Big 3 upgrade questions

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adurm

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Doing a big 3 upgrade on a 15 rcsb hemi. I know I go battery positive to alt positive. Battery negative to battery ground which is right next to the battery on the fender. But then what?

I found a ground at the frame behind the left fender that I think the alt grounds to. I was going to run a wire from battery neg to that. Then I read about going engine block to frame. I'm confused.

Any help is appreciated, pictures even more so.
 

WadXpress

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I can take pictures tomorrow.you can do engine block to frame or the alt case to the battery
 

charonblk07

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Alternator to battery, battery to frame, frame to block. The real negative for the truck is the housing of the alternator, not the battery negative.


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adurm

adurm

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Alternator to battery, battery to frame, frame to block. The real negative for the truck is the housing of the alternator, not the battery negative.


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Is there a specific bolt on the block and/or frame I should use?
 
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adurm

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I read that it should help with the charging system overall as well as the headlight dimming. I don't have a huge amount of wattage (1000-1200) or add on electronics (xbox, tv screens, etc) so I don't expect a big difference. I just had a big 3 kit hanging out in the garage for months and figured I would use it. I also read that it may make the headlights dim worse in some cases, maybe the amps can more easily draw power.
 

SitKneelBend

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I did just ground from alternator to body and removed paint from the factory grounds under the hood. Immediately noticed my Kicker upgrade sub hitting harder/clearer.

I would love to see more pictures and detailed description of the positive side. I have the cables but didn't want to mess with the positive side without more guidance (read guinea pigs)...

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gofishn

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So what does this upgrade do other than offer a better ground??

Like Water, Electricity take the path of least Resistance. All wire has some resistance, due to it's physical make-up/properties. As the Amperage/ Load increases, so too does resistance, as well as Heat generation. IE: Wire heats up, causing even more resistance, causing more heat, etc.

By placing additional wire, next to existing wire, the electrical system now has more overall wire upon wish it can run. Not only can it run faster, but it will not generate as much heat, nor take as much effort to move from one place to the next.

Think Roadways here. ie: Narrow street vs German Autobahn

While we are on the wire subject. Thicker wire , generally, will allow for the transfer of more amperage than thinner wire. Too, thicker wire will transfer amperages faster than thinner wire, again, not unlike a narrow street causing a traffic slow down vs a wide open throughway with no traffic.

Knowing this, when using wire that will handle an amperage load, go with the thickest wire you can find, for that usage. As in Jumper Cables.

Want proof of this informational tidbit? Look at the wire around your home. Toaster has decently thick wire, more so than your huge 60" LCD screen. Same for the Curling Iron. Reason being they pull amps.

Now look at the wire that comes into your home, form the pole, Darn thick. Reason being is that wire carries all the Amp load, for your entire house.


PS
Every company is all about PROFIT!! They cut corners, saving every possible penny, at every possible location, Your trucks wiring is on such corner.
Today's companies no longer truly care about quality, longevity, dependability or corporate reputation.
Just good enough usually means something can be made better and the BIG THREE MOD is one of those times.

Like the Under hood Light , for an Express. Cabin Filter, for all our trucks, the Big 3 Mod is something, that once done, you will mostly forget you did it but be so glad you did.

....and I still have not got around to doing it, myself.

Shameful . . . .
 
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