Very True
Buy a Built one and keep your stocker for a spare
DIY replacing a $100 worth of OD frictions means less down time
(not to mention saving thousands of dollars in labor)
A Buddy and I just rebuilt my stock trans clutches by installing fresh frictions/steels
with just basic hand tools a manual and a youtube video
Drained Trans, Removed all the sensors, then the pan
and left the rear section on, since we don't need access the low/reverse sprag
Valve Body out
Pump Out
1st drum assembly out that houses the OD and UD frictions/steels
Cracked the drum open to pull out the frictions and steels
Burned up Over Drive frictions/steels came out first
Going in for the Under Drive Frictions
Under Drive frictions and steels were flawless
Next drum to come out holds the 2c frictions and steels,
But first we swapped the replacement OD frictions/steels Mike sent,
Re-installed my good UD frictions/steels and closed up the first drum.
(to minimize the amount of frictions,steels,bearings and snap rings sitting around loose.)
I sent a quick text to Mike to ask if it was still necessary to go onto the next set,
because the U/D frictions looked so clean, He replied right away, Yes 2C can often be the worst
...he was right.
Pulled the 2C frictions/steels, steels were burned up pretty bad, chunks missing out the frictions
Swapped the ones Mike sent me and re-installed the housing and snap rings
Everything went back in just about as easy as it came out,
Pretty much impossible to do incorrectly because the snap rings wont line up
with the grooves if you got something in the wrong order/position.
Total bench time, not counting a pizza break was probably an hour and a bit.
...and most of that was mopping up fluid and cleaning the old RTV off the pan.
Within the next week or two we'll drop the L&M trans out of my truck
and replace the OD frictions in the first drum assembly.
Filters and Fluid ready to go,
just waiting on my header collector flange/reducers.