Another no start post, but different

[Idledrummer]

Hello,
yesterday we dropped our boat in the water and my wife went to park the truck. when she called me to fix the parking, all lights come on normally, but no start at all. Hear a subtle single Click.
tried jumping battery, replace with new battery and still same issue. The AAA guys tried to bang on the starter, but no luck. Never had starter problems before. my suspicion is starter engaging, but not turning? Is there any other test before I remove the started for bench test?
ti checked other posts but didn’t find anything helpful.
thank you!

 

[NETim]

Other than ensuring connections on the starter, grounds and battery are tight and clean, I'd look at the starter.

 

[Curmudgeon]

Can you hear the solenoid? You said you "suspect the starter is engaging but not turning". Are you able to hear it? At least you could rule it good or rule it bad?

*I am not a mechanic*

 

[Idledrummer]

Can you hear the solenoid? You said you "suspect the starter is engaging but not turning". Are you able to hear it? At least you could rule it good or rule it bad?

*I am not a mechanic*

Yes, I hear it.

 

[Idledrummer]

Will be removing the starter. This is my first Ram, what brand of new starter should I buy? I know it can be subjective, but I rather buy a good quality than cheapest.

 

[crash68]

Check the voltage on the starter battery terminal when cranking, if there is little to no drop it's probably the starter, if there's a significant voltage drop it probably something seized up. Could try turning the engine over by hand(wrench).

 

[Idledrummer]

Check the voltage on the starter battery terminal when cranking, if there is little to no drop it's probably the starter, if there's a significant voltage drop it probably something seized up. Could try turning the engine over by hand(wrench).

Great advice! I guess I could also remove the belt, since I don’t have anyone to help, at least to eliminate seizing of belt connected components.

 

[Jeepwalker]

Sounds like you did the right things trying to swap batteries, etc. Did you guys try swapping relays in the fusebox? The starter like you say is the next thing to look at.

I would personally rebuild the starter if it were me with good 'Standard' products. ....but that's me. OEM starters are made to a high level. But barring that, Autozone seems to have pretty decent starters, and they claim they run them through a multi-step check process. Which is reassuring. I imagine OReilly's and others are good too.

Most likely the starter solenoid has worn out on your starter. They're not expensive to buy (as a replacement part), but best thing would be to have the starter tested. If you go through that process of taking it out and testing it, you might as well buy a replacement since it's a 2011.

The WIN-module is an electronic little box which is behind where ya put the key. You actually put the key into that module ...which sits on the backside of the dash. Those were used on all/most chrysler vehicles and they DO flake out. That's another possibility. Esp when heavier key chains are used. The module can be removed and DIY serviced if you have DIY capabilities. There are a ton of videos on how to clean the contact or fix cracked solder joints. Just search youtube.

But first try the starter. The fact you get a 'click' is a positive sign. Make sure the wires that hook to the starter look good.

 

[Sherman Bird]

Great advice! I guess I could also remove the belt, since I don’t have anyone to help, at least to eliminate seizing of belt connected components.

JUST remember to remove a wrench or socket/ratchet from the crank balancer bolt before attempting to crank. Severe damage and/ or injury is possible!

 

[Idledrummer]

Sounds like you did the right things trying to swap batteries, etc. Did you guys try swapping relays in the fusebox? The starter like you say is the next thing to look at.

I would personally rebuild the starter if it were me with good 'Standard' products. ....but that's me. OEM starters are made to a high level. But barring that, Autozone seems to have pretty decent starters, and they claim they run them through a multi-step check process. Which is reassuring. I imagine OReilly's and others are good too.

Most likely the starter solenoid has worn out on your starter. They're not expensive to buy (as a replacement part), but best thing would be to have the starter tested. If you go through that process of taking it out and testing it, you might as well buy a replacement since it's a 2011.

The WIN-module is an electronic little box which is behind where ya put the key. You actually put the key into that module ...which sits on the backside of the dash. Those were used on all/most chrysler vehicles and they DO flake out. That's another possibility. Esp when heavier key chains are used. The module can be removed and DIY serviced if you have DIY capabilities. There are a ton of videos on how to clean the contact or fix cracked solder joints. Just search youtube.

But first try the starter. The fact you get a 'click' is a positive sign. Make sure the wires that hook to the starter look good.

Thank you very much! That is encouraging. I do repairs myself, until I fail.

 

[Jeepwalker]

Thank you very much! That is encouraging. I do repairs myself, until I fail.

LOL

 

[Idledrummer]

Does the relay legs always match the holes, even when the middle leg is cut off? The AAA guy was playing with them, and I wanted to make sure they are in the right position.

 

[Travelin Ram]

There’s no contact showing in that center hole of the socket, you’re good.

I’d go straight to the starter to diagnose.

A- what is the voltage to the starters solenoid when attempting to crank? (The small terminal where the relay sends voltage to control the solenoid) Should be ~12.

B- what’s the voltage where the big battery cable connects to the starter?

If 12v sustained plus click plus no crank = bad starter, open windings or brushes.

If 12v plus big voltage drop plus no crank then most likely bad connection or cable or battery. Possibly shorted starter motor.

 

[Idledrummer]

There’s no contact showing in that center hole of the socket, you’re good.

I’d go straight to the starter to diagnose.

A- what is the voltage to the starters solenoid when attempting to crank? (The small terminal where the relay sends voltage to control the solenoid) Should be ~12.

B- what’s the voltage where the big battery cable connects to the starter?

If 12v sustained plus click plus no crank = bad starter, open windings or brushes.

If 12v plus big voltage drop plus no crank then most likely bad connection or cable or battery. Possibly shorted starter motor.

Just tested voltage, no drop when starting. Removing the starter now. Thanks!!
Debating between duralast starter from autozone, ir Denso from Napa?

 

[Travelin Ram]

Denso better than duracrap. IMO.

 

[Idledrummer]

Check the voltage on the starter battery terminal when cranking, if there is little to no drop it's probably the starter, if there's a significant voltage drop it probably something seized up. Could try turning the engine over by hand(wrench).

Right on it! Little voltage drop, 0.4, removing starter now. Thank you!

 

[Jeepwalker]

Is the denso brand new? Denso is generally good stuff. BUT!!!! I'm not so tickled with Napa's warranty. I have an account with them and have had for many yrs. I used to buy all my stuff through them. But they always hem n haw when I've taken something in for a legitimate warranty. They ask for the receipt ..and they KNOW I have an account. I think they do that so other customers hear it. I ask them to look it up in their system (my account) ....and it's like pulling teeth. And things like pre-warped rotors I've taken back (I put a dial indicator on any new rotors) ..they very begrudgingly take back. And they just make it seem like I'm taking candy away from a baby. Maybe they're better out at stores in your area. I listen to how they handle other customers's warranties. They tend to make it very tricky or deny warranties w/o proof of purchase which other auto parts places gladly take care of. Now ...maybe NAPA has improved in the last couple yrs. I stopped buying alternators/Starters (and even brakes) from them for the reasons above.

Whereas Autozone or OReilly, you can walk into any store and they practically trip over themselves to look up & get ya a replacement warranted part. No "you're making me work real hard dance" where they ask for the receipt. They handle warranties very professional and courteously. (Better than Advance IMO). I've even complained about a set of brake pads once at OReilly's (had one pad rust off the backing plate) just an off-hand remark while I was purchasing new replacement pads. I didn't have the old ones with me. While I was standing there, he heard what I said, looked it up on his own (to see if I had bought them from OReilly's). Again, I wasn't asking for a warranty. But he handed me the box of new pads and said "These are on us, hopefully they won't rust up like the last ones". I just don't see NAPA every doing that. Not at all. I had a brand new Bosch alternator go bad on me, after 2 or 3 yrs. Autozone looked it up, walked back and handed me a new one, said bring the old one back once you get it off. No questions asked, didn't make me feel like I was putting them out of business, no receipt questions, saved me a trip (it was a difficult to change alt) ...and a smile on their face.

For those reasons alone, I tend to buy most items from Autozone or OReilly's. I'd probably buy the starter at Autozone/OReilly's too if I was in your shoes. What good is the warranty if you have to 'work for it'?? Plus, I haven't had bulletproof luck buying 'new' starters or Alternators anyway.

 

[Idledrummer]

Is the denso brand new? Denso is generally good stuff. BUT!!!! I'm not so tickled with Napa's warranty. I have an account with them and have had for many yrs. I used to buy all my stuff through them. But they always hem n haw when I've taken something in for a legitimate warranty. They ask for the receipt ..and they KNOW I have an account. I think they do that so other customers hear it. I ask them to look it up in their system (my account) ....and it's like pulling teeth. And things like pre-warped rotors I've taken back (I put a dial indicator on any new rotors) ..they very begrudgingly take back. And they just make it seem like I'm taking candy away from a baby. Maybe they're better out at stores in your area. I listen to how they handle other customers's warranties. They tend to make it very tricky or deny warranties w/o proof of purchase which other auto parts places gladly take care of. Now ...maybe NAPA has improved in the last couple yrs. I stopped buying alternators/Starters (and even brakes) from them for the reasons above.

Whereas Autozone or OReilly, you can walk into any store and they practically trip over themselves to look up & get ya a replacement warranted part. No "you're making me work real hard dance" where they ask for the receipt. They handle warranties very professional and courteously. (Better than Advance IMO). I've even complained about a set of brake pads once at OReilly's (had one pad rust off the backing plate) just an off-hand remark while I was purchasing new replacement pads. I didn't have the old ones with me. While I was standing there, he heard what I said, looked it up on his own (to see if I had bought them from OReilly's). Again, I wasn't asking for a warranty. But he handed me the box of new pads and said "These are on us, hopefully they won't rust up like the last ones". I just don't see NAPA every doing that. Not at all. I had a brand new Bosch alternator go bad on me, after 2 or 3 yrs. Autozone looked it up, walked back and handed me a new one, said bring the old one back once you get it off. No questions asked, didn't make me feel like I was putting them out of business, no receipt questions, saved me a trip (it was a difficult to change alt) ...and a smile on their face.

For those reasons alone, I tend to buy most items from Autozone or OReilly's. I'd probably buy the starter at Autozone/OReilly's too if I was in your shoes. What good is the warranty if you have to 'work for it'?? Plus, I haven't had bulletproof luck buying 'new' starters or Alternators anyway.

I ended up getting from the dealer, remanufactured for $171 + my old one. Couldn’t get Denso delivered today. I agree with your NAPA customer service. I had to return one purchase and they kept making faces. I hesitate to buy from them now. Thank you everyone, I got lucky and replaced it without having to remove any bracket.