Crank no start after cam and lifter replacement

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Warrior52784

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5.7
After cam and lifter replacement on 2010 5.7 hemi vvt the engine started and ran great for about 30 min. Once engine was up to temp I shut engine down. Checked for leaks under the truck then attempted to restart engine. Engine cranks but doesn’t even try to fire. Any thoughts?
 
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MSIGF63_91

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Hopefully something came slightly unplugged, like the Camshaft sensor or Maf. Checking for codes should say if it is a sensor. Reminders to check simple stuff are below.

~Could be upstream O2 Sensor/Incorrect Data
~Tunes - ECM/Trans
~Fuse
~Ground cable by PCM + Psgr
Rear firewall - Or not tight enough
grounds
~Plugins behind Intake Manifold
~Purge solenoid plugin
~Open Fuel Cap and see if it starts.
~Overheat condition? Check Coolant temp sensor plugin + Temp Reading 212⁰ ish normally

Unplugging the battery for 20+ minutes may allow the engine to start with default values and start again.

Make sure foot is not on pedal for flood mode during cranking lol.

Listen for fuel pump humming when the ignition is on or check the Fuel Rail schrader valve if it has one, otherwise FP Relay. I didn't check to see if mine has a schrader valve.

Not sure which common issues you faced like not fully seated PCM connectors or what the engine sounds like during cranking so there could be many things aside from Timing jumps or Security Issues.

Let us know if anything here helped and any observations you made that seem off. Any Issues you had difficulty with can help us help you too.
 
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Warrior52784

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Yeah. I tried all the steps above. To my heartbreak that was not the issue. Checked compression and found several cylinders with low to no compression. Tore engine back dow and the cam bolt had backed out causing the cam not to spin during start up. Have a bore scope ordered to assess any damage that may have occurred. Sad day I tell you.
 

MSIGF63_91

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Oh boy that is a sad day, depending on the Cam you added, I don't think this is an interference engine so you may have gotten lucky without bent Valves.

Best case scenario you can do this with the heads still on, Valve covers off, Rockers arms and Cam Sprocket also off oroved to the side, if it's too difficult to rotate Cam.
Then rotate Crank to TDC, a long 1/4" Extension in that Cyl#1 (Front Drivers side) will be your best friend if the scope doesn't help with that, and keeping in mind the Intake Valve coming to that closed position so you'll know your not 180⁰ off (Valve Spring Relaxing/Decompressing)

I'd like to know if Rotating the Cam is going to be difficult in your scenario.

Some things I mention so others can use this information also, I already assume you know these things since you were able to tackle this big job. This will be a good reference non the less. Others may chime in if something else comes to mind.

Do you need any Torque Specs by chance? I have hope for you.
 
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Wild one

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Oh boy that is a sad day, depending on the Cam you added, I don't think this is an interference engine so you may have gotten lucky without bent Valves.

Best case scenario you can do this with the heads still on, Valve covers off, Rockers arms and Cam Sprocket also off oroved to the side, if it's too difficult to rotate Cam.
Then rotate Crank to TDC, a long 1/4" Extension in that Cyl#1 (Front Drivers side) will be your best friend if the scope doesn't help with that, and keeping in mind the Intake Valve coming to that closed position so you'll know your not 180⁰ off (Valve Spring Relaxing/Decompressing)

I'd like to know if Rotating the Cam is going to be difficult in your scenario.

Some things I mention so others can use this information also, I already assume you know these things since you were able to tackle this big job. This will be a good reference non the less. Others may chime in if something else comes to mind.

Do you need any Torque Specs by chance? I have hope for you.
The Hemi is an interferance engine,it'll bend valves if the cam becomes reta-rded or is installed a tooth or 2 reta-rded
 
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