Did Redline Oil work against your Hemi Tick?

Did redline kill your hemi tick?


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Inferno345

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Alright boys you convinced me to spend the money and give Redline a shot. Just was looking through the Partsource flyer for some oil for my next change and holy **** Redline was on sale 45% off for $44 cad for a quart jug. Been running PUP 5w20 and tried 5w30 since I bought the truck with 280 000km, at 292k now and been worried with how loud this motor is and how much PUP it burns. Picked up the Redline 5w30 as it seems to be what you guys recommend most? Might be a month or so till it gets warm enough for me to change it out but will report back if I remember. Might even head back and pick up another couple jugs. Normally run 3-4k miles a change, starting to realize it might be overkill and thinking of running the Redline longer. What would you guys recommend for an interval with short daily trips with a good hard run on weekends. Previously ran Napa gold filters but decided to switch to the Fram XG2, couldn't justify $30 for a RP filter.
 

16RamHemi

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Alright boys you convinced me to spend the money and give Redline a shot. Just was looking through the Partsource flyer for some oil for my next change and holy **** Redline was on sale 45% off for $44 cad for a quart jug. Been running PUP 5w20 and tried 5w30 since I bought the truck with 280 000km, at 292k now and been worried with how loud this motor is and how much PUP it burns. Picked up the Redline 5w30 as it seems to be what you guys recommend most? Might be a month or so till it gets warm enough for me to change it out but will report back if I remember. Might even head back and pick up another couple jugs. Normally run 3-4k miles a change, starting to realize it might be overkill and thinking of running the Redline longer. What would you guys recommend for an interval with short daily trips with a good hard run on weekends. Previously ran Napa gold filters but decided to switch to the Fram XG2, couldn't justify $30 for a RP filter.

I did my last redline change at 7500 miles and had a uoa done. Blackstone said I can push out to 8500. Not sure if I will, but it's good to know. I'm all back roads. No highway. I also go with the royal purple 20820 filter. Wix xp is a good affordable filter too.
 
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Burla

Burla

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Alright boys you convinced me to spend the money and give Redline a shot. Just was looking through the Partsource flyer for some oil for my next change and holy **** Redline was on sale 45% off for $44 cad for a quart jug. Been running PUP 5w20 and tried 5w30 since I bought the truck with 280 000km, at 292k now and been worried with how loud this motor is and how much PUP it burns. Picked up the Redline 5w30 as it seems to be what you guys recommend most? Might be a month or so till it gets warm enough for me to change it out but will report back if I remember. Might even head back and pick up another couple jugs. Normally run 3-4k miles a change, starting to realize it might be overkill and thinking of running the Redline longer. What would you guys recommend for an interval with short daily trips with a good hard run on weekends. Previously ran Napa gold filters but decided to switch to the Fram XG2, couldn't justify $30 for a RP filter.

I wouldn't go over ten thousand miles or 1 year w/o a voa WITH TBN from blackstone or a lab in Canada, it is possible to go past that, but you need to see in your engine. Here's the thing, on a long oil interval, spun micro glass filters pay for themselves. Paper filters simply do not last near as long as synthetic oil. So look for farm ultra, amsoil ea, wix xp, srt filters, as alternatives to RP. At a minimum get a m1 or blended filter, but I would get spun micro glass 100% with a long interval.
 

Inferno345

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Sounds good, I wouldnt even feel comfortable going over 7500k miles with any oil lol. Probably go with 6200k miles (10 000km) for my first run of the Redline especially with my current short city commute. The filter I picked up is the Fram Ultra. From what I have seen it seems to be a very good bang for buck filter, up here in Canada the Royal Purple and Wix XP seem to be priced considerably higher. Its amazing how much more I have learned about oil and filters online than I ever did working in auto shops for 5 years. Im really hoping this Redline does the trick, hoping to get the old girl to 250k miles. Thanks guys.
 
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I can get 0w-40 or 10w-30 Redline here in town ... are any of these two ok for my 2018 Ram 1500 ? Or do I have to go with 5w-30 for the best results? By the way I live in Southern California
 
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Anyone care to answer this question for me ?

I can get 0w-40 or 10w-30 Redline here in town ... are any of these two ok for my 2018 Ram 1500 ?

Or do I have to go with 5w-30 for the best results? By the way I live in Southern California
 
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Burla

Burla

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Anyone care to answer this question for me ?

I can get 0w-40 or 10w-30 Redline here in town ... are any of these two ok for my 2018 Ram 1500 ?

Or do I have to go with 5w-30 for the best results? By the way I live in Southern California

5w30 for best results hands down, but you can use dealer locator if you like. You might want to price check, Nick's prices save you a couple bucks per qrt usually over brick and morter, gotexhaust sells the stuff cheap.

10w30 redline is not as good as 5w30, not in the truck or the stat sheet, they clearly use a better base oil with the 5w30 to get the higher hths, which is what you want to see to battle tick.
 
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5w30 for best results hands down, but you can use dealer locator if you like. You might want to price check, Nick's prices save you a couple bucks per qrt usually over brick and morter, gotexhaust sells the stuff cheap.

10w30 redline is not as good as 5w30, not in the truck or the stat sheet, they clearly use a better base oil with the 5w30 to get the higher hths, which is what you want to see to battle tick.


Ok good stuff Burla ... and I can just go ahead and use 7 full quarts with no mixture of any other right? What combination do you use now? I have read through so many threads and posts by now that I have seen maybe 5 different combinations of what mixtures to use ...
 
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Burla

Burla

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Ok good stuff Burla ... and I can just go ahead and use 7 full quarts with no mixture of any other right? What combination do you use now? I have read through so many threads and posts by now that I have seen maybe 5 different combinations of what mixtures to use ...

I've used 5w30 by itself for most of the 9 years now, I tried 10w30 once because of the lack of vii's, but my truck ticked on it, went back to 5w30 and all is quiet. I will use 5w30 redline from here on out. The only reason to consider mixing is the guys in cold states, no concern to you in so cal. If it ticks on 5w30 redline for some reason, I'd use some lubegard biotech, and my current run has biotech in it just because I was testing it for other reasons. Truck didn't need it as the tick is still gone, but if my tick came back I would add biotech as a strategy.
 
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I've used 5w30 by itself for most of the 9 years now, I tried 10w30 once because of the lack of vii's, but my truck ticked on it, went back to 5w30 and all is quiet. I will use 5w30 redline from here on out. The only reason to consider mixing is the guys in cold states, no concern to you in so cal. If it ticks on 5w30 redline for some reason, I'd use some lubegard biotech, and my current run has biotech in it just because I was testing it for other reasons. Truck didn't need it as the tick is still gone, but if my tick came back I would add biotech as a strategy.


Ok good stuff my friend ... and since this is about red line oil, what weight of rear dif oil should I use ...I just regeared to 4.88s and I am about to reach the 500 miles to flush it ... I want to use Red Line but what weight ? 75w140 or 75w90? I have a 2wd only just in case it matters ...
 
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Burla

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Ok good stuff my friend ... and since this is about red line oil, what weight of rear dif oil should I use ...I just regeared to 4.88s and I am about to reach the 500 miles to flush it ... I want to use Red Line but what weight ? 75w140 or 75w90? I have a 2wd only just in case it matters ...

You re-geared but still have the factory open diff with no changes? I don't know for sure, just guessing it would be what the factory asks for 75w140, but most stout gearing actually uses the thinner 75w90. Even limited slip on the 1500 uses 75w140, so that would be my guess. The 2500's and up actually take the thinner fluid, but I do believe you will be using the thicker stuff.
 
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You re-geared but still have the factory open diff with no changes? I don't know for sure, just guessing it would be what the factory asks for 75w140, but most stout gearing actually uses the thinner 75w90. Even limited slip on the 1500 uses 75w140, so that would be my guess. The 2500's and up actually take the thinner fluid, but I do believe you will be using the thicker stuff.


Ok makes sense and thank you .. .that is also what I have been reading around the internet ... and yes no changes at all just the regear to 4.88s ... once again thank you
 
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Burla

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Ok makes sense and thank you .. .that is also what I have been reading around the internet ... and yes no changes at all just the regear to 4.88s ... once again thank you

I would however put more miles on the conventional stuff they put in, maybe swap at 1500 miles.
 
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Burla

Burla

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So don't flush the fluid they added with the regearing until 1500 miles?

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No my bad, new gears need fluid soon, but maybe I would do another short run cheap conventional oil. Change now to a cheap fluid and then again 1500- 2500 miles or so. The issue is redline is so good the gears likely wont be seating after you put it in. Do you have a drain and fill plug on diff? Drain warm as well.
 
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Burla

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Part of the problem is the recommended redline for your oem diff has slipperiness additives in there, so you want to make sure the positive wearing is done. Better safe then sorry with such a big investment. Change now in case you have metal shavings, but 500 miles is too soon to assume positive wearing is done.

You gear company should have had a break in procedure, you want to follow that to a T, and what I am suggesting is more insurance to their break in procedure.
 
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Part of the problem is the recommended redline for your oem diff has slipperiness additives in there, so you want to make sure the positive wearing is done. Better safe then sorry with such a big investment. Change now in case you have metal shavings, but 500 miles is too soon to assume positive wearing is done.

You gear company should have had a break in procedure, you want to follow that to a T, and what I am suggesting is more insurance to their break in procedure.

Yes, part of the break in procedure is to go back at 500 miles so they can flush and add new gear oil ... I just finished exchanging texts with the shop owner and he said it's important to go back at 500 ...

I also asked him what gear oil brand and weight they use at the shop and he said Chevron 85-140 ... Is that a good option ? I did ask him if I can take my own fluid to be used and he said yes, I also made sure that it would not void the warranty ...
 

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