Cyl 3 Misfires || P303

[BinaryData]

Hey Guys!

It's been a long time since I've posted on here, I've been quite busy and for once, my truck was running pretty damn good. A lot of the issues I had, I figured out and fixed by searching on here or Google. Unfortunately, my luck came to an end.

I was driving to work one day, and I went to pass a semi going down a hill. Naturally, I goosed it to get by him. Once I slowed down to a stop after I got off the highway, Check Engine light started blinking at me, and the trucks engine sounded like an old carb getting choked off. Once I got above 40mph, it went away. Things were normal.

Today on my way into work, same thing, except the check engine light is on permanently now. The truck sounds fine, I've had 3 different mechanics listen to it, and they can't hear any change in the engine idling.

I plan on replacing all my plugs, however they didn't look bad. I tried to find an image of where cyl 3 was at, but I couldn't find anything I felt comfortable using. I went with my best guess and replaced the 2 plugs on the right side, second cyl in. My colleagues suggested I run some injector cleaner through my truck, and see where that puts me. I don't have a ton of cash right now, I just finished helping my mom buy a new diesel block for her truck. Her engine blew up, quite literally.

I'm looking for suggestions on things I can do to help eliminate the problem or to help narrow it down. Any brands to avoid for fuel injector cleaning? I was looking at Lucas or STP.

Edit:
Forgot to add that I can't do ANY vehicle work at my apartment. That includes changing spark plugs, the only thing allowed to do is refill my wiper fluid. To replace the rest of my plugs, I have to drive to my brothers place, which is 90 minutes away and 100 miles roughly. Is it SAFE for me to drive my truck that far? I can post the error code if needed.

 

[Burla]

You ran the code and it said misfire number 3? You know the likely culprit? Switch coil packs and see if code moves to a different cylinder.

 

[BinaryData]

You ran the code and it said misfire number 3? You know the likely culprit? Switch coil packs and see if code moves to a different cylinder.

I honestly, never thought of that, Burla. I'll give that a try. The problem I was running into was, I wasn't 100% sure which slot was Cyl 3. I guessed off of several images.

8 - 7
6 - 5
4 - 3
2 - 1
FAN

 

[kempo780]

I honestly, never thought of that, Burla. I'll give that a try. The problem I was running into was, I wasn't 100% sure which slot was Cyl 3. I guessed off of several images.

8 - 7
6 - 5
4 - 3
2 - 1
FAN

The cyl. order you have illustrated is correct. Try switching the coil packs and see if it moves codes.

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

 

[BinaryData]

The cyl. order you have illustrated is correct. Try switching the coil packs and see if it moves codes.

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

Thanks. Glad to see I didn't make the problem worse.

Since I don't know if the coil packs have been replaced or not, I'm going to pick one up. Are there any brands I should avoid? The reasoning for picking one up is because my truck was originally from Alaska, and was used on the docks. Plenty of damage from seawater, or so I'm told. My colleague whose a mechanic by hobby said the clips looked brittle and didn't want to risk breaking them.

I was looking at, leaning more towards the Duralast.

https://www.autozone.com/ignition-t...ndard-ignition-coil-c1526/201820_723656_18342

or

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...-coil/uf504/6234477/2009/dodge/ram-1500?pos=2

 

[BinaryData]

Update:

I've swapped the Coil Pack from Cyl 3 to Cyl 1, and the same stress test. Misfire on Cyl 3. I've eliminated plugs and coil packs. The only thing left would be injectors. I've also put in about half a bottle of Lucas Fuel Injector cleaner. I've burned through 2 tanks of gas since this started happening.

Are Fuel Injectors something I can replace on my own or does it need to be brought to a shop?

If I can replace them on my own, do I need to replace ALL 8 at the same time, or can I do just one?

For the longevity of my truck, should I replace all the Coil Packs, and Spark plugs the same time I do my Injector(s)?

To re-iterate what's happening,

To me, it feels like a carb getting choked off from fuel. If I step on the pedal and put a heavy load on it, it stutters and freaks out. If I let off the gas and drop rpms, it normalizes fairly quickly. My thought was the fuel injector isn't giving it enough gas, and that's causing the misfire. The plugs, coils, and injectors have never been replaced. I know this truck has been abused heavily, I've hauled quite a bit, and some over the recommended load capacity. I've never ran cleaners through my truck, which is something I'm going to get in the habit of doing. Finally, I'm ashamed to say that I'm one of those people who gets in their vehicles, starts it, and immediately starts driving. I was informed by a mechanic this last week that it's extremely bad for the engine to have that done. I've never been told by anyone else, but hey, I'm always down for learning.

 

[Tim Garceau]

Pull a valve cover and compare rocker arm movement.

 

[Burla]

I'm one of those people who gets in their vehicles, starts it, and immediately starts driving. I was informed by a mechanic this last week that it's extremely bad for the engine to have that done. I've never been told by anyone else, but hey, I'm always down for learning.

Had nothing to do with it, and for a hemi this is what we all should be doing. Hemi's are much more susceptible to lack of lubrication at idle as opposed to increased rpm's. Now, there is a right way and wrong way to do ****, you don't want to go whaling on the throttle, but a 2k or so rpm run that cam is being lubricated better then at idle in a hemi.

 

[Sherman Bird]

Hey Guys!

It's been a long time since I've posted on here, I've been quite busy and for once, my truck was running pretty damn good. A lot of the issues I had, I figured out and fixed by searching on here or Google. Unfortunately, my luck came to an end.

I was driving to work one day, and I went to pass a semi going down a hill. Naturally, I goosed it to get by him. Once I slowed down to a stop after I got off the highway, Check Engine light started blinking at me, and the trucks engine sounded like an old carb getting choked off. Once I got above 40mph, it went away. Things were normal.

Today on my way into work, same thing, except the check engine light is on permanently now. The truck sounds fine, I've had 3 different mechanics listen to it, and they can't hear any change in the engine idling.

I plan on replacing all my plugs, however they didn't look bad. I tried to find an image of where cyl 3 was at, but I couldn't find anything I felt comfortable using. I went with my best guess and replaced the 2 plugs on the right side, second cyl in. My colleagues suggested I run some injector cleaner through my truck, and see where that puts me. I don't have a ton of cash right now, I just finished helping my mom buy a new diesel block for her truck. Her engine blew up, quite literally.

I'm looking for suggestions on things I can do to help eliminate the problem or to help narrow it down. Any brands to avoid for fuel injector cleaning? I was looking at Lucas or STP.

Edit:
Forgot to add that I can't do ANY vehicle work at my apartment. That includes changing spark plugs, the only thing allowed to do is refill my wiper fluid. To replace the rest of my plugs, I have to drive to my brothers place, which is 90 minutes away and 100 miles roughly. Is it SAFE for me to drive my truck that far? I can post the error code if needed.

Cylinder #3 is the second plug on the driver's side (left) that is bank one cylinders # 1-3-5-7.

When your check engine light flashes at you, you're instructed by the owner's manual to stop driving because engine or catalyst damage is imminently likely.

You more than likely have crud in the injectors. Any shop worth their salt can figure that out in 15 minutes if they're competent.

 

[CunningStunt]

Pull a valve cover and compare rocker arm movement.

I second this after ruling out possible dirty TB/Intake.

Misfires, although usually accompanied by the tick, are more often than not associated with the cam being ground by a stuck lifter and therefore limiting valves opening for exh/fuel and causing misfire code.

 

[BinaryData]

Pull a valve cover and compare rocker arm movement.

Is this something a novice should be doing?

Had nothing to do with it, and for a hemi this is what we all should be doing. Hemi's are much more susceptible to lack of lubrication at idle as opposed to increased rpm's. Now, there is a right way and wrong way to do ****, you don't want to go whaling on the throttle, but a 2k or so rpm run that cam is being lubricated better then at idle in a hemi.

Glad I know now. I'm trying to let my vehicle warm up to where I get heat out of the vents before driving it. Would be better if my key fob worked.

Cylinder #3 is the second plug on the driver's side (left) that is bank one cylinders # 1-3-5-7.

When your check engine light flashes at you, you're instructed by the owner's manual to stop driving because engine or catalyst damage is imminently likely.

You more than likely have crud in the injectors. Any shop worth their salt can figure that out in 15 minutes if they're competent.

I figured it was a clogged injector. I was hoping the Lucas Fuel injector cleaner would help but I haven't seen any improvements. If I take it into a shop, I might just have them replace all the injectors.

 

[Sherman Bird]

Is this something a novice should be doing?


Glad I know now. I'm trying to let my vehicle warm up to where I get heat out of the vents before driving it. Would be better if my key fob worked.



I figured it was a clogged injector. I was hoping the Lucas Fuel injector cleaner would help but I haven't seen any improvements. If I take it into a shop, I might just have them replace all the injectors.

Putting a cleaner in the tank is like shouting advice to a boxer from outside the arena! The effective way is to have someone who knows what they are doing diagnose the truck FIRST! Then, IF they are in the know, they know WHICH cleaner really works.... if that is their assessment.

 

[Tim Garceau]

Is this something a novice should be doing?

Only if you have one of these.

 

[Sherman Bird]

Only if you have one of these.
View attachment 218283

Sad state of affairs when people believe some poser on youtube over us real experts!

 

[Sherman Bird]

Sad state of affairs when people believe some poser on youtube over us real experts!

It reminds me of a commercial on TV years ago where a young man, holding a scalpel, is in his kitchen on the phone to a surgeon who is instructing this frightened young man to make an incision between 2 of his ribs.... the young man queries "Shouldn't YOU be doing this"!?

 

[BinaryData]

Putting a cleaner in the tank is like shouting advice to a boxer from outside the arena! The effective way is to have someone who knows what they are doing diagnose the truck FIRST! Then, IF they are in the know, they know WHICH cleaner really works.... if that is their assessment.

Normally, I take my truck to the shop when it's something beyond the scope of my abilities. But right now, is the worst timing possible for having truck issues. I'll be taking it into the shop within the next 2 weeks.

Only if you have one of these.
View attachment 218283

Haha. That's awesome. Sadly, no I don't. I looked for a video on replacing the injector, but I couldn't find anything that looked legitimate. I'll just take it to the shop and deal with it from there.

Thanks y'all for the help. Shame I'm learning things the hard way, but I appreciate all the effort.

 

[14Deebo]

Going through a very similar situation atm. Truck is at 54k with a P0303. Swapped plugs and moved the coil packs around and kept getting a hard MIL on cylinder 3. Truck is currently at the Ram dealership getting the diagnosis. I am betting it's a the cam/lifter failure, but hoping it's not. I've been researching aftermarket cams and tunes for a few days just in case.

 

[scott lass 18]

Hey Guys!

It's been a long time since I've posted on here, I've been quite busy and for once, my truck was running pretty damn good. A lot of the issues I had, I figured out and fixed by searching on here or Google. Unfortunately, my luck came to an end.

I was driving to work one day, and I went to pass a semi going down a hill. Naturally, I goosed it to get by him. Once I slowed down to a stop after I got off the highway, Check Engine light started blinking at me, and the trucks engine sounded like an old carb getting choked off. Once I got above 40mph, it went away. Things were normal.

Today on my way into work, same thing, except the check engine light is on permanently now. The truck sounds fine, I've had 3 different mechanics listen to it, and they can't hear any change in the engine idling.

I plan on replacing all my plugs, however they didn't look bad. I tried to find an image of where cyl 3 was at, but I couldn't find anything I felt comfortable using. I went with my best guess and replaced the 2 plugs on the right side, second cyl in. My colleagues suggested I run some injector cleaner through my truck, and see where that puts me. I don't have a ton of cash right now, I just finished helping my mom buy a new diesel block for her truck. Her engine blew up, quite literally.

I'm looking for suggestions on things I can do to help eliminate the problem or to help narrow it down. Any brands to avoid for fuel injector cleaning? I was looking at Lucas or STP.

Edit:
Forgot to add that I can't do ANY vehicle work at my apartment. That includes changing spark plugs, the only thing allowed to do is refill my wiper fluid. To replace the rest of my plugs, I have to drive to my brothers place, which is 90 minutes away and 100 miles roughly. Is it SAFE for me to drive my truck that far? I can post the error code if needed.

hi mine was po301 code ! number one plug , change two plugs nothing fixed , replace coil , still was bad trouble then used a fuel cleaner help only one week ! lucky was under unlimit warranty to dealer I went ! turnout to be my fuel injector went bad ! so fixed now ok ! ow had a loud ticking exhaust pipe warped was replaced now other sides doing the same thing hope only a pipe to replace ! truck only has 60,000 on it !

 

[BinaryData]

Going through a very similar situation atm. Truck is at 54k with a P0303. Swapped plugs and moved the coil packs around and kept getting a hard MIL on cylinder 3. Truck is currently at the Ram dealership getting the diagnosis. I am betting it's a the cam/lifter failure, but hoping it's not. I've been researching aftermarket cams and tunes for a few days just in case.

Hit me up if you find anything, if it'll fit my Dodge. If I'm going to put money into it, I'm going to get the best i can. I need it to last another year, maybe two. Haha. Hit me up with a PM if it turns out to just be an injector. The problem I'm having is, I don't want to pay for exploratory finding.

hi mine was po301 code ! number one plug , change two plugs nothing fixed , replace coil , still was bad trouble then used a fuel cleaner help only one week ! lucky was under unlimit warranty to dealer I went ! turnout to be my fuel injector went bad ! so fixed now ok ! ow had a loud ticking exhaust pipe warped was replaced now other sides doing the same thing hope only a pipe to replace ! truck only has 60,000 on it !

My truck was originally from Alaska. The people who owned it for me drove it like mad men. I also drove it like a hot rod, kinda hard not too when it's a 5.7 Hemi. I have a lead foot, and the Need For Speed itch =/

 

[BinaryData]

And the verdict is!

A new engine! The cam shaft, 16 lifters, valves and seals. That's to rebuild it, and the cost is $6500, with a very limited warranty. A new engine is $9,100, not sure if that includes labor or not. But yeah. I'm honestly, not sure what to do anymore.

Edit: I'm aiming for a new engine, it'll up the value a bit more, and may help in the long run. Who knows.