Core 4x4 reinstallation.

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ram1500rsm

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Definetely like Redsrt4me indicated, if you can add a large enough washer to protect the bushing from the edges of the mount that will be gold. As a reference this is the gap i have in my mounts with Clayton and that's torqued to 195ft/lbs. Like the JJ side on the Core ones there is a mile of clearance between the mounts and the bushings can deflect side to side without any rubbing. You can also upgrade those Core T3 to T4's and you won't have to worry about those poly bushings ever again. It's not Core's fault.., any type of poly bushing where the sleeve sits flush with the bushing will more likely have the same fate in this application.

Lower Frame side
50755282021_aa9c872459_k.jpg2020-12-24_09-08-51 by RAM RSM, on Flickr

Lower Axel side
50755282436_5744a98123_k.jpg2020-12-24_09-08-59 by RAM RSM, on Flickr

Upper Axel side , and it looks the same on the frame side as well.
50755283016_ef43b8a1e4_k.jpg2020-12-24_09-09-07 by RAM RSM, on Flickr
 

electricyeti

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I swapped them around quite a while ago. Those pics are from October a year ago.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
 

ram1500rsm

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Simple because you have to ask it is your axle that moves or your frame? Which part is designed to move? Again if you have need for more movement do tier 4 and get JJ's on both sides.

I don't have data to support my statement but
speaking from my own experience the poly bushings were trashed being installed on the axle side. Core replaced them and it was enough for me to flip the JJ to the axle side.

If anyone is bored enough throw a go pro on the rear suspension and record findings.
Hi Red. bringing this from the past to show you where the bushings put out the flex. I was doing some testing today with my Jeep and the bushings happened to be there to show me how they react to one wheel drooping so i thought about this thread :)

51694402784_af2f8b6554_h.jpg20211120_123420 by RAM RSM, on Flickr

51694402799_aa2ee7639d_h.jpg20211120_123257 by RAM RSM, on Flickr


My lowers arms are all Clayton overland+ with the Giiro bushings, the uppers are factory clevite.
So with one wheel droop:

Rear lower at frame side, look at how much that bushing is doing the work.
51692928752_4cee2b3f66_h.jpg20211120_112547 by RAM RSM, on Flickr

Rear upper Frame side, the lowers flex a lot more than the uppers but even then look at how the bushing is binding a little since clevite doesn't twist side to side like flex joints do
51694400469_1dd2e5b5a2_h.jpg20211120_112431 by RAM RSM, on Flickr

Now lets look at the axel side
Rear lower at frame side, there is a little flex there, but it's not the same as what we see in the frame. I'll say it's virtually nothing in there.
51694611700_82e7907acb_h.jpg20211120_112637 by RAM RSM, on Flickr

Rear Upper axel side, little flex as well.
51693722716_ebd63fd50d_h.jpg
20211120_112420 by RAM RSM, on Flickr

The stock rear shocks on my Jeep were 22 1/8" extended, the current rears are 26" so they're literally 4" longer than stock. I'd think this is why mostly every other manufacturer out there with rare exceptions put the flex joint in the frame side.
Sorry it took me a year to be bothered enough to do the test :)
 
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RedSRT4Me

RedSRT4Me

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Hi Red. bringing this from the past to show you where the bushings put out the flex. I was doing some testing today with my Jeep and the bushings happened to be there to show me how they react to one wheel drooping so i thought about this thread :)

View attachment 47784320211120_123420 by RAM RSM, on Flickr

View attachment 47784220211120_123257 by RAM RSM, on Flickr


My lowers arms are all Clayton overland+ with the Giiro bushings, the uppers are factory clevite.
So with one wheel droop:

Rear lower at frame side, look at how much that bushing is doing the work.
View attachment 47783520211120_112547 by RAM RSM, on Flickr

Rear upper Frame side, the lowers flex a lot more than the uppers but even then look at how the bushing is binding a little since clevite doesn't twist side to side like flex joints do
View attachment 47783620211120_112431 by RAM RSM, on Flickr

Now lets look at the axel side
Rear lower at frame side, there is a little flex there, but it's not the same as what we see in the frame. I'll say it's virtually nothing in there.
View attachment 47783720211120_112637 by RAM RSM, on Flickr

Rear Upper axel side, little flex as well.
View attachment 477838
20211120_112420 by RAM RSM, on Flickr

The stock rear shocks on my Jeep were 22 1/8" extended, the current rears are 26" so they're literally 4" longer than stock. I'd think this is why mostly every other manufacturer out there with rare exceptions put the flex joint in the frame side.
Sorry it took me a year to be bothered enough to do the test :)

I have a couple torn Johnny joints that need to be replaced anyway. What's flipping them one more time gonna hurt?
 

ram1500rsm

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I have a couple torn Johnny joints that need to be replaced anyway. What's flipping them one more time gonna hurt?
Nothing really. put the JJ on the frame and the flexy join on the axel if you have the T3's, watch your torque on those bolts for the axel.
For those with T2's, put the flexy joint in the frame and the clevite on the axel.

Have fun fellas.
 
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