Anyone try Modifystreet headlights?

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chrisbh17

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I'll pile on here. I finally got an error by turning OFF LED low beams (because I have HID enabled and HIDs installed). This caused me to receive a "low beam bulb out" error when turning on high beams. I didn't receive this error when I had actual LED lows installed.

Originally had factory Quads. Currently have G2s. Seems there is an error code slider that sums multiple inputs before triggering.

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It would be awesome if there was a way to know just WTF the BCM is doing inside its black box :)

Im pretty sure we know its looking for resistance, because adding load resistors "fixes" stuff. But it would be nice to know just how MUCH resistance its expecting, so we dont need to use any more than necessary.

Would also be nice to know if the LED present settings change how much resistance its looking for, or if it stops looking for resistance altogether.

Ever since I went to 12.2V for all voltages (except low and high beam which are 14/14.2) Ive gotten far less random errors. Ive also noticed the errors act "differently". If Im connected to the BCM then disconnect without clearing any turn signal errors, the next time I use the signals the errors will pop up. But just that once....I wont see them again until after I connect/disconnect from the BCM. TBH I think its SUPPOSED to work like that...kinda like a reminder that you forgot to clear codes.
 

bigred90gt

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So, I figured out how to use my Southwest Airlines rewards points (I accumulated well over 300k over the years) and ordered $600 worth of amazon gift cards which should be here in a few days. My plan is as follows:

chrome 19 style no HID original version
Hikari Ultra H7 LED for the lows
Katana H7 LED for the highs
Kindle fire 7 tablet to be compatible with the app and OBD dongle (we’re all apple)
OBDLink Mx+

gift cards should be here Monday or so, then I expect a week for delivery of the components. Hoping to tackle install next weekend if everything is here.

I currently have TYC projectors that had a Morimoto 15+ relay harness, 1 morimoto 35w ballast, 1 hylux 35w ballast, 2 5500k bulbs, and all associated resistors. The Morimoto ballast took a dump (3rd one in 2 years, hence the 1 hylux ballast) so I pulled the setup completely and installed silverstar ultras for the interim. They’re barely palatable compared to the hid.

I thought about replacing the hid kit, but noticed my passenger projector has a purple tint while my driver side is clear, and it results in a different color output. I’ve dealt with it for 2 years, and now I can replace it for no cost to me.

From all I read, the Hikari Ultra seem to be great in the lows. I prefer HID in the 4500-5000k range for brightness and projection, but the Hikari seem to get good enough reviews and I don’t have to hack my dust covers up. If I end up not liking them, I’ll get an bid kit of some flavor.

I bought the tablet and OBD dongle to use Alpha OBD to adjust for leds in the lows, highs, and park/turn. While I’m in it, I might change my tire size as well to even out things.

I’ve tried looking, but this is a large thread. Does anyone have a link that can direct me to the needed AlphaOBD changes/procedures for the lows, highs and park/turn? Also the tire size change.

if I don’t like the Hikari in the lows, I’ll end up ordering an HID kit (probably GTR gen 5 55w 5000k to replace them. My wife and daughter have LED factory in their cars (2015 Mini Cooper S amd 2018 Mustang Eco) and all is well, so hoping for similar results.

plan to wire in the DRL with the provided harness as well. I have a 2017 1500 (lone star). Can anyone advise fuse to tap into? Also what size “add a fuse” would I need? I have never opened the fuse box so I don’t know what size the fuses are in this truck.

sorry for the novel and barrage of questions, but I do thank you in advance for any assistance you can offer.
Got everything ordered today. I went with the Hikari Ultras for the lows. If I find I don’t like them, I’ll get an HID kit instead, but figured I’d give them a shot first to try and keep from Jacking up the covers. From what I have seen they should be ok, and certainly better than the silverstars I have now in my TYC projectors.

I went with the MX instead of the MX +, as from what I gather the only difference is iOS support on the MX+.

Everything but the lights should be in this weekend, lights due in mid next week.
 

danmit37

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For those with parking light out on the Gen2 lights, try using Alfa to set "CBC Features - LED Front Park/Marker Lamps Present" to "Yes" and report back if that works or not.
It dud not work for me. Actually, with that set to yes, I got more errors. I would get the error as soon I turned my lights on, versus just when I used my directional. I ended up turning it off bc the error would come and go randomly. It’s odd.

Right now I just have the LED turn signals set to yes and I get the error every time I use a directional and periodically when I have high beams on. I am puzzled.

AlphaRex is suggesting I unhook the load resistor (pics in previous post) and see if that helps. I know nothing about electrical but I have talked to people that understand and they think it makes sense. Possibly causing to much resistance and causing the Open Circuit error of Parking Light Out. I’m going to try it and post results. @1500ram12 has been a huge help to me so far, so I’m hoping we can figure out my particular situation. I’ve contemplated putting LED bulbs in, but just want to get my current issue fixed. Lol
 

danmit37

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I didn't realize that they had resistors in them already but was getting that same parking light out error, so i added in a load resistor into the parking light wire and havnt had one error show up since I did that couple months ago
I didn’t either. That info cane from AlphaRex tech. There are pics of it in a previous post
 

Ben1551

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I didn’t either. That info cane from AlphaRex tech. There are pics of it in a previous post
I'd add that resistor anyways see if that helps u it's not hard to did and havnt had a error since. I did call alpharex awhile back and asked them if they'd suggest adding the resistor and they said that I could wont hurt
 

danmit37

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Try turning hid back on after removing the resistors. A theory is that these lights may use more power than the halogens and the increased voltage to the turn/parks works like a resistor. I was having the same issue as you. When the headlights were on I'd get a turn signal out message. I installed resistors for a while while chrisbh17 and I tossed ideas around. What worked for me was what I posted. I also think that once the resistors are out and use the settings I posted you should be good. If not we'll figure what works for your truck. Another though was having high and/or low's set to led also effects the turn/park lights in a negative way


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Ok...I took lights out, unhooked load resistors and got same exact errors with all the different LED alfa setting as with them hooked up. I went back into Alfa and changed the HID and other settings to your recommendation and it made it worse. I got the same Parking Light Out error, then it would say Front Turn signal out and start to hyperflash. I reset everything back to normal and would periodically get the hyperflash still. It's weird...the hyperflash would only last a few seconds and it was on the dash and the mirror light, not the actual front or rear turn signals. I hooked the resistors back up and have yet to get hyperflash, but still getting parking light out error. Afla said the error for the Front turn signal error was an open circuit, same as the Parking light error is an open circuit.
 

1500ram12

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Ok...I took lights out, unhooked load resistors and got same exact errors with all the different LED alfa setting as with them hooked up. I went back into Alfa and changed the HID and other settings to your recommendation and it made it worse. I got the same Parking Light Out error, then it would say Front Turn signal out and start to hyperflash. I reset everything back to normal and would periodically get the hyperflash still. It's weird...the hyperflash would only last a few seconds and it was on the dash and the mirror light, not the actual front or rear turn signals. I hooked the resistors back up and have yet to get hyperflash, but still getting parking light out error. Afla said the error for the Front turn signal error was an open circuit, same as the Parking light error is an open circuit.

The open circuit just means that the computer is not seeing the correct resistance so it thinks the light is out.

When the hyper flash occurs does it do it immediately then stop or does it start after the signals are already in use then stop?

For the parking lights. Set to led and try increasing the voltage back to 12.2v.


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danmit37

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The open circuit just means that the computer is not seeing the correct resistance so it thinks the light is out.

When the hyper flash occurs does it do it immediately then stop or does it start after the signals are already in use then stop?

For the parking lights. Set to led and try increasing the voltage back to 12.2v.


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The hyperflash does not come immediately...takes a couple seconds. I would get about 2 -3 blinks and get the parking light error, then the hyperflash with the turn signal error.

For voltage...is that the 'front marker' voltage?
 

1500ram12

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The hyperflash does not come immediately...takes a couple seconds. I would get about 2 -3 blinks and get the parking light error, then the hyperflash with the turn signal error.

For voltage...is that the 'front marker' voltage?

Correct front marker


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1500ram12

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The hyperflash does not come immediately...takes a couple seconds. I would get about 2 -3 blinks and get the parking light error, then the hyperflash with the turn signal error.

For voltage...is that the 'front marker' voltage?

You can also try 2014 CBC I/O & front park lamps open dtc >No and see if that changes anything


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danmit37

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You can also try 2014 CBC I/O & front park lamps open dtc >No and see if that changes anything


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2014 setting is already at No.

LED Park/Marker to yes and 12.2 voltage gave me error as soon as I turn on headlight. Turned off LED and left voltage at 12.2, light error as soon as I turn on headlights. Factory setting for park lights is 13...is 12.2 where we want to go? I'm assuming we go that way because the LEDs pull less voltage than the factory parks?

Is there a setting in Alfa that I can change and say "I don't want to know when I have a bulb out"? I think Dodge can do it for me, wondering if Alfa can. That would end all this...I just wouldn't know if I had a different bulb out
 

1500ram12

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2014 setting is already at No.

LED Park/Marker to yes and 12.2 voltage gave me error as soon as I turn on headlight. Turned off LED and left voltage at 12.2, light error as soon as I turn on headlights. Factory setting for park lights is 13...is 12.2 where we want to go? I'm assuming we go that way because the LEDs pull less voltage than the factory parks?

Is there a setting in Alfa that I can change and say "I don't want to know when I have a bulb out"? I think Dodge can do it for me, wondering if Alfa can. That would end all this...I just wouldn't know if I had a different bulb out

Try enabling the 2014 CBC.
Try dropping down to 7.4v


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chrisbh17

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2014 setting is already at No.

LED Park/Marker to yes and 12.2 voltage gave me error as soon as I turn on headlight. Turned off LED and left voltage at 12.2, light error as soon as I turn on headlights. Factory setting for park lights is 13...is 12.2 where we want to go? I'm assuming we go that way because the LEDs pull less voltage than the factory parks?

Is there a setting in Alfa that I can change and say "I don't want to know when I have a bulb out"? I think Dodge can do it for me, wondering if Alfa can. That would end all this...I just wouldn't know if I had a different bulb out

Just to be sure....you are setting both left and right versions of things, yes?

The front parking/marker lamp voltage is the front corner voltage setting, and is set for each corner (left, right)

I noticed if I had different values across right vs left, the amount of errors I would get increased.
 

danmit37

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Just to be sure....you are setting both left and right versions of things, yes?

The front parking/marker lamp voltage is the front corner voltage setting, and is set for each corner (left, right)

I noticed if I had different values across right vs left, the amount of errors I would get increased.
Yes...I’m setting both sides. Even going into the ‘read’ features to make sure I have settings were I want before testing.

@1500ram12 i can only go down to 12v on front markers.
 

chrisbh17

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Yes...I’m setting both sides. Even going into the ‘read’ features to make sure I have settings were I want before testing.

@1500ram12 i can only go down to 12v on front markers.

I think he was thinking about DRL (which defaults to 7.4V)

This is what I would try:

1. Clear the codes from the BCM
2. Set Left and right DRL, front and rear corner voltages to 12.2V.
3. Set Left and Right Low beam to 14V
4. Set Left and Right High beam to 14.2V

Back out of the Alfa app (i.e. make sure you see the "are you sure you want to exit" prompt)

Turn off the ignition, disconnect the interface from the truck and let it sit for a bit.

Turn the ignition on (dont start the truck) and try each signal for 10 or 15 seconds. Do not be surprised if you get one error, even on mine Ill get it once but never again as long as I leave it stored in the BCM.
 

1500ram12

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I think he was thinking about DRL (which defaults to 7.4V)

This is what I would try:

1. Clear the codes from the BCM
2. Set Left and right DRL, front and rear corner voltages to 12.2V.
3. Set Left and Right Low beam to 14V
4. Set Left and Right High beam to 14.2V

Back out of the Alfa app (i.e. make sure you see the "are you sure you want to exit" prompt)

Turn off the ignition, disconnect the interface from the truck and let it sit for a bit.

Turn the ignition on (dont start the truck) and try each signal for 10 or 15 seconds. Do not be surprised if you get one error, even on mine Ill get it once but never again as long as I leave it stored in the BCM.

I couldn't remember what the lowest setting was. I figured we'd start low and work up.


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danmit37

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I think he was thinking about DRL (which defaults to 7.4V)

This is what I would try:

1. Clear the codes from the BCM
2. Set Left and right DRL, front and rear corner voltages to 12.2V.
3. Set Left and Right Low beam to 14V
4. Set Left and Right High beam to 14.2V

Back out of the Alfa app (i.e. make sure you see the "are you sure you want to exit" prompt)

Turn off the ignition, disconnect the interface from the truck and let it sit for a bit.

Turn the ignition on (dont start the truck) and try each signal for 10 or 15 seconds. Do not be surprised if you get one error, even on mine Ill get it once but never again as long as I leave it stored in the BCM.
I can give that a try. Right now my highs and lows are factory set at the voltages you recommend. My DRL is at 7.4v, but my BCM is set to 'none' for DRL Configuration because the DRL's are not wired through the light wiring and I didn't have DRL's from factory. I will try anything at this point, but do you think changing will help if the BCM doesn't think there are DRL's?

My error stays in the BCM because I can see it in Alfa, but it clears in the cluster, so every time I use the directional, it get the bing and the error, then it clears from the cluster once the directional goes off. Part of why I want to figure out why I am getting the error...the bings are annoying every time I want to turn.
 

danmit37

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@chrisbh17 I forgot to mention...aside from the DRL voltage setting, I did try to leave the marker voltage at 12.2 with the others at settings you mentioned and HID not set, but still got error. I do think we are going down the right path with voltage settings, just don't know where to go. You guys understand electrical way more than I do.
 

1500ram12

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I can give that a try. Right now my highs and lows are factory set at the voltages you recommend. My DRL is at 7.4v, but my BCM is set to 'none' for DRL Configuration because the DRL's are not wired through the light wiring and I didn't have DRL's from factory. I will try anything at this point, but do you think changing will help if the BCM doesn't think there are DRL's?

My error stays in the BCM because I can see it in Alfa, but it clears in the cluster, so every time I use the directional, it get the bing and the error, then it clears from the cluster once the directional goes off. Part of why I want to figure out why I am getting the error...the bings are annoying every time I want to turn.

Drl's leave off, they are out of the equation. We need to figure out the voltage that your truck finds acceptable.

As chrisbh17 said. Set left/right corner voltage to 12.2v and low beam to 14v and high beam to 14.2v. Set turn park to led. Exit out of alphaobd. Wait a couple of minutes, if you can leave the door semi open. You'll hear modules start powering down. Then with the truck running, engage each signal until it hyper flashes. Turn the signal off then back on until it stops or about 20 seconds. Then use the 4 ways for 15-20 seconds. Then use the signals again.


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danmit37

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Drl's leave off, they are out of the equation. We need to figure out the voltage that your truck finds acceptable.

As chrisbh17 said. Set left/right corner voltage to 12.2v and low beam to 14v and high beam to 14.2v. Set turn park to led. Exit out of alphaobd. Wait a couple of minutes, if you can leave the door semi open. You'll hear modules start powering down. Then with the truck running, engage each signal until it hyper flashes. Turn the signal off then back on until it stops or about 20 seconds. Then use the 4 ways for 15-20 seconds. Then use the signals again.


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OK...I'll give that a try. It will be tomorrow...we are in the middle of a snowstorm right now and the wifes car pulled garage priority. lol

Thanks, guys...I'll let you know what I learn. I'll make settings, give the truck plenty of time to set, then I'll read the System ID to make sure settings took before I test. Usually the LED Parks setting on makes the problem worse (error with lights on instead of when directional are in use) but I'll try it with the voltages settings different)
 
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