Active shutter delete

[buddy guy]

coolant lower, but oil and trans higher? i don't get it. that doesn't seem good?

 

[Wild one]

coolant lower, but oil and trans higher? i don't get it. that doesn't seem good?

I'm guessing there's a noticeable difference in the length of Crazykids drive,or the amount a gas pedal just before the pic's were taken Terry,lol.The harder you drive it,the higher the oil and tranny temp will be,or if the other pics were taken during a shorter drive

 

[buddy guy]

so you think he think he was driving it like he stole it in the higher temp one. lol. yes, putting words in your mouth..hahahaha.

 

[crazykid1994]

coolant lower, but oil and trans higher? i don't get it. that doesn't seem good?

Length of time driving is the reason my oil and trans temps are different. But yes I think my middle picture I had previously accelerated hard on the interstate.

I'm guessing there's a noticeable difference in the length of Crazykids drive,or the amount a gas pedal just before the pic's were taken Terry,lol.The harder you drive it,the higher the oil and tranny temp will be,or if the other pics were taken during a shorter drive

 

[Walt2137]

I sent him a message got no response as of yet

Pls post the info you find out.
I sure dont need shutters in South Mississippi, it feels like 13 months of hot weather and 1 week of semi cold weather.

 

[Pull Ya]

Check with Jason Dauria--he is the Administrator on High Performance Rams on FB. He has a kit designed to let you remove the shutters and prevent a code. I think the kit is under $20.
Jay

OP did Jason ever get back to you?
Jay

 

[azcoyote]

Sorry for the semi hijack. I just bought a 2019 Ram Classic and I was towing over the weekend and noticed the intake sound changed. Thought I would come here to research and found this thread. Is the sound I heard related to this AGS system? I was at a higher cooler altitude as well. I’m wondering why I would want that on my truck given that Arizona is hells backyard in terms of air temperature.

 

[Longhorn1500]

Well, I did the AGS delete today. I used the CFT Performance kit, $5.00 plus $7.00 shipping. As many people said, the instructions are pretty poor, but I was able to figure it out. This kit keeps the AGS motor in tact, so the modification is reversible.

I tow a heavy (9,000 pound) trailer, so keeping the temperatures low is great. I have no numbers yet though.

Before:


After... You can see the AGS motor in the lower right corner of the grill opening, this will allow much better air flow to my added engine oil cooler too:

 

[Tim Garceau]

Great photo, personally don’t see a lot of resistance there. Ridged, thin,
and chamfered blades.

If you don’t have freezing winters, it could be noted as a weight reduction mod.

 

[Tach_tech]

I just unplugged and disabled mine with hp tuners. Left the grille shutters installed in the open position. When they’re fully open I doubt there’s any real restriction. I mainly did it for mine to allow constant flow to the intercooler as well as closing during driving to get the coolant temp up past the 185ish it runs now. When winter comes I’ll just plug em back in.

 

[Longhorn1500]

I appreciate that the shutters do not cause much of a problem when in the open position. There is also the option to remove the middle shutters. One thing I do like about removing the whole assembly (besides the (minor) weight reduction), is getting rid of the fat center section that was shielding my engine oil cooler (if I knew better when installing it, I should have placed the cooler off center, oh well!).

 

[Longhorn1500]

I just towed my trailer for the first time since deleting my AGS. The oil temperatures were noticably lower. It did not get over 215F. The outside temperature was pretty low though, around 50F. The drive was somewhat hilly too. Glad I did the AGS delete!

 

[corneileous]

I just towed my trailer for the first time since deleting my AGS. The oil temperatures were noticably lower. It did not get over 215F. The outside temperature was pretty low though, around 50F. The drive was somewhat hilly too. Glad I did the AGS delete!

How did the truck run? I didn’t completely delete mine, I just removed all but the top and bottom louvers so that the system could still operate, but all of the middle opening wasn’t closed off when it would shut.

I think I did notice a degree or two, or maybe even three difference cooler in temps but it just seemed to me that if the computer is trying to make the engine run at a certain temperature either with or without a cooler thermostat, that the computer might be trying to adjust for the cooler temp when it sees that the motor is running cooler than usual. Which I’m sure my louvers probably stayed “closed” a lot more often because it was running a little cooler, I didn’t know if my computer was compensating by maybe changing the air/fuel ratio or changing the timing, I dunno.

Maybe the proper way to delete the shutters is to do that, put in a cooler stat and reprogram the computer to that new, lower temp? It’s just a thought.


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[Tach_tech]

If you’re running a colder thermostat, the grill shutters will be fighting it trying to get the engine to temp. So even though the thermostat is open and you’re at temp they could still be closing to try to get to the OE temp.

I have a 180 stat and clutch fan delete, amongst other things. What I did was just unplugged the AGS and disabled the codes with HP tuners, as well as adjusted the fan temps.

 

[corneileous]

If you’re running a colder thermostat, the grill shutters will be fighting it trying to get the engine to temp. So even though the thermostat is open and you’re at temp they could still be closing to try to get to the OE temp.

I have a 180 stat and clutch fan delete, amongst other things. What I did was just unplugged the AGS and disabled the codes with HP tuners, as well as adjusted the fan temps.

Ok so, if the AGS is partially deleted- like I had done at one point by removing all but the top and bottom louvers, and whether I would have stuck a colder stat in or not, would the computer or would it not be trying to compensate for the colder temp by adjusting air/fuel or timing advance?

If I were ever so inclined some day down the road to try it again and remove all but the top and bottom louvers, put a 180° stat in, would the truck actually run at that temp and not be having the computer tryin to change it once it figures out that the louvers aren’t bringing the temp back up to where it’s supposed to be?


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[Tach_tech]

The PCM would be adjusting air/fuel for the colder engine temp, if it was colder.

If you had a 180 stat, deleted all but the top and bottom fins, it would run cooler. The grill shutters will still try to fight it but with only the top and bottom are working then it obviously won’t be able to. If all the slats were in then it would be able to bring the temp up.

 

[corneileous]

The PCM would be adjusting air/fuel for the colder engine temp, if it was colder.

If you had a 180 stat, deleted all but the top and bottom fins, it would run cooler. The grill shutters will still try to fight it but with only the top and bottom are working then it obviously won’t be able to. If all the slats were in then it would be able to bring the temp up.

So unless you could make the computer not adjust with the air and fuel mixture then doesn’t that just kind of defeat the purpose of putting the colder stat in and deleting the active grill shutter system or removing the center louvers the way I did?


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[Tach_tech]

So unless you could make the computer not adjust with the air and fuel mixture then doesn’t that just kind of defeat the purpose of putting the colder stat in and deleting the active grill shutter system or removing the center louvers the way I did?


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A cooler engine will actually make more power, to a point. So it’s beneficial to run the cooler thermostat. The PCM isn’t adjusting the air/fuel to be what it is with the stock thermostat if that’s what you’re getting at. It will adjust for the cooler temp which usually means a bit more timing, which can make more power.

 

[corneileous]

A cooler engine will actually make more power, to a point. So it’s beneficial to run the cooler thermostat. The PCM isn’t adjusting the air/fuel to be what it is with the stock thermostat if that’s what you’re getting at. It will adjust for the cooler temp which usually means a bit more timing, which can make more power.

Ahh ok so, what little compensation the computer does make to heat up the engine is actually a good thing, yes? In that case, I may think about deleting my AGS and dropping a cooler thermostat in if that’s all it takes.

But now when you said you did a fan clutch delete, did you actually remove the mechanical fan? I take it you put in one of those dual electric fans?


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[Wild one]

Ahh ok so, what little compensation the computer does make to heat up the engine is actually a good thing, yes? In that case, I may think about deleting my AGS and dropping a cooler thermostat in if that’s all it takes.

But now when you said you did a fan clutch delete, did you actually remove the mechanical fan? I take it you put in one of those dual electric fans?


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Your truck has 2 fans,a mechanical clutch fan,and if you look inside the shroud,you'll see the electric A/C fan ahead of it.Some guys spring for the earlier V6 electric fan,but alot of us are just running the original electric A/C fan after removing the mechanical clutch fan ,with no issues ,after resetting the fans on/off parameters via a tune.You can get around that temporarily by running the A/C or leaving the interior heater controls on defrost,but that's only a temporary fix till you can get it tuned.