Auto high beams because they only work when they feel like it and I have stock headlights...
That’s not really that “options” fault, tho. If you’re still running stock-brightness bulbs and having that problem then something is wrong with your system or your sensor.
At least with mine, it’s operation didn’t get really bad until I upgraded to my LED highbeams. Back when I was still running those Sylvania ZxE’s- their brightness is like, between the regular Sylvainia Silverstars and the Silverstar Ultras, shortly after buying my truck brand new, the auto operation of the highbeams was still normal.
...auto wipers because they like to go into hyperdrive when the rain starts and it's 3 menus deep to go into manual mode...
As I said- this, I can get behind because yes, I think they went a little crazy designing the function of these damn things. Maybe they started designing them better in the new fifth-gens.
But I’m curious- if you only need to go into the menu system ONE TIME to fully disable it then why is having to go that deep in the menu system a problem enough to complain about? I’m just curious. But then again, for the other people reading who may not know- you really don’t even need to go all the way that deep in the Uconnect settings to fully disable it if you don’t want the auto-wipers to work because when that setting is enabled, the wipers are
only in auto mode when the wiper switch is turned towards the front of the truck, one click from OFF.
We get a lot of mist here in Oklahoma, winter or summer so that right there alone, is why I don’t really care for my auto wipers but even if I didn’t have that function fully disabled, and if there might be times I’d still use it, I can still only work my wipers when I want to, rather than only being limited to when the truck thinks it needs to by leaving the switch fully off and turning the switch on to the first click and then back off when all I need is a single quick wipe.
...park sensors because they don't work in the winter and it drives me bananas when they go off while in reverse to warn of an obstacle in front of me...
This one here, I really have nothing to say against them because yes, when these things get ice on them, they don’t work. But you know, maybe that’s why they ever so conveniently used up the right-two spots on that bottom switch panel so that you can turn the front, rear or both systems off so that they for one, don’t bug the **** out of you if they have ice accumulation on them or if you have a trailer hooked up, you can turn the back ones off.
...got rid of the sat radio subscription because they took out options I really liked...
What options?
...vs the older alpine head unit making me use the touch screen more, which I'll never like the idea of on a vehicle because you have to take your eyes off the road to do anything on it vs getting to know where the buttons and switches are and doing things by feel. I've given up on warm feet in the winter because I hate having to go through the touch screen to change airflow settings, but have to start in defrost to thaw the windows initially.
You say vs the the old Alpine so, how is a satellite radio subscription involved or associated with how the 8.4 Uconnect works, to it’s predecessor?
But on to the heater; if your Auto function doesn’t seem to be doing it’s job, there’s a defrost button right there to the right of the main dial.
As far as accessing the screen that controls your HVAC, it’s one button to get to. Lol.
I still plan to disable the power tailgate because I like it unlocked with the cab locked for jobsite access without carrying my keys since I frequently remote start and/or set off the panic alarm when I keep them in my pocket so I leave them in the trailer. Why the f that can't be disabled via the head unit is beyond me. The trucks come with open backs so apart from not having your tailgate stolen it's useless for most people.
Bein’ that since almost all models from the most expensive end of the lineup to the cheaper end have electric door locks and a rear backup camera, you would think that they would’ve accounted for people who use their truck for work and put in an option to keep the tailgate lock separate from the cab. I hear ya, on this one.
But hey, as long as you don’t mind using your emergency key to lock and unlock your tailgate, getting rid of that headache is only a matter of like 8 bolts or so away to remove the access panel and then unplugging the harness to your electric actuator. Problem solved.
I never use the box lighting because I have to switch it on and off in the cab. I know the newer ones have a switch in the box, but mine does not so I keep a flashlight back there as it's just easier.
Reasonable. Maybe that’s why they finally got smart the very next year and put that neat little weatherized switch in right below one of the lights
so you don’t have to go to the cab to take advantage of those lights. But hey, if you’re pretty knowledgeable at least to be able to still use your fold-out floor with your under-seat sub box you put in, I wouldn’t think adding your own switch to that light to make it like the 18’s, would be all that difficult...[emoji41]
I never use voice controls because you can't interrupt it to do what you want and rarely does it in the end anyways.
I don’t use mine either...lol. But still no reason to opt against the finer other options of a Limited just for that.
Why is the only cig lighter outlet under the phone holder where a USB would be best. I stopped using my ipod because when I plug it into the USB that links to uconnect it doesn't charge so I have to plug it into the one beside it to charge and then use it once charged.
Since I can get a much better music-listening experience by using my phone as my iPod, I quit using my old
iPod years ago but, I’m curious as to why your USB ports under your console lid aren’t charging your iPod.... do they charge your phone? And also, which iPod are you using? I’m gonna go out on a limb and assume it’s an older one that doesn’t have Bluetooth? But still, older iPod or not, even if it was the older iPod Classic like mine, it still should charge when plugged into the USB port.
Also, as far as using a "luxury truck for work" underneath it's still a pickup and it's cheaper to make your work truck and comfortable daily driver the same vehicle than to have 2 separate vehicles. Shouldn't get a less capable truck because you spend more money on it.
Completely understandable but what gets me is when people complain when all that **** quits working from the harder use and abuse from using
that kind of truck as a work truck. But yeah, I get ya... no sense in not having a work truck and a luxury truck not in the same vehicle.
I knew going in that the only time 4wd would only work is when I didn't need it so I insisted on limited slip and I carry chains. Now the or2 air ride is a joke because once you're over 15mph it lowers. If I need the extra height because the road is rutted I need a little extra speed usually as well because it's slick. What happens is all is fine and then it auto lowers and I scrape. Then I stop, raise it again and try to get up the hill again mid way from a stop. Then the transfer case cuts out and I give up, chain up and crawl up slow, when all I needed was the suspension to just stay raised till 30mph instead of 15.
Yeah, they could’ve let that threshold be a little higher than 15 miles an hour. I get it.
But all in all, sounds like you need a specific truck that’s outside what most people would need. Maybe ordering one specifically is probably your best option. Or, look into that kit that that guy on here sells that basically takes the “auto” out of your other two modes of 4WD. Then at least that way maybe you won’t have to run chains, just some decent tires and probably won’t even have to hit certain roads so hard and fast because your system will be “tricked” into thinking your back end is slipping nonstop thus resulting in your transfer case clutch being always locked in.
But I’m curious; if you’re talking this thing up places where you need that OR2 mode, why not lift the one you got through it’s suspension?
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