Changed diff fluid today

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badfish888

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Had about 30k miles on the royal purple max gear. Didn't pull the cover this time. I ran about 10 miles to heat up the fluid and suspend the particulates.
Jacked up the left side to try to get as much as possible out. Fluid was gray, Smelt ok but looked very dirty for 30k. Fine metal partials. Nothing crazy.
Leveled truck out and topped off with 2 quarts of RP 75-140 and the 4 oz of mopar limited slip additive. Checked the front. Fluid still looks new. Nice purple color. So I left it in there. Any reason for the crazy difference. I hardly use 4wd. But the gears are still moving?
 

Jmhm17

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I assume its due to heat, the rear diff endures 100% load where as the front is just hanging on for the ride, it still gets warm but not as much as the rear.

It could also be the additive causing the difference in color.

Isnt there an LSD additive already in RP tho? I dont see why you would need to add the mopar stuff if your using RP.
 

QwikKota

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Was it all the way full? My Dakota typically used 3 quarts but I could be wrong. Now I have an LPW aftermarket pan on there. Dang thing holds 5 quarts. The new diffs have a drain plug correct?
 

jlb

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Front gears don't move when not in 4x4. The axles disengage as does the transfer case.
 

R/T_Fire

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Wash it milky grey? usually grey indicates water in the oil and can cause damage, could be from driving through waster and it getting in the vent or even condensation inside the rear diff. if its all clean now you shouldn't have an issue.
 

JasonK94Z

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Front gears don't move when not in 4x4. The axles disengage as does the transfer case.

I'm about 99% sure this is wrong. The transfer case disengages, but the front drive shaft, front differential, and front half shafts still spin while driving.

In order to do what you described, you'd need manual hubs.
 

HammerHead

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The difference is Heat. Using the rear every time you drive and not using the 4x4 as much.
 

pickupman66

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I'm about 99% sure this is wrong. The transfer case disengages, but the front drive shaft, front differential, and front half shafts still spin while driving.

In order to do what you described, you'd need manual hubs.

jack up the front of your truck and spin spin your wheels. you can feel them free spin when in 2wd. the put it in 4wd auto. you will then see the axel hook up and the front shaft spin.

then in 4wd, it shoudl all be lock ed up and you cant rotate the tires.

if the front dif was always engaged to the wheels would the two tires spin opposite each other?
 

OutlawTrucker

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I'm about 99% sure this is wrong. The transfer case disengages, but the front drive shaft, front differential, and front half shafts still spin while driving.

In order to do what you described, you'd need manual hubs.



This is true. My 96 ZJ is the same way. Front drive gear is turning but not being powered by the engine.
 

AzRamLover

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I'm about 99% sure this is wrong. The transfer case disengages, but the front drive shaft, front differential, and front half shafts still spin while driving.

In order to do what you described, you'd need manual hubs.

I think this is accurate for MY < 2013. IIRC, for MY2013+, the front drive shaft, diff, and half shafts no longer turn in 2WD (or in 4WD Hi until slippage is detected).

Feel free to correct me if I'm mistaken.
 

JasonK94Z

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It only gets engaged/disengaged at the transfer case!
Take off a front wheel and show me where the magical locking/unlocking hub is. Tip: you can't because there isn't one.
 

jwheeler

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It only gets engaged/disengaged at the transfer case!
Take off a front wheel and show me where the magical locking/unlocking hub is. Tip: you can't because there isn't one.


Put your head under your truck once in a while. Your truck doesn't have a disconnect on the RF axle?




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