Brake questions

[Dbow20]

I recently flushed and replaced the brake fluid in my 2014 Cummins and I am now noticing the pedal will press all the way to the floor when the engine is not running. I can’t remember what it was like before I did the brake fluid flush so I can’t remember if this is normal or if I did something wrong.

Should the brake pedal go to the floor when the engine is not running?

 

[crash68]

Running or not the pedal shouldn't go-to the floor. Being you just flushed the system, I would suspect air in the system?

 

[RamCares]

I recently flushed and replaced the brake fluid in my 2014 Cummins and I am now noticing the pedal will press all the way to the floor when the engine is not running. I can’t remember what it was like before I did the brake fluid flush so I can’t remember if this is normal or if I did something wrong.

Should the brake pedal go to the floor when the engine is not running?

Hi Dbow20,

I'm sorry to hear of the trouble you are experiencing with your truck. I know that you are reaching out to fellow forum members on this, however, please let us know if you end up addressing this with your dealer. We would be more than happy to provide you with an additional layer of support for that process.

Mark
RamCares

 

[Nick@GotExhaust]

NO, it should not go to the floor. My pedal I can fit my work boot under the pedal easily while the pedal is fully depressed. I am thinking you may still have air in the lines and you need to bleed the brakes again

 

[512RAM]

Bleed those brakes!

 

[Dbow20]

Ok, I went ahead and tried bleeding them again and it is slightly better but still more pedal travel than I think there should be. There is no fluid leaking so I know it must be air in the system just stuck somewhere or maybe a bad master cylinder? How do I diagnose If it’s a bad master cylinder?

I have new pads on the way so I will also install those When they arrive and see if there is any change.

 

[hotrod45]

Unless there were symptoms before you started this procedure, no, the master cylinder is not bad. I've seen difficulties come from not bleeding the brakes in the proper sequence.

 

[turkeybird56]

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Wat HOTROD said: Bleeding properly and sequence. IIRK, U have to bleed the line ref Master Cylinder also, but I have not played with any of these new systems specifically yet, lots of Youtube and other info, U need to research. U usually bleed from the furthest to the closest...

 

[superjoe83]

Did you let the master cylinder run dry at any time during the bleeding process?

 

[Dbow20]

Thanks for the replies. When bleeding I started at the back right and worked my way forward from farthest to closest.
I pulled most of the old fluid out of the tank with a turkey baster and then bled the back right caliper with just a few pumps then I put new fluid in the tank. I didn’t let the fluid get too low in the tank so I don’t think I let the master cylinder run dry.

 

[Dbow20]

Did you let the master cylinder run dry at any time during the bleeding process?

I don’t think so. I pulled the old fluid out but didn’t let it get too low in the tank before adding new brake fluid.
Would this have ruined the master cylinder or just introduced air that I would have to get out?

 

[Dbow20]

Is there any way to bleed the MC while it is still on the truck or do I have to remove it and bench bleed?

 

[bruce219]

Its air,takes two people to bleed them properly,one on the pedal and other on the bleed screws.

 

[Dbow20]

Its air,takes two people to bleed them properly,one on the pedal and other on the bleed screws.

i installed speed bleeders on all four calipers so I don’t think it’s air at the caliper. I also can’t get any air bubbles at the caliper when I bleed it there so I’m wondering if it’s the ABS that has air or the MC.

 

[madtrucker2016]

Do not drive the truck like that until it feels like it did before you messed with it. You must have some large amount of air in the system . you need two people to do it if you don't have a auto bleeder. also keep watching the master to keep brake fluid in the unit. start from the pass.side back then drive side back then front pass side then drive side front .good luck also pump slow not like a nut

 

[madtrucker2016]

i installed speed bleeders on all four calipers so I don’t think it’s air at the caliper. I also can’t get any air bubbles at the caliper when I bleed it there so I’m wondering if it’s the ABS that has air or the MC.

another guy was talking about those bleeders and he said they dont make them for the Ram truck so maybe you have the wrong part on the brakes and its sucking air in

 

[novelmike]

My only experience with bleeding brakes are with race cars and motorcycles; and I’m probably due for a brake flush on my truck by the way. From what I’ve noticed is once they seem back to normal and good, keep going. Keeping pumping the fluid through the lines. It’ll help! You’re still saving a bunch of money doing it yourself over paying a shop to do it. And wasting a quart of brake fluid isn’t much when it’s going to last for years and thousands of miles.

 

[hotrod45]

Get access to a proper manual and check the sequence for your specific vehicle. I have seen vehicles that do not follow common reasoning. Also check to see what other bleeders might be in the system, such as something in the ABS or who knows what. The symptoms say that there is still air in the system.

 

[Dbow20]

Thanks for all the replies.
I guess it is possible that the speed bleeder screws I have are the wrong part but I don’t think so. I checked the size of the stock screw and ordered the speed bleeder in the same size.
I am going to pull the MC and bench bleed it to see if that is where the air is. Maybe during the fluid flush I let it get to low. If that doesn’t solve the issue I will go back to the old bleeder screw to see if that is where the problem is.

 

[hotrod45]

Removing the master cylinder and bench bleeding it accomplishes two things only: it assures the mechanic that there will be a ***minimum*** of air in the system when the master cylinder is installed and that the brake fluid in that cylinder will allow the bleeding process to start without reintroducing air into the system. In other words, the master cylinder has to be filled with brake fluid in order for the brake pedal to have any effect. Thus removing the master cylinder at this point accomplishes nothing. It's important to realize that any air anywhere in the brake system is a problem and you get rid of it by bleeding in the proper sequence and making sure at the same time that you never deplete the fluid in the master cylinder. If the master cylinder is removed, you will introduce air in the brake line when you re-install the cylinder. That air has to move the full length of the tubing and exit through a bleeder. There are no shortcuts.