Core 4x4 reinstallation.

[RedSRT4Me]

This post is for the off-roaders.

My setup is the Tier 3 5 link system in red.

Now originally I installed the bars with the Johnny Joints attached to the frame. For my intent and purpose this is wrong. It's wrong in my situation for one simple reason. I need the flex of the Johnny Joints doing work on the axle not on the frame.

So while reinstalling the bars I came across another helpful tip that will save you guys time and headache. You must grease the bushings before torquing them down. If you do this backwards you'll end up destroying the bushing. The throughbolt must be in but not torqued. Grease your bushing till you see it start to expand. Then torque it down.

I know torque specs have been an issue as of late. I try to stick to factory. I torqued them to 180ftlbs.

Happy modding

 

[Longhorn1500]

Interesting, thank you for the information.

 

[Graygoose]

they look good!

 

[GIJoe2010]

Is that Pro Comp rear control arm bracket available separately?

 

[Lyle Longboat]

I’m Going 135ft/lbs On my arms with the grease on the bushings. That’s a great tip!

 

[ram1500rsm]

What issue were you trying to address reversing the install ? Ive always put the JJs on the frame per manufacturers recommendation.Talk to Core and ask them if they foresee any issues running the JJ's on the axel with the poly bushing in the frame. I think with Tier 3 you get a flex bushing so you should be ok having them in the frame. You axel pivots from the frame so that's how i always saw it where to put the flexier end. No very scientific of course but because i don't know any better i always followed the manufcturer recommendation as well, All of them will tell you where and how to locate their arms/ bushings and almost all manufacturers advise putting the JJ on the frame.

Also from my Jeep world, you guys are all putting those zerks facing down ? there seems to be plenty of room to put them facing up and and away from rock zerk eaters , damn things are always hungry around here... worst case you can get 90 angle zerks if you think pumping grease with them facing up will be a challenge.

Interesting to note the torque you used. Per another Core thread yesterday the dude said Core uses 135ft/lbs? which i thought was very little considering the factory calls for 200ft/lbs. you also mentioned torque has been an issue with Core arms lately.. why ? Core could clarify any questions regarding how much torque to put on those bushings. Honestly this is the first time i've used control arms that need 200ft/lbs of torque, but all my previous applications were Jeeps or Toyotas not designed to tow 10k lbs so i don't know if that makes a difference. I torqued those SOB bolts so much my 25" breaker bar was flexing like a mfacker and the bolts wouldn't move anymore. Good workout if you can't go the gym because of the Covid chit , i don't have Core arms though, but I've gone from stockers, to Mevotec, then to Freedom Offroad and finally to Claytons, all use 200ft/lbs.

 

[Tim Garceau]

When the nuts and bolts are through and snug you want the *static weight of the vehicle on every arm link. Then apply the factory torque specs of 130 to the uppers and 200 Ft# on the lowers to pinch the ears so the bolt sleeve never deviates from that zero position.

Does not matter what type of arm/joint used. They (Should) all use the same sleeve length for the pinch mate. This method also applies to the upper and lower front arms to the frame.

 

[ram1500rsm]

When the nuts and bolts are through and snug you want the *static weight of the vehicle on every arm link. Then apply the factory torque specs of 130 to the uppers and 200 Ft# on the lowers to pinch the ears so the bolt sleeve never deviates from that zero position.

Does not matter what type of arm/joint used. They (Should) all use the same sleeve length for the pinch mate. This method also applies to the upper and lower front arms to the frame.

Damn it i'll have to go down there again loose the rear upper bolts and put them at 130ft/lbs
I forgot they were 130 so i gave them all i had with the breaker bar, Phack

 

[RedSRT4Me]

Is that Pro Comp rear control arm bracket available separately?

They are available in a rear bracket box it.

I got mine through @Nick@GotExhaust

 

[ram1500rsm]

Damn it i'll have to go down there again loose the rear upper bolts and put them at 130ft/lbs
I forgot they were 130 so i gave them all i had with the breaker bar, Phack

Never mind. I'm using JT arms and those call for 185 upper 200lbs lower. same rear arms we use so i'm leaving them as it is ... tight as chit. i did the same with my Mevo and the FO arms so should be more than ok. Wonder where our 130lbs torque value came from?? i know there in an old list that came from a 2009 RAM 1500 ??
In any case I started using all the torque i could since i don't have a torque wrench than can go higher than 135, and because in this thread i asked the question and JB1, quickshifter indicated 200+, so i've been use Gutten Tight as chit in both upper and lowers, and i've done 4 times already in my truck.

https://www.ramforum.com/threads/rear-control-arm-torque-specs.144970/#post-2055133

 

[Graygoose]

They are available in a rear bracket box it.

I got mine through @Nick@GotExhaust

Interesting, have a part #, and do they just help keep the geometry correct?

 

[Tim Garceau]

On the torques, was able to remove all 4 uppers with a 1/2” drive ratchet. The lowers needed much more leverage to remove the Factory installed OEM Arms.

Either way G&T above lug nut torque would be adequate for the uppers.

 

[RedSRT4Me]

Interesting, have a part #, and do they just help keep the geometry correct?

Unfortunately I don't have the part#. I'll see if I can locate it and I'll edit this post.

Edit: Found it. Pro-Comp K56747-B5.

They state it only works for 2010 or older.

 

[ram1500rsm]

I checked with my Haynes subscription, the torque on those suckers rear uppers and lowers is actually 225ft/lbs. Just confirming with everybody they should be tight as phack
Leaving the info in a pdf as of today 05/20.
This should cover front/rear steering components torque settings.

https://www.ramforum.com/threads/09-16-ram-suspension-steering-torque-settings.161312/

 

[Graygoose]

Unfortunately I don't have the part#. I'll see if I can locate it and I'll edit this post.

Edit: Found it. Pro-Comp K56747-B5.

They state it only works for 2010 or older.

thank you sir!!!

 

[RedSRT4Me]

thank you sir!!!

I'm corrected.

The B5 box which is the rear will work for all years.

Hardware boxes B1- B3 are application specific because it dictates which crossmember which knuckles and diff drop etc.

 

[RedSRT4Me]

Cool part is if I ever wanted to convert to 4x4 these pieces would help get me there lifted.

Pro-Comp 56750B is for 2012-2014 but the key revision is the electronic steering.

I haven't been able to locate a newer update to the kit than this.

 

[RedSRT4Me]

Interesting, have a part #, and do they just help keep the geometry correct?

I'm sorry I missed this Goose. The brackets allow you to use the stock arms. This setup is overkill

 

[Graygoose]

I'm sorry I missed this Goose. The brackets allow you to use the stock arms. This setup is overkill

thank you sir!!

 

[HTXRamExp]

I recently bought a set of the rear upper/lower control arms form core 4x4. Due to missing the grease fittings for the arms, I contacted core 4x4 and got a hold of Spence and he got the missing items out for shipping same day, great customer service from Core.

While I had him on the phone I just asked about installation, I'd say about 99% of the arms I've seen installed have the JJ on the frame side, but Spence stated that they're recommending the JJ now be installed on the axle side due better bushing life/performance in that orientation.

Not sure if it's a function of installation orientation or maybe something along the lines of what the OP brought up about bushings being over greased or greased while torqued.

Not sure if it really matters for trucks that aren't wheeling regularly.