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yes and no.
Oil does "shear down" to lighter weight over time. So it could start as 0W-40 and then shear down to a heavy 0W-30. Lab analysis would show it as a 30w, does FCA then deny based on that? The owner should fight that, especially if they have proof of using 40w to start with.
One can use dealer services for all their repair and maintenance.The thing is all that higher costs add up.I could take all those high dollar dealer prices,go somewhere else and pay for a new motor when needed with the savings and not fool with the crooks.Dealers mark up parts so bad.And people want to believe that those parts are so much better.If they are then why do carmakers have so many recalls on those great parts that come on their vehicles? Breaking timing chains,burning alternators and bad waterpumps.Yep,gonna use dealer oem on my truck...they the best. Lol
I don't disagree but the point is that a dealer can't automatically assume the viscosity used was incorrect, just based on a uoa.Sorry, but if an oil is so crappy that it’s shears down that much within the recommended OCI... I’m pretty sure that oil didn’t meet specs.
OR
It wasn’t changed when it needed to be.
Either way- owner’s issue.
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You can get or only save $10 on oil changes?That’s a LOT of oil changes at $10-15 each in “saving so to buy a new engine when it craps out and isn’t covered because the wrong oil was used in your attempts to save a few bucks.
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Since the op is long gone. I'll share my 2 cents worth of mobil 1 extended performance. Had my 07 pontiac g5 with the 2.2 for almost 8 years now. Got it with 55k it now has 209k. Wife's 15 outlander sport bought new now has 121k on it. Both vehicles have mostly ran mobil 1 extended performance with 10k oci. When mobil 1 wasn't available I'd get Castrol edge extended performance and run it the same 10k interval. Only happened twice on the g5 and once with the outlander sport. Both motors have never had or have any noises besides the noisy 2.0 mitsubishi injectors. Neither leak or burn any oil. Both obviously aren't high horsepower or race cars since there's factory atvs and snowmobiles that have more horsepower then they do but knock on wood it's worked so far. The g5 work beater still has the original clutch unless it was changed before I bought it. The ram has no noises now so I'm sticking with 0w40 pup with 10oz lubegard every 5k
You can get or only save $10 on oil changes?
Nice of you to tell me that your local dealer is 10-15 more than the independent.I change my own oil at less than 25 bucks,and refuse to pay 50 dollars at the independent or the dealer.Sigh...Sigh... the cost of dealership oil change at my local dealer is between $10-15 more than an oil change by a small business independent guy near me.
Or I can buy oil and filter, and do it myself... and the cost difference is not much more.
But nice of you to not read an entire post in its context.
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GM also recommended mobil 1 in the ecotec cars. I had a few Cobalt SS cars. Most of the guys that I know that still have them refuse to run it in them.
It's worked good so far for me in those 2 cars but I do think mobil 1 is stuck in the past and hasn't really done anything to make their oil any better in awhile. If I cared about those 2 cars like my ram I probably wouldn't be using it. When my son and I are done restoring our Talon tsi that will not getting mobil 1 either.
Mobil 1 was ahead of its time. It just failed to keep up. I do I have a feeling like Fast and The Furious was sponsored by Mobil 1 lol.
This.
Its probably not a bad oil right now either. But there are better and M1 "cheapened" like the rest of the market as well.