Blackstone - used oil analysis

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tron67j

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20-500 is good, as long as that one wasn't on this report, which is correct I believe. In fact if you can source those at a decent price, they store well, just saying. The 10-48 was always a problem filter, just because it worked on some vehicles doesn't mean it should have been. I mean Amsoil actually said don't use it eventhough most customers say it's good, the problem is when it is bad, it is a bad low pressure situation. I think you have enough to go on, looking for the 2k uoa GL bro. With that 20-500 that will tell us a story on that uoa.
Let's hope with the 20-500 now we don't see the same results. Last 2 oil changes were the 10-48. Just hope there isn't too much damage. I will probably buy the tools and run them in a few weeks when I have some time off. Now can't get this out of my mind.
 

tron67j

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When you'd go a week or so without starting it would you get any startup clatter when you did?
I never noticed any, and I generally listen for it. But not going to let it sit like that again. Was just a weird winter and didn't go anywhere for the longest time, just drove my beater to work.
 

White six four

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If it did clatter I could possibly see that as causing damage even though ram claims its normal. Be interesting to see your next uoa. Hopefully its back to normal.
 

Burla

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Let's hope with the 20-500 now we don't see the same results. Last 2 oil changes were the 10-48. Just hope there isn't too much damage. I will probably buy the tools and run them in a few weeks when I have some time off. Now can't get this out of my mind.
So let me purpose this, pull the oil control valve and look for metal. If no metal then it hints that this issue is small micron wear and not an immediate threat. Then perhaps you will feel more comfortable going the 2k miles. Mind you that you haven't mentioned misfire, so I assume you don't have one. Because even if you do the other tests then what? You still need to pull the oil control valve to see if you can fix it or replace it if other tests are even positive.

just curious, why did you go 20-500?
.
 

Burla

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btw, you know you can send a sample w/o changing oil as well. Go the 2k miles send the sample off and just top off what you lost to fill the sample cup. Many guys do this anyhow, all the time
 

tron67j

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So let me purpose this, pull the oil control valve and look for metal. If no metal then it hints that this issue is small micron wear and not an immediate threat. Then perhaps you will feel more comfortable going the 2k miles. Mind you that you haven't mentioned misfire, so I assume you don't have one. Because even if you do the other tests then what? You still need to pull the oil control valve to see if you can fix it or replace it if other tests are even positive.

just curious, why did you go 20-500?
.
To get to the valve, it appears I need to remove the intake manifold correct? I have looked online and see no videos or instructions on what except is involved. I am fairly mechanically inclined but I also have the ability to find the rustiest, most stuck on bolts known to mankind. I also am not 100% sure what the repair would do by replacing that part, are you saying that it's possible that it's clogged with metal bits that's preventing proper oil flow? I obviously don't understand this whole system even though I have been reading about it here for years.

I went with the 20-500 due to a conversation on here a few years back when the actual RP filter that was called for wasn't in stock.
 

EdGs

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@tron67j, have you cut open your oil filter yet?

Before I figured out I had a lifter/cam issue, I cut open a previously used oil filter, and I did find metal in it.

But I did not have a proper oil filter cutter, so I'm sure I introduced a liitle extra metal into the filter. But it did have glitter in it, and I did find a liitle metal on my VVT solenoid, too.

20250525_095301.jpg20250525_095807.jpg20250525_095301(1).jpg

Cutting open the filter first might give you a clue before removing the intake.

Watch the little wire harness clips for the MDS/VVT harness that are clipped on the MDS solenoid studs. Mine crumbled. I would remove them if you do remove the intake.
 

Burla

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To get to the valve, it appears I need to remove the intake manifold correct? I have looked online and see no videos or instructions on what except is involved. I am fairly mechanically inclined but I also have the ability to find the rustiest, most stuck on bolts known to mankind. I also am not 100% sure what the repair would do by replacing that part, are you saying that it's possible that it's clogged with metal bits that's preventing proper oil flow? I obviously don't understand this whole system even though I have been reading about it here for years.

I went with the 20-500 due to a conversation on here a few years back when the actual RP filter that was called for wasn't in stock.
I do not know on the 6.4, I will see if I can find something. The OEM uses whether metal is on that item if there is a problem and if the engine is savable. It should be a one star job usually, rock it back and forth when pulling it. Just a minor suggestion not a big deal yet. I found a some video of a girl doing this, but I cant find one for a 6.4.


 
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tron67j

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@tron67j, have you cut open your oil filter yet?

Before I figured out I had a lifter/cam issue, I cut open a previously used oil filter, and I did find metal in it.

But I did not have a proper oil filter cutter, so I'm sure I introduced a liitle extra metal into the filter. But it did have glitter in it, and I did find a liitle metal on my VVT solenoid, too.

View attachment 583535View attachment 583537View attachment 583536

Cutting open the filter first might give you a clue before removing the intake.

Watch the little wire harness clips for the MDS/VVT harness that are clipped on the MDS solenoid studs. Mine crumbled. I would remove them if you do remove the intake.
I didn't save the filter, didn't think I would be wondering about my engine at 31k.
 

HEMIMANN

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Yikes. Best of luck. I have no idea where the oil control valve is on the 6.4L

Sure doesn't look good on the VVT solenoid, though. Man.
 

HEMIMANN

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The 6.4 calls for the small RP? Had you used that before? What's on there now? Even good filters can have defect, if this was the issue.

Yeah I see that is crazy, much smaller then the xg2 the 10060. I cant believe they put that on the 6.4. Hope isn't a strategy, but I hope this is the case. Can you see the butt plate on the filter? Is there 1/2 inch or so, the xg2 is .66 wider, if you can use that I would. Everything else should be good. I think hemimann used the 20-500 for this reason, sadly doubt that is still around. I can tell you that 10060 is a restrictive filter, even had a tsb, here is there clone to your filter..

The AMSOIL Ea15K50 filter warning, largely active around 2021, concerns potential low oil pressure issues, particularly in 2013-2018 RAM 1500/2500 trucks (5.7L/6.4L HEMI engines

This is a clone filter to rp10060. @HEMIMANN what are his options for a larger filter?

Ebay has a couple/few rp20-500 for around 50 bucks. In this case I'd get one, because if this is the issue, you can rock on bypass it for future. Worth the squeeze if a filter terns out to be the issue. 20-500 for a run would verify. We know the 20-500 fits the 6.4.

Yeah, RP 20-500 is the mid-size filter, same dia but longer. The RP 20-820 is the larger diameter filter that didn't fit MY 6.4L (lower molded radiator hose interference).

The equivalent Fram midsize is 10575, not 10060. And then XG2 is the RP 20-820 equivalent.

I stocked up on Fram FE 10575, but not enough (not expecting plant closing). So I bought a bunch of RP 20-500, also.
 

tron67j

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So, I am a bit away from getting the 2k on my truck. But wondering what the thoughts are on how much damage I might have done already. I don't know what the value of iron means in terms of accelerated wear had begun and in the next 20-40k miles I could be clattering away. Or am I looking at a failure mich sooner. I am wondering if my not running regular over about 2 months caused enough oil to run off parts to cause the wear on start up but now running regular will stop or at least retard damage do I can keep truck for another 10 years without an engine rebuild. I have been doing some research but, you know, the Internet....

I know more might come from the boroscope and pressure test. Sorry, traveling a lot for a while and hard to find time to even do laundry so maybe they important set of tasks would allow a more refined answer.
 

HEMIMANN

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Generally, unless something has completely let go, iron comes from cylinder liners mostly, and to a lesser extent cam lobes and rollers. Not much from timing chain.

Cylinder liners are the main wear part in recip engines. Controlled wear, via cross hatch honing. If engine is broken in right (even if factory does dual honing), it will be 'tight' and not use oil or wear much. If you have a big spike in iron wear just due to changing oil, it is likely accelerated liner wear. i.e. - the viscosity and/or additives aren't sufficient to control wear sufficiently. That's we we talk about optimal viscosity (generally settled on here @ SAE 30 for normal use, 40 for high temp high load use), and of course high additives to control wear on poorly-oiled cam and lifter rollers in Hemi engines.
 

Burla

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We just have to ride with what is at this point, lets verify the result. Like Brian was saying those parts plus you had a small chromium reading, which adds credibility to the high iron reading. So I'm doubting there is a false reading here, but you still have a punchers chance it was the filter. We had been trying to alert people for years about that filter. If you have flow restriction the engine wear is increased. The one good thing is chromium is low, so maybe the issue is not fatal yet.
 

Burla

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I went back and looked, you have small chromium which is likely from rings, and an increased alum reading which is almost always a cold/dry start situation in the hemi. And the iron reading was not that far off from two changes ago, about double. So in my opinion we are looking a poor flow at start up issue that just arrived in your hemi this oci. It is very likely you have little to no "damage" at this point, perhaps some minor scuffing. Plus this oci is coming right after winter, which can increase dry start up wear.
 

Fightinbass

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First UOA I have ever had done, sample collected during my latest oil change a couple weeks ago. Looking for comments and suggestions.

This vehicle (2018 pentastar) has been run mostly with pennzoil platinum 5w-20 and mopar MO-349 filter, including at least the last 6 oil changes. This truck has been fed nothing other than regular unleaded gas (87 octane), and no oil or fuel additives whatsoever. My typical OCI has been 5,000 - 6,000 miles.

Wondering about the fuel dilution. It was a very cold winter here and the truck saw lots of short trips.
2026_04 UOA.jpg
 

ramffml

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First UOA I have ever had done, sample collected during my latest oil change a couple weeks ago. Looking for comments and suggestions.

This vehicle (2018 pentastar) has been run mostly with pennzoil platinum 5w-20 and mopar MO-349 filter, including at least the last 6 oil changes. This truck has been fed nothing other than regular unleaded gas (87 octane), and no oil or fuel additives whatsoever. My typical OCI has been 5,000 - 6,000 miles.

Wondering about the fuel dilution. It was a very cold winter here and the truck saw lots of short trips.
View attachment 583899

I don't know much about the 3.6 but in my 5.7 I had a little more fuel dilution in the winter for 2024 to 2025 than I did from summer of 2025 (so it went back down again). More remote starts/idling for me in the winter so lots of short trips could definitely do it.
 

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