AlphaRex headlight non support

[MudderRam]

Just a tip, get a long #2 tip Phillips screwdriver and practice inserting it into the correct location and get a feel for it. I waited till after dark to aim my Alpharex headlights and its more difficult figuring it out in the dark. The screwdriver needs to be pushed in with a little effort while wiggling it back and forth so it engages the teeth.

Thanks for the advice. Maybe I'll do it tonight or during the weekend.

 

[Dwight James]

What am I missing?
Still getting front maker light out?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[MudderRam]

So far I have had one instance of getting an error message, I think it was "parking light out" but everything is working fine and no hyperflashing. I can live with the silly error message as long as everything works.

 

[Gixxer750]

I assume you had factory projectors? If so, disable the front driver and passenger door switch usage under CBC I/O Usage. This disables the fault sense wires on the factory projector trucks.

Wait wah? this does what know?

 

[GordDavey]

Wait wah? this does what know?

Gixxer750,
In the Body Computer, there are 4 settings for front/rear driver/pass door switch "usage"... really badly named, because for us RAM owners these 4 settings determine if the LED Fault sense wire for the LED Front Driver/Pass Headlights and LED Rear Driver/Pass tail lights are used or not... yes you heard that correctly, the door switch usage deals with LED light out messages.

 

[Gixxer750]

Gixxer750,
In the Body Computer, there are 4 settings for front/rear driver/pass door switch "usage"... really badly named, because for us RAM owners these 4 settings determine if the LED Fault sense wire for the LED Front Driver/Pass Headlights and LED Rear Driver/Pass tail lights are used or not... yes you heard that correctly, the door switch usage deals with LED light out messages.

 

[Gixxer750]

Nice, love alfa sometimes. Ill keep that in my notes. Are these the analog settings? Door open/closed settings? Or are they specific body I/O settings? I've kept all my lamp out functions working with target voltage values and enabling the lamp location LED. Or HID. Works for full function w/o any can bus or resistor junk. Has been accurate so far with actual lamp out locations. (2013, 15, and 17 sport, sport, and limited since 2015) updates have created issues along the way. So its good to know

 

[Jimmy07]

Nice, love alfa sometimes. Ill keep that in my notes. Are these the analog settings? Door open/closed settings? Or are they specific body I/O settings? I've kept all my lamp out functions working with target voltage values and enabling the lamp location LED. Or HID. Works for full function w/o any can bus or resistor junk. Has been accurate so far with actual lamp out locations. (2013, 15, and 17 sport, sport, and limited since 2015) updates have created issues along the way. So its good to know

The CBC Config I/O and Usage section of settings deals specifically with the BCM’s inputs and outputs (CBC=central body controller=BCM). Since our BCMs are shared with multiple vehicles, such as grand Cherokee, Durango, Pacifica, etc, there are many pins on the BCM that have multiple uses depending on which vehicle it’s used in. So, the setting CBC Config I/O Usage- connector F pin 27: door ajar switch signal rear left usage refers to the BCM’s C6/F connector, pin 27. On a ram, that pin is used for left rear lamp diagnostics. On some other vehicle, it is the rear left digital door ajar circuit. The lamp diagnostics are only enabled on factory projector equipped trucks, and deal only with the park lamp/turn signals. This is why on the earlier versions of alpharex headlights installed on projector equipped trucks, they would get park lamp out messages because those circuits were still looking for input, but the conversion harness was just dead ending that lamp diagnostics wire. So, we had the factory projector guys disable those lamp diagnostics circuits. Now, alpharex has updated their projector conversion harness to include this box to provide the ground that circuit is looking for when the turn signals are switched on-

 

[Gixxer750]

Wow I dont think i will ever be buying alpharex anything. That harness has no business outside of the cab. My mirrors connectors inside the door are a little better than than even. So anybody else want to nominate a good projector if a replacement was needed?or swap

 

[Gixxer750]

Thanks for the advice. Maybe I'll do it tonight or during the weekend.

Definitely a no vote again for alpharex. Glad to know the detailed short falls of the lights

 

[MudderRam]

Definitely a no vote again for alpharex. Glad to know the detailed short falls of the lights

As far as headlight goes, I think ARex are the better ones. Most threads I have read about all the other brands including the Morimotos seem to cause multiple issues with the canbus system, hyperflashing and multiple light error issues. All i get is a sporadic parking light out but everything works and no hyperflashing. So if I were to pick the lesser of the evils, I'd pick the ARex and compromise with a sporadic light out message that does nothing to the functionality and safety of my truck. If someone wants a better option, there is one, buy the more expensive Ram model with factory LED headlights otherwise there will be some minor compromise with aftermarket.

 

[Gixxer750]

As far as headlight goes, I think ARex are the better ones. Most threads I have read about all the other brands including the Morimotos seem to cause multiple issues with the canbus system, hyperflashing and multiple light error issues. All i get is a sporadic parking light out but everything works and no hyperflashing. So if I were to pick the lesser of the evils, I'd pick the ARex and compromise with a sporadic light out message that does nothing to the functionality and safety of my truck. If someone wants a better option, there is one, buy the more expensive Ram model with factory LED headlights otherwise there will be some minor compromise with aftermarket.

I just bought some PERDE black housing projectors to replace the all reflective projectors. They are descent for $300. Except for this. The projector eye on the driver side is ever so slightly off center resulting in this beam cutoff. I called headlightsdepot.com and am replacing them with another brand. I did have what appeared to be a hyper flash when installed. Fixed in in a couple mins with alfaOBD. (RESET target voltage and led drl designated locations) but the beam is beyond annoying, so they are shipping me another brand, which is also listed as an OEM replacement, as well as telling me that the PERDE housings are typically a great light and it may have been a one off. But I decided to error onbthe side of caution. All in all the fit is just about perfect. Not a huge fan of the dust covers, but everything works. Compared to the rex complaints I almost feel blessed for those who know the back of the projectors notice the dust cover mounting location that has completely been left out( my finger)

 

[Gixxer750]

As far as headlight goes, I think ARex are the better ones. Most threads I have read about all the other brands including the Morimotos seem to cause multiple issues with the canbus system, hyperflashing and multiple light error issues. All i get is a sporadic parking light out but everything works and no hyperflashing. So if I were to pick the lesser of the evils, I'd pick the ARex and compromise with a sporadic light out message that does nothing to the functionality and safety of my truck. If someone wants a better option, there is one, buy the more expensive Ram model with factory LED headlights otherwise there will be some minor compromise with aftermarket.

P.S. morimoto is absolute utter garbage. Overhyped junk. Anyone that is thinking morimoto, save your $$$, a lot of it, and buy cheap amazon junk https://www.amazon.com/Innovited-Li...:Innovited&rnid=2528832011&sr=8-13&th=1&psc=1
$50 AND A YEAR AND A HALF IN A 2015 1500 SPORT and 3 months in a 2017 1500 LIMITED. What is in the kit is all that I have installed in both and have only had one low beam out message. That would be when one of the morimoto lamps died after 2 months of life. If anyone wants XB 55w or XB 35 watt parts these are in my parts for pirating box and I will never install them again. Maybe in a prius to try and melt it down but never again. $100s of dollars and too much time telling tech support they are clueless ( im a high voltage and DC controls electrician) the ballasts and lamps are junk, compensated with 4 resistors 2 relays and can bus error cancelors on a full independent harness. What a joke. No LEDs or HIDS draw more than the 55w and 65W halogens you already have. I promise. Unless you fill the circuit with resistors and capacitors, for the worst reason, trying to trick the truck. Dont fight the bcm, work with it. These trucks had HIDs as an option. I could ramble on about their short comings for days....i digress

 

[AE5548]

As far as headlight goes, I think ARex are the better ones. Most threads I have read about all the other brands including the Morimotos seem to cause multiple issues with the canbus system, hyperflashing and multiple light error issues. All i get is a sporadic parking light out but everything works and no hyperflashing. So if I were to pick the lesser of the evils, I'd pick the ARex and compromise with a sporadic light out message that does nothing to the functionality and safety of my truck. If someone wants a better option, there is one, buy the more expensive Ram model with factory LED headlights otherwise there will be some minor compromise with aftermarket.

Well put. Morimoto has FAR more problems than Alpharex has and they're nowhere near as bright (XB vs Nova). I have no regrets on my purchase.

 

[superjoe83]

I just bought some PERDE black housing projectors to replace the all reflective projectors. They are descent for $300. Except for this. The projector eye on the driver side is ever so slightly off center resulting in this beam cutoff. I called headlightsdepot.com and am replacing them with another brand. I did have what appeared to be a hyper flash when installed. Fixed in in a couple mins with alfaOBD. (RESET target voltage and led drl designated locations) but the beam is beyond annoying, so they are shipping me another brand, which is also listed as an OEM replacement, as well as telling me that the PERDE housings are typically a great light and it may have been a one off. But I decided to error onbthe side of caution. All in all the fit is just about perfect. Not a huge fan of the dust covers, but everything works. Compared to the rex complaints I almost feel blessed for those who know the back of the projectors notice the dust cover mounting location that has completely been left out( my finger)

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I dont see anything wrong with the output, if you talking about how the drivers and passenger side cutoff steps don't line up that is completely normal, unless the headlights are aimed cross-eyed the steps will never line up

 

[Gixxer750]

I dont see anything wrong with the output, if you talking about how the drivers and passenger side cutoff steps don't line up that is completely normal, unless the headlights are aimed cross-eyed the steps will never line up

The oems did not do that. If you look close its the exact shape of where the hood steps forward and up. They are set to high and possibly crosseyed?

 

[Gixxer750]

The oems did not do that. If you look close its the exact shape of where the hood steps forward and up. They are set to high and possibly crosseyed?

Bad,

 

[Jimmy07]

The oems did not do that. If you look close its the exact shape of where the hood steps forward and up. They are set to high and possibly crosseyed?

Bad,

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That is exactly how the cutoff line of a North American market projector is supposed to look, and is completely normal. If you go on a road that has a divided centerline, you’ll notice that the stepdown on the left side of the street occurs right at the dividing line for oncoming traffic. Can you guess why that is?
The factory ones aren’t like that because 1) the cutoff shield inside the projector is not notched enough, and 2) the factory uses a “frosted” projector lens, so that cutoff line is not as sharp.
Any aftermarket projector that you buy is going to look exactly like your pics.

 

[Gixxer750]

L

That is exactly how the cutoff line of a North American market projector is supposed to look, and is completely normal. If you go on a road that has a divided centerline, you’ll notice that the stepdown on the left side of the street occurs right at the dividing line for oncoming traffic. Can you guess why that is?
The factory ones aren’t like that because 1) the cutoff shield inside the projector is not notched enough, and 2) the factory uses a “frosted” projector lens, so that cutoff line is not as sharp.
Any aftermarket projector that you buy is going to look exactly like your pics.

LEt me try to straighten that out. My factory headlights, country of origin and destination : USA, are the lights with the problem. Because the failed to move the beam impact point back 5-8' ish? So that if I'm going to blind the driver in oncoming traffic with poorly adjusted lights, this will happen 5-8' later? Because there is a notch that only cuts off the top of the beam at a certain distance before the entire beam is cut off by the 100% side to side metal "flap" that is also in the OEM projectors that do not do this. Probably because cutting the distance will not change the angle. I can blind the world if I want because some genius doesn't know that the form of lifht emitted from a projector scatters and is not a lazer and will not be directed, only cut off completely. And this decision to cut my capacity to see the left side, signage, etc was made my every aftermarket retailer? That boast OEM specs?

Please reference the 2013 and 15 ram sports below and know im positive im correct when I say "that is absolutely not true"
PS I apologize for the sarcasm prior to that. But where you introduce logic to explain a bad assembly, I feel obligated to poke holes in that line of thinking
ZERO beam retardation on all 3 trucks projectors.....hmm.

 

[MudderRam]

I just bought some PERDE black housing projectors to replace the all reflective projectors. They are descent for $300. Except for this. The projector eye on the driver side is ever so slightly off center resulting in this beam cutoff. I called headlightsdepot.com and am replacing them with another brand. I did have what appeared to be a hyper flash when installed. Fixed in in a couple mins with alfaOBD. (RESET target voltage and led drl designated locations) but the beam is beyond annoying, so they are shipping me another brand, which is also listed as an OEM replacement, as well as telling me that the PERDE housings are typically a great light and it may have been a one off. But I decided to error onbthe side of caution. All in all the fit is just about perfect. Not a huge fan of the dust covers, but everything works. Compared to the rex complaints I almost feel blessed for those who know the back of the projectors notice the dust cover mounting location that has completely been left out( my finger)

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Those look nice. I was thinking about going with oem look but when I saw the Rexes, I liked that look more.