Dash lights, service anti lock break and dont shift tranmission flashing on and off.

[Jluda56]

Hey guys new to the group.

I don't know where to even begin so I'm looking for a direction. For while now I've these 2 warnings randomly flash on my dash "service anti lock break" " do not shift tranmission" I'm not sure exactly what the rest says.

Now there have been a couple times my dash board has died and my speedo and tach died. I the truck never shut off or stalled till tonight. I got ahole bunch of lights and warnings and it stalled then I turned it off turned it back on and it ran just fine. I'm going to get her scanned tomorrow. I'm assuming an electrical for obvious reasons. Has anyone had a similar issue

 

[Daw14]

Have your battery LOAD tested .

 

[SitKneelBend]

Have your battery LOAD tested .

This^^^

 

[Jluda56]

Ok I went and did all that and had it scanned it came back with code p1df3...Quick google seach leaves me here

The P1DF3 is either an internal failure in the electronic shift module or transmission control module. Both will need to be tested to determine which has failed and replace and program as needed

 

[RamDiver]

Ok I went and did all that and had it scanned it came back with code p1df3...Quick google seach leaves me here

The P1DF3 is either an internal failure in the electronic shift module or transmission control module. Both will need to be tested to determine which has failed and replace and program as needed

Did you have the battery load tested?

A $20 toaster-style battery load tester is best. Digital testers will often provide a false positive for a flakey cell.

100 Amp, 6/12V Battery Load Tester

Amazing deals on this 100 Amp 6/12V Battery Load Tester at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

.

 

[Jluda56]

I did he said my battery was at 30%. The battery is going on 4 years old.

 

[Daw14]

With the tremendous amount of electronics in these trucks they need all the power required. A battery on its way out will not supply sufficient energy. 4 years is time to get a new battery.

 

[Jluda56]

I agree with what your saying. But my battery is kicking out 12.68 volts with it off its not sluggish to start. And I'm getting 14.5 while running so i don't necessarily agree It's the battery.

 

[SitKneelBend]

I agree with what your saying. But my battery is kicking out 12.68 volts with it off its not sluggish to start. And I'm getting 14.5 while running so i don't necessarily agree It's the battery.

I will say that when the battery is on it's way out (I've replaced two) you will get errors exactly like this. Especially the cluster blanking and sometimes the windshield wipers will turn on by themselves. Before you dive into throwing parts at it I too would start with the battery. I'm not really sure what the tech meant by the battery is at 30%, did he clarify further?

 

[Jluda56]

No he didn't and I wasn't thinking to ask him. I didn't mention this earlier, but I have thought of it since. I was actually driving when this situation occued. The alternator checked out. That's why I don't think it's the battery but I also agree. I'm probably gonna replace the battery here. Just because it's that time of year to do it anyway.

 

[RamDiver]

No he didn't and I wasn't thinking to ask him. I didn't mention this earlier, but I have thought of it since. I was actually driving when this situation occued. The alternator checked out. That's why I don't think it's the battery but I also agree. I'm probably gonna replace the battery here. Just because it's that time of year to do it anyway.

Don't forget, we often see about 3 to 5 of this same scenario each day.

The SOP when dealing with multiple system failures or alarms is to load test the battery with a toaster-style load tester like the unit from HarbourFreight for $20. And, don't let anyone convince you a digital battery load tester works better, they often misdiagnose a flakey cell.

I wouldn't recommend changing out any part before a logical diagnosis is performed.

100 Amp, 6/12V Battery Load Tester

Amazing deals on this 100 Amp 6/12V Battery Load Tester at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

That link was still in the PCs clipboard from the last use a few minutes ago. What does that tell you?

.

 

[Jluda56]

Thanks

 

[04fxdwgi]

Thanks
View attachment 555155

is that new battery, or old one?

 

[RamDiver]

Thanks
View attachment 555155

Bravo!

You will get years of use from it, if treated with care.

The most relevant picture to display would be during the load test with a notation indicating after x seconds (as per the device directions).

With the load switch off, the meter is only showing the float voltage.

And as 0fxdwgi asked, is that the original battery or the new battery?

.

 

[BossHogg]

I agree with what your saying. But my battery is kicking out 12.68 volts with it off its not sluggish to start. And I'm getting 14.5 while running so i don't necessarily agree It's the battery.

14.5 indicates your charging system is working well. To get a good idea of the battery's state of charge, remove one of the battery wires (you want a OCV, open circuit voltage), let the battery rest for about 4 hours, and measure the battery's voltage. The voltage will yield a SOC based on the table. There are a ton of these tables floating around the Internet that show slight voltage versus SOC variances but it will settle the issue if your battery needs to be replaced or not.

 

[BillLee]

My 2020 1500 Larame suddenly started throwing codes and various dash lights along with check engine a few weeks ago. It started fine but I think the start took bus voltage so low that strange things happened in the electronics. I replaced the battery with the best one available from AutoZone and all is fine. I think I will get that load tester to keep better track of my battery’s health.

 

[Marshall]

I don't know where you are at regarding the battery, but if the shop/ tester said 30% , that battery is NFG. You don't need a chart.
I bet a new battery will make all the difference. way simpler to change it then start tossing parts at it ,or tow bills.
Kind of funny, My battery is still original in my truck, but it spends 90% of its life sitting in a cool garage now.
Gee Now that I think about it its 10 yrs old, still seems new to me.

BTW welcome aboard from snowy Canada.

 

[Dusty]

I agree with what your saying. But my battery is kicking out 12.68 volts with it off its not sluggish to start. And I'm getting 14.5 while running so i don't necessarily agree It's the battery.

With 12.68 VDC readings your battery is above 30%.

Regards,
Dusty
2019 Ram 1500 Billet Silver Laramie Quad Cab 2WD, 5.7 Hemi, 8HP75, 3.21 axle, 33-gallon fuel tank, 18” wheels. Build Date: 3 June 2018. Now at 123445 miles.

 

[Hardracer]

I don't know where you are at regarding the battery, but if the shop/ tester said 30% , that battery is NFG. You don't need a chart.
I bet a new battery will make all the difference. way simpler to change it then start tossing parts at it ,or tow bills.
Kind of funny, My battery is still original in my truck, but it spends 90% of its life sitting in a cool garage now.
Gee Now that I think about it its 10 yrs old, still seems new to me.

BTW welcome aboard from snowy Canada.

You too just jinxed yourself now...lol

 

[Marshall]

an't that a fact, But I have a power pack in the truck , but not sure how that would work out.
It worked great on the honda when their crappy battery gave out, buts that's a whole different unit current wise.