fender and low by the firewall. Maybe they put the ends on opposite sides. Should be able to switch them if they are.

 

[KrisIL]

High should in front by the fender and low by the firewall. Maybe they put the ends on opposite sides. Should be able to switch them if they are.

Blue is low red is high

The pipe that blue is mounted on is larger diameter then the red

 

[jawzs2]

Question. Bought the AC gauge from harbor freight. My problem is the couplers are marked high and low pressure and in my truck they fit on opposite. High on low and low on high. I always thought larger diameter pipe is high side. Was I wrong?

The larger diameter is low, (suction), side.

 

[KrisIL]

The larger diameter is low, (suction), side.

So I was just wrong. I thought larger is high pressure. Thank you. I was about to return that thing

 

[Sherman Bird]

Question. Bought the AC gauge from harbor freight. My problem is the couplers are marked high and low pressure and in my truck they fit on opposite. High on low and low on high. I always thought larger diameter pipe is high side. Was I wrong?

This post here scares me for your safety. It's obvious that you are tackling a function that is beyond your skill level, is HIGHLY dangerous and CAN be FATAL. I'd STRONGLY urge you to go to an accredited shop and have them evacuate the refrigerant. It boils at nearly 40 degrees below zero and, when released accidentally into the atmosphere, it expands at an exponential rate WAY faster than you have time to react, thus, it CAN freeze your eyeballs out and CAN AND WILL kill you if you inhale it. It replaces the oxygen in your lungs and you are a DEAD MAN at that point.

 

[KrisIL]

This post here scares me for your safety. It's obvious that you are tackling a function that is beyond your skill level, is HIGHLY dangerous and CAN be FATAL. I'd STRONGLY urge you to go to an accredited shop and have them evacuate the refrigerant. It boils at nearly 40 degrees below zero and, when released accidentally into the atmosphere, it expands at an exponential rate WAY faster than you have time to react, thus, it CAN freeze your eyeballs out and CAN AND WILL kill you if you inhale it. It replaces the oxygen in your lungs and you are a DEAD MAN at that point.

Identifying which port is which is EASY for someone who is trained. YOU are not, as is obvious by your statement of self doubt!

I do understand the risk. But if you follow simple instructions you can't screw it up. Once you have everything connected it's a closed system. You just have to make sure you connect it right and follow instructions step by step. Obviously you drive with it everyday. If it's so dangerous how many people was killed while being in accident because of it?

 

[Sherman Bird]

I do understand the risk. But if you follow simple instructions you can't screw it up. Once you have everything connected

 

[KrisIL]

I've known one guy who was killed by unforeseen sudden pressure spike in the refrigeration system on a car. The can he was holding in his hand exploded and sent shrapnel deep into his brain.
Sadly, it didn't kill him right away. He languished in a State facility for almost a year, in diapers and unable to care for himself in the most basic ways.
A second man whom I worked with had the same unfortunate explosion while working on his F-150 years later. By this time, refrigerant cans were/are redesigned and made with the base designed to blow out in a straight line, instead of exploding ala a hand grenade. In his case, the refrigerant and can bottom, both in close proximity to his person, flew right by the left side of his head, narrowly missing. The can bottom tore through the hood like it was butter; and the pressure wave FROM that event perforated his eardrum, and the refrigerant narrowly missed his eyes. I was in another building of that repair facility, and that explosion was extremely loud in my building!
I've survived 2 sudden releases in my professional career, and but for PPE, would be blind. and might have lost a couple of digits.

"Simple instructions"?

That sounds to me like product defect or operator error. Accidents happened even to the professionals. You don't need that few thousand dollars machine to do it yourself. That's why they sell the cans at store.

 

[Hagar1]

Bought this truck not long time ago. Have a sweet smell inside the cab when heat is on. I suspect heater core. Will try to take care of the problem before freezing temperatures. Never done this before and I heard it's a slow process but not so hard. Anyone done this and could give me some advice? I will check youtube for some videos but maybe someone here will point me to the right one that you used to work on your heater core? Can I download a step by step write up somewhere?

If it isn't leaking but not throwing a lot of heat, it can be flushed. We used to disconnect the hoses and then use a pressure washer to flush the heater core. It worked like a charm.
Note, usually a leaking core will cause a mist to form on the windshield while in the defrost mode.

 

[KrisIL]

I just want to report back. I did this job. Never done it before and followed step by step video so it probably took me longer then normal. Total time around 4-5 hours. But like I said with going back and forward to the video. One mistake I made is to not disconnect the coolant hoses inside the engine bay. I remembered some guy video where he said it was much easier to do it after you pull the box out a little and then disconnect them from the inside. Don't do it you will get coolant on your floor. I clamped both hoses and still got some coolant. Another thing is none of the videos I watched mentioned floor ducts. I didn't realize I had them and those 3 pieces were holding strong. You need to remove seats and fold away the carpet to remove them. I followed the MotorCity Mechanic 4 parts video on how to do it.

 

[metalchewy]

Glad it worked out.

 

[mtofell]

Reported model years range from as early as 2012 up to at least 2022

Did Ram ever admit it was a problem and claim to correct it? If we're seeing less on newer (2023+) engines seems like it could just be a matter of not enough miles/years on the newer trucks yet.

Mine is an interesting case study since I got a replacement engine in late 2022 so 2X the casting sand in my core I would think. Finally clogged up this fall. Honestly, until I had the problem I didn't read all the threads and realize what a common problem it was. I just checked my emails and it looks like I picked my truck up with the new engine in early Nov. 2022 so it would be right on the line if there were some fix or correction around that time.

 

[Burla]

When was the last time ram admitted anything?

 

[mtofell]

When was the last time ram admitted anything?

Good point.... I should have known better than to ask.