Audio Upgrade for 2015

[TomT]

Sounds correct.

 

[2010 Infantry Vet]

Good call on moving to the 6 channel. One thing I would suggest, since you're already running speaker wires, is to run the new wires all the way to the speakers and not try to tie into the factory wires from the harness. It adds one less point of failure and gives you peace of mind that the wire will be able to handle the power you are throwing at it.

Also remember to leave plenty of extra wire at the back until you get your final amp layout done. Nothing sucks more than having to either re-run or splice wire because you had to move one amp a foot over.

Funny i ran all new wires from my amp to the speakers and a lot of guys said to just tap into the existing door wiring. Glad to know im not the only one that does wiring the correct way.

 

[TomT]

Once you’re in there, might as well do it right. Especially if it’s something that could cause annoying, intermittent sound issues with a loose connection. The less points of failure the better.

 

[2010 Infantry Vet]

Once you’re in there, might as well do it right. Especially if it’s something that could cause annoying, intermittent sound issues with a loose connection. The less points of failure the better.

Thats exactly why i ran all new larger gauge wires. I didnt want the wires touching/untouching while Im driving. Plus im running 170RMS to each component speaker so i needed thicker gauge wire.

 

[Witch]

Dash and sub not so bad

But that sounds like a ***** getting new wire to the doors ?

is 18 gauge enough for 75 watts RMS ?

16 gauge for the the sub at 150 RMS ?

 

[BWL]

I'm running 14 guage for the components and 10 guage to the subs, which is probably overkill, but it's only a short run so it wasn't much price difference. Bigger guage wire equals less loss over distance. Thinking I might run 12 guage to the front doors if I think I can get it in the doors without causing me too many problems.

 

[Witch]

Oh wow, that is a lot bigger than i was thinking ....

 

[BWL]

Keep in mind I'm running 200w per side for my door speakers and the amps are behind the seat so it's probably close to 10' of wire. For the power you're running i'd do 14G all around.

 

[S0CAL]

I ran 16GA to the doors and did a detailed DIY on it. I fished it thru without any cuts and left factory wiring in place. You can find it in the DIY section if you want to get an idea of what you’re in for. 14GA will be tight. I seriously doubt 12GA is doable with the way I went.

Good luck!

 

[BWL]

I ran 16GA to the doors and did a detailed DIY on it. I fished it thru without any cuts and left factory wiring in place. You can find it in the DIY section if you want to get an idea of what you’re in for. 14GA will be tight. I seriously doubt 12GA is doable with the way I went.

Good luck!

I'm thinking the same thing. I have close to 30' of 12 guage kicking around from my home audio system so I'll try it and if it doesn't fit I'll go 14, which is what I bought for the install already not realizing I already had a bunch of 12. The 10 guage for the sub is just what I've always done.

 

[2010 Infantry Vet]

I used 14G wire from my amp behind the seat, to all of my speakers. Didnt have any problems.

 

[Witch]

what does the factory use ? is it crap ?

 

[BWL]

Factory wire is good wire, but only heavy enough for the factory amp power. Looks about 18 guage to me. It'll work with your set up, but there will be loss due to the restriction. 16 would be a big improvement and do the job, but 14 is probably best. With 100w rms or less anything over 14 won't give you any noticeable improvement so isn't worth the effort in your case. I'm running more than double the power that you are for front doors so 14 is the good enough in my opinion and 12 would be best for them and 14 for the rest since they're in the 100W range. All based on my own research and opinion.

 

[BWL]

I ran 16GA to the doors and did a detailed DIY on it. I fished it thru without any cuts and left factory wiring in place. You can find it in the DIY section if you want to get an idea of what you’re in for. 14GA will be tight. I seriously doubt 12GA is doable with the way I went.

Good luck!

Watched your video and it looks pretty straight forward, but I may go through a box of band aids. Looks like going that way I can't unplug and remove doors any more though so I have a question. Were there any spare spots in the harnesses? I have a few mopar harness pins I could solder to speaker wire. Not sure where to find more, but if I can was thinking I could just pin into and use the existing harnesses rather than sneaking through them.

 

[S0CAL]

Yes in the rear but I don’t recall seeing them in the front connectors.

 

[Witch]

This sound deadening is a pain, but wow !!!

I am hearing some nice results, I think it cuts down on road noise a little as well. Door feels like it can stop a bullet

It is like closing the door on a Bentley, had to double the weight of the door ..........

Had the opportunity to meet as guy in the industry on Saturday. Ata from Absolute Electronics in Rockville MD.

Very cool guy, listened to a lot of speakers and he let me listen to his ride as well, wow best audio I have ever heard. Crazy ass system

He gave me some tips on the install and now looks like I am getting rid of the 3.5" and 6x9's up front

Going with a 6x9 component and placing the tweeters in the dash running active , There goes the budget .........

Never heard anything quite like these before , they are called Audio Frog ?

Was just blown away with these after listening to some other solutions

Hoping I can finish up the doors this week end, Still aiming for mid May to install the amp and DSR1 as long as the weather cooperates


https://www.audiofrog.com/gs690-6-x-9-premium-grade-automotive-woofermidrange-loudspeaker/


https://www.audiofrog.com/gs10-1-25mm-premium-grade-automotive-tweeter/

 

[BWL]

The soundproofing makes a big difference. Most of my truck is done now. Just the roof left. I went with a lesser known brand for my mids and highs because the sounded incredible as well. Too bad mine weren't cheaper. I noticed the 6X9s were 4 ohm and could handle 100w. What amp are you running? I thought it was an XD600.6 so if you can get those in 2ohm you'd get more out of them.

 

[TomT]

Audiofrog is a great choice!!!

 

[Witch]

The soundproofing makes a big difference. Most of my truck is done now. Just the roof left. I went with a lesser known brand for my mids and highs because the sounded incredible as well. Too bad mine weren't cheaper. I noticed the 6X9s were 4 ohm and could handle 100w. What amp are you running? I thought it was an XD600.6 so if you can get those in 2ohm you'd get more out of them.

yes I have the XD600.0, 75 watts per channel

I am not sure if they can run two ohm ? I would have to ask him , but wouldn't that dou8b l;e it and do 150 wqatt's per channel ?


Thanks Tom, never heard of them before Saturday, but wow they sound incredible

 

[TomT]

Are you running them fully active? If so, you could pair the 6x9 midbass with a GB15 tweeter (1.5” vs 1”) which will play lower than the GS10. That way you wouldn’t be relying on the 6x9 to play the highest midrange. I’d bet that would be a pretty amazing combination.

Of course, they are twice the price of the GS10s. I’m solidly in the buy once, cry once category though.
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_898GB15/Audiofrog-GB15.html