4th Gen Official Timeslip/Discussion Thread

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

Wild one

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 17, 2016
Posts
14,850
Reaction score
26,542
Ram Year
14 Sport
Engine
5.7
Nitto 555s
What pressure are you running in them.I run right around 20/21 psi in the Mickey's on both my truck which runs DA corrected 11.70's and the wifes 1320 ,which runs DA corrected 10.80's
 

Noob2Trucks

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 31, 2021
Posts
102
Reaction score
117
Location
Arizona
Ram Year
2020
Engine
5.7L Hemi
What pressure are you running in them.I run right around 20/21 psi in the Mickey's on both my truck which runs DA corrected 11.70's and the wifes 1320 ,which runs DA corrected 10.80's
I can't remember now, but I'm going back out to the track in a couple weeks. Itd a no prep 1/8 mile event, but I'll that out.
 

Wild one

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 17, 2016
Posts
14,850
Reaction score
26,542
Ram Year
14 Sport
Engine
5.7
I can't remember now, but I'm going back out to the track in a couple weeks. Itd a no prep 1/8 mile event, but I'll that out.
I'd start with about 25 psi,if you have traction issues,go down a couple psi till you hook.The higher the pressure you can get away with,while still hooking the better your mph will be,plus the truck won't feel quite as squirrily going through the lights
Are you still running the front swaybar,if you are,i'd pull it off,as it restricts and slows down front end rise,which hinders weight transfer onto the back tires,if nothing else,remove one endlink so it's not tying both front tires together.Another trick is to pump the front tires up to at least 60 or 65 psi while you're at the track,to reduce rolling resistance.Staging deep will usually help your et,but gives you a better chance of turning on the redlight bulb if you're quick on the reaction,while staging shallow will usually give you a higher mph number,and lessens the chance of red lighting,by giving you a couple more inches of rollout before you trip the redlight bulb.
 

Racer9

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 1, 2023
Posts
246
Reaction score
508
Location
Erie PA
Ram Year
2011
Engine
5.7 Hemi
OK, I'll play. Mods in sig, I dropped the rear air pressure to 28#, maybe should have gone more. Truck has 22" wheels, not sure how low I can go with those.
My first run ever with any vehicle;
.8960 --reaction time
2.1259--60 foot
8.6100--594 foot
9.2390--1/8 ET
71.53--mph

2nd run;
1.1449 --rt
2.1220--60'
8.6161--594'
9.2472--1/8
71.31--mph

3rd run; Spun a lot.
.5441--rt
2.3569--60'
9.1860--594'
9.8287--1/8
70.02--mph

4th run; Tow/haul mode, spun a bit.
.8840--rt
2.8207--60'
9.6389--564'
10.2799--1/8
70.20--mph
 

Wild one

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 17, 2016
Posts
14,850
Reaction score
26,542
Ram Year
14 Sport
Engine
5.7
OK, I'll play. Mods in sig, I dropped the rear air pressure to 28#, maybe should have gone more. Truck has 22" wheels, not sure how low I can go with those.
My first run ever with any vehicle;
.8960 --reaction time
2.1259--60 foot
8.6100--594 foot
9.2390--1/8 ET
71.53--mph

2nd run;
1.1449 --rt
2.1220--60'
8.6161--594'
9.2472--1/8
71.31--mph

3rd run; Spun a lot.
.5441--rt
2.3569--60'
9.1860--594'
9.8287--1/8
70.02--mph

4th run; Tow/haul mode, spun a bit.
.8840--rt
2.8207--60'
9.6389--564'
10.2799--1/8
70.20--mph
Those numbers should put you into the mid to high 14's,the mph is a bit slow,but you're 1/8th mile ET numbers aren't to bad.What was the DA like
 

Racer9

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 1, 2023
Posts
246
Reaction score
508
Location
Erie PA
Ram Year
2011
Engine
5.7 Hemi
Not sure about DA, temp was around 72, we are fairly humid in this area. 16510 zip code if anyone knows how to look it up.
 

Wild one

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 17, 2016
Posts
14,850
Reaction score
26,542
Ram Year
14 Sport
Engine
5.7
Not sure about DA, temp was around 72, we are fairly humid in this area. 16510 zip code if anyone knows how to look it up.
I'm not a huge fan of this DA calculator,but punch in your track,and it should come up,then go back to the day and time of your pass to get the DA.This one is always several hundred feet high compared to an actual weather station,but it'll at least give you an idea of the da on your passes.
If your local track uses an app on your phone to give you ,your timeslip,it'll also be listed on the bottom right hand corner of your timeslip on your phone.

 

Wild one

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 17, 2016
Posts
14,850
Reaction score
26,542
Ram Year
14 Sport
Engine
5.7
If I did it right, 91%
I don't think you did it right,lol.It should give you a DA number that's in feet above sealevel,sealevel is considered 0 ft DA. Some tracks will actually register a DA number that's below sea level with the right weather conditions,those are the tracks you want to run on,as they'll give your best timeslip numbers,then there's tracks like my local track that'll be 5,000+ ft DA in the summer,and they suck for getting a decent number.A mile in the air really hurts a time slip, especially a naturally aspirated vehicles time slip :cheers:
 

Racer9

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 1, 2023
Posts
246
Reaction score
508
Location
Erie PA
Ram Year
2011
Engine
5.7 Hemi
OK. I was surprised that my little local track (Lucky Drag City, Wattsburg, Pa.) was in their database, but it's at 684'.
 

Wild one

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 17, 2016
Posts
14,850
Reaction score
26,542
Ram Year
14 Sport
Engine
5.7
OK. I was surprised that my little local track (Lucky Drag City, Wattsburg, Pa.) was in their database, but it's at 684'.
That's actually pretty decent as far as DA goes.The DragTimes calculator is usually on the high side ,but you'd probably still be right around 600ft. Anything under a 1,000ft is good in my opinion,but i also run at the local tracks where it's not uncommon for our DA to be 5,000ft in the summer
 

Racer9

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 1, 2023
Posts
246
Reaction score
508
Location
Erie PA
Ram Year
2011
Engine
5.7 Hemi
Thanks, good to know. Let me ask you this;
If I put a pair of drag tires on it do you think it will hook better and not spin one wheel? LSD, not sure about ratio.
I know about unhooking left front stabilizer, and maybe weighting rear corner, anything else?
I have an IHC drop kit, anything special I can do with the rear springs when I cut them? They say cut the left a little longer to compensate for driver and fuel tank weight.
 

Wild one

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 17, 2016
Posts
14,850
Reaction score
26,542
Ram Year
14 Sport
Engine
5.7
Thanks, good to know. Let me ask you this;
If I put a pair of drag tires on it do you think it will hook better and not spin one wheel? LSD, not sure about ratio.
I know about unhooking left front stabilizer, and maybe weighting rear corner, anything else?
I have an IHC drop kit, anything special I can do with the rear springs when I cut them? They say cut the left a little longer to compensate for driver and fuel tank weight.
If it's still the factory rear diff,and a legit R/T, you'll have a limited slip with 4.10 gears and a higher stall convertor then a standard 2011 truck.
If it's only spinning 1 tire,good chance the limited slip is toast,i went through 2 of the factory limited slips,then bit the bullet and put a True Trac in the rear diff
The biggest thing holding you back are the heavy 22" wheels,dump them for a set of light weight 17" rims and drag radials and you'll probably pick up several tenths.
The old school rule of thumb is,every pound of rotating weight is equal to 4 pounds of static weight,so if you drop a 100 pounds in wheel weight,that's roughly the same as taking 400 lbs out of the trucks weight,and that'll make a noticable differance in your time slips
Unless you're Auto Crossing with the truck,you can remove the front swaybar and never even notice it gone.
I run both my wifes Challenger and my 4X4 with no front swaybar,and even in the mountains,i don't notice the front swaybars missing on either.
You'll have to experiment with cutting the springs,the trucks are designed to sit level when going down a crowned road,not because of the weight of the tank.The engine and transmission are offset to the pass side of the truck a couple inches,which would offset the tanks weight,if it was the tank causing the trucks to lean.Take a look at your floorboards,notice how the pass side footwell is narrower then the drivers side footwell,that's due to the engine and transmission offset,then take a tape measure and measure the engine offset from the fenders and you'll notice how much closer to the pass side it and the transmission sit.
Good chance you'll never get the truck to sit exactly level,because of the designed in factor to compensate for the crown of the road
 
Last edited:

Racer9

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 1, 2023
Posts
246
Reaction score
508
Location
Erie PA
Ram Year
2011
Engine
5.7 Hemi
Fantastic info!!! I'm need to drop the cover and see what's in there.
You reminded me about the engine/trans offset. The Vararam intake feeds off to the right a little to compensate for the offset, so I'll just make the springs the same.
I'll try driving with the swaybar unhooked to see if I notice, that would be a lot of weight off the front!
THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!!
 

Wild one

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 17, 2016
Posts
14,850
Reaction score
26,542
Ram Year
14 Sport
Engine
5.7
Say what lol
The crown in the road surface should be at or near 4%, or ½ in per ft drop on the cross slope each way from centerline. (See example above) In addition, the shape of crown should be a straight line from the centerline to the edge of roadway, not “rounded” or parabolic .
 
Last edited:
Top