Andersen no sway weight distribution hitch

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jeveretts

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This is my first time using any type of WDH and it is such a remarkable difference I thought I would make a post in case somebody else is on the fence like I was.

First of all, I have been through 3 trucks in the last 2 years. I bought a new 2020 F250 6.7 Powerstroke diesel 4x4 to pull my 2020 Sol Horizon travel trailer (3500lbs empty). Needless to say, it pulled it like nobody's business. I even had to run home one night from Key West back to N. Florida, there was no traffic and it was late at night so I set the cruise at 80mph and it was like I didn't have the trailer behind me.

Once Covid hit and the price of trucks went crazy, I came across a great deal on a 2019 F150 4x4 Platinum with about 7k miles, so I sold my 1 year old F250 for about $10K more than I paid for it and bought the F150. Big mistake, the F150 towed like complete ass in comparison, but it did the job. The trailer would bounce the ass end around and the front end felt light, making the steering really vague feeling. I thought about a WDH at this point but really didn't want the hassle, so I put some helper springs on the F150 and called it a day.

I was never a huge fan on that F150, while a nice truck it just didn't really do the job as I liked. Just recently I found out I needed to repair the foundation on my house. I don't have a lien on my house and I don't want a lien on my house so I decided to sell that F150 and use the cash to fix my foundation and finance a new truck.

In steps my 2022 Ram 1500 Laramie 4x4. I would have gone with a 2500 but my wife really likes the smaller size of the 1500 trucks now. The Ram is a VERY nice truck, it is missing some options that the Ford Platinum had but the interior feels much more luxurious. That being said... it still tows like ass... just like the F150. So I decided to do the WDH.

This morning I had my local trailer shop set up an Andersen No Sway WDH and all I can say is holy crap, why didn't I do this sooner? The difference in how the truck handles is far beyond night and day. It is like a different truck. It feels so stable and planted to the road. I can't even find the words to describe the difference this make. I can feel that both axles are loaded, the steering feels great, and the trailer doesn't move the truck at all going down the road. As a matter of fact, I think the truck bounced and moves around far more when unloaded now.

If you are on the fence, even with a lightweight trailer like mine, just do it, you won't be sorry.

That all being said, I don't know how the more traditional WDH's work with the spring bars.. the Andersen has chains and bushings and it is pretty genius and works unbelievably well.
 

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crash68

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you can't compare a HD truck with a diesel engine to a half ton truck, doesn't matter if it's a Ford, Chevy or Ram all three diesel trucks pretty much have close to 1K lbs extra over the front axle. That changes your towing dynamic even if there's a BGE under the hood.
As for a WDH, whether it's an Anderson or some other brand, when set up properly it will restore the lost weight to the front axle when pulling a tag along.
 

VernDiesel

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All 5 half ton Mfgrs recommend a WDH for trailers over 5,000 pounds. High wind drag trailers such as travel trailers especially benefit from not only the weight distribution but the built in sway control such as the Andersen has. Sounds like the guy at the local trailer shop knew how to set it up to be in the zone so to speak to do what WDHs are supposed to do. Amazing how much more safe & stable a truck & trailer can become from a good setup. It also Amazing how many you see in campgrounds etc that have no idea how to use their WDH for weight distribution. Airbags can also be great when used to compliment a WDH and not used in place of or to overpower or fight the WDH.

You should learn how to use the WDH yourself. Many even RV dealership flunkies have no real understanding of how the WDH works hence setup may or may not work as the WDH Mfgr intended. A CAT scale is ideal for optimizing the setup of a near the truck limits trailer. But just a tape measure can help you to get your setup in the zone so to speak for the WDH to generally do its job. That is have your wheel well height to the ground unloaded. A simple tape measure works quick & easy. After adding the trailer and adjusting the WDH & loading you should have brought the wheel well height back down to within 1/2" of the unloaded wheel well height. The rear of the truck should not have any sag and the trailer should be level front to back. again the tape measure works much better than eyeballing it.

I've been using the light quiet easy to use built in sway control Andersen WDH since 2014.
 

turkeybird56

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All 5 half ton Mfgrs recommend a WDH for trailers over 5,000 pounds. High wind drag trailers such as travel trailers especially benefit from not only the weight distribution but the built in sway control such as the Andersen has. Sounds like the guy at the local trailer shop knew how to set it up to be in the zone so to speak to do what WDHs are supposed to do. Amazing how much more safe & stable a truck & trailer can become from a good setup. It also Amazing how many you see in campgrounds etc that have no idea how to use their WDH for weight distribution. Airbags can also be great when used to compliment a WDH and not used in place of or to overpower or fight the WDH.

You should learn how to use the WDH yourself. Many even RV dealership flunkies have no real understanding of how the WDH works hence setup may or may not work as the WDH Mfgr intended. A CAT scale is ideal for optimizing the setup of a near the truck limits trailer. But just a tape measure can help you to get your setup in the zone so to speak for the WDH to generally do its job. That is have your wheel well height to the ground unloaded. A simple tape measure works quick & easy. After adding the trailer and adjusting the WDH & loading you should have brought the wheel well height back down to within 1/2" of the unloaded wheel well height. The rear of the truck should not have any sag and the trailer should be level front to back. again the tape measure works much better than eyeballing it.

I've been using the light quiet easy to use built in sway control Andersen WDH since 2014.
VERN, see U in here, how U be? Still on 2nd Motor or third? U get such optimal use out of the ED's. Hope all is well.

DA BOIRD.
 

turkeybird56

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you can't compare a HD truck with a diesel engine to a half ton truck, doesn't matter if it's a Ford, Chevy or Ram all three diesel trucks pretty much have close to 1K lbs extra over the front axle. That changes your towing dynamic even if there's a BGE under the hood.
As for a WDH, whether it's an Anderson or some other brand, when set up properly it will restore the lost weight to the front axle when pulling a tag along.
The only reason I do not use a WDH when I tow my 2,150 Trailer with 5-6,000 lbs of hay is because, it is only 8 miles from where I get my hay to my property. If I was going ne distance, there would always be a WDH on the truck ref towing.
 

VernDiesel

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Bird I be well. Hope you are also and thanks for asking. Unfortunately the ED cracked a head at 423,000 miles. Business associate James faired a little better his ED had a fuel pump implode and fill a cylinder with shrapnel at 452,000. Perhaps this one makes 500,000 miles.

I dig your Ronald Reagan quote. He understood our responsibility as free citizens and the war of attrition the communists or global left is waging upon us. Unfortunately despite our last election they installed their man anyway. The ends justifies the means and by any means necessary for their agenda and ideology is more than a tagline. In WWII and since to include genocides. So many have no idea what is going on, the seriousness of it, carry its water and are even duped into voting it upon us. Reagan also famously said we are always but one generation away from losing our freedom. (Our constitutional republic to a socialist elite controlled state)
 
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dieseldave

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All 5 half ton Mfgrs recommend a WDH for trailers over 5,000 pounds. High wind drag trailers such as travel trailers especially benefit from not only the weight distribution but the built in sway control such as the Andersen has. Sounds like the guy at the local trailer shop knew how to set it up to be in the zone so to speak to do what WDHs are supposed to do. Amazing how much more safe & stable a truck & trailer can become from a good setup. It also Amazing how many you see in campgrounds etc that have no idea how to use their WDH for weight distribution. Airbags can also be great when used to compliment a WDH and not used in place of or to overpower or fight the WDH.

You should learn how to use the WDH yourself. Many even RV dealership flunkies have no real understanding of how the WDH works hence setup may or may not work as the WDH Mfgr intended. A CAT scale is ideal for optimizing the setup of a near the truck limits trailer. But just a tape measure can help you to get your setup in the zone so to speak for the WDH to generally do its job. That is have your wheel well height to the ground unloaded. A simple tape measure works quick & easy. After adding the trailer and adjusting the WDH & loading you should have brought the wheel well height back down to within 1/2" of the unloaded wheel well height. The rear of the truck should not have any sag and the trailer should be level front to back. again the tape measure works much better than eyeballing it.

I've been using the light quiet easy to use built in sway control Andersen WDH since 2014.
Vern , you use the word LEVEL. DONT YOU WANT IT PARALLEL ?
 

VernDiesel

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Not positive I follow you. The trailer should be level not nose up or nose down. The truck should also be level or with a slight rake. This is generally & ball park.
Ultimately it's about weight distribution; steer axle weight, drive axle weight, tongue weight percentage, & trailer axle weight. This can most accurately be seen on and adjusted accordingly by CAT scale results. Also good vs not good can be felt or confirmed when driving. It should feel stable. Semi bow wave that pushes & pulls as it passes should feel as if its pushing one unit away from it as it moves past and not wiggle & swing your truck & trailer like an accordion or ripple like a foam line going over a water wave. There should be no trailer sway. Again stable not light in the front and wanting to wonder.
 

RobT

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Hello, I just upgraded from F150 4x4 crew 3.5 ecoboost with max tow pkg to a 2022 Laramie 2500 crew 4x4. The F150 could pull but it could not handle the load to my liking. Payload was at max with the tongue weight required. I was really at the top end of the Ford's ability. I love my new RAM. I bought my Imagine 29ft (7000#) travel trailer in March and bought the ProPride 3P hitch for it. I hear the ProPride designer came from Hensley Arrow. I am new to RV towing but not new to towing. The "big sail" of these travel trailers is a new experience for me that I am still working through. The ProPride is expensive, but I like it. The horizontal "stinger" vs. a drop ball hookup is a little more challenging but I like it. I'm still dialing in my sweet spot on the tongue weight and WDH, etc. I too use the tape measure method and get my front wheel well back to within 1/2 inch. I have also used the CAT scales a few times and I also have a Sherline scale to weigh my TW. When towing I still get a sensation of the semi truck bow wave on some rigs passing me. As the truck comes up on my camper it pushes it out to the right, which hinges my truck nose towards the semi. This is not a drastic movement, but I feel it and have to steer right slightly to compensate. I get no repeated sway just the push, but the sensation is still there. I don't think there is a way to totally eliminate that "push" unless the truck and trailer were mounted together as one which is not realistic of course. I only tow 55-60 MPH in the Virginia area.
 
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