Did Redline Oil work against your Hemi Tick?

Did redline kill your hemi tick?


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Burla

Burla

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Has anyone tried Redline Break In additive?

yes we have had some guys try it, no luck against tick, it is basically zinc or more correctly zddp. I think the only real purpose of this is break it when you want a cushion on the sharp edges during break in.
 

HEMIMANN

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Could be for sure, as lubegard also adds esters into their formula and also has success. I think motul has some ester oils with no moly if someone wants to test that, not their 300v which does have moly. If someone with hemi tick wants to try this let me know, I will try and see some options for esters with no moly. However, the white paper is clear on what benefits cam wear and that is moly.

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I do think this is a good idea but not a lot of people have tried it. I really like the idea of doing this as opposed to doing otc additives that can be dangerous. We know the success rate against tick is great, I often wonder if we just mixed one or two quarts in if we would have similar results. More testing in this are would be beneficial, to know one way or the other. I would say go thick to maximize results, so like 0w30 for winter or 5w30 for warm state, added to whatever you use in the 5.7.

What oil would you mix with Redline if you were to do so ? ....
 
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Burla

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I think adding a quart or more of redline to any over the counter oil will make it better for the hemi, and lubegard as well. Generally I prefer not mixing, but this will boost things beneficial to the hemi.
 
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I think adding a quart or more of redline to any over the counter oil will make it better for the hemi, and lubegard as well. Generally I prefer not mixing, but this will boost things beneficial to the hemi.


What if its 75% Redline and the rest Mobil 1 ..... or simply more Redline than the other brand ?
 
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Burla

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no problem, they are compatible
 

Wild one

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What other brands are compatible with Redline to mix with ? I will share my story of why I am asking this later on lol !!!

I'm guessing it's to do with dual filters and you don't want to change oil,lol.Why not just buy a couple quarts of Redline when you do the remote filters
 
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Burla

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What other brands are compatible with Redline to mix with ? I will share my story of why I am asking this later on lol !!!

all brands really, I might avoid ester or pao based fluids for mixing with other ester based fluids, but group 3 stuff is 100% compatible.
 
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I'm guessing it's to do with dual filters and you don't want to change oil,lol.Why not just buy a couple quarts of Redline when you do the remote filters


Not at all ... I am going to wait on the remove filters ... perma cool has to get them done and it takes a few days he said so I can just get them from him later on and do it anyways even after the oil change ...

Lol ...here is what happened so don't laugh !!!

I did the oil change on my 1500 earlier today ... I installed the fumoto oil drain plug before draining the oil by using a vacuum to suck to prevent the oil from coming out of the drain hole ..why? I wanted to see how it worked NOW! lol .....

Well .... it worked and then I opened up the fumoto drain plug to see it in action and when it was done draining I went ahead and filled up with the 1st gallon of Redline ...

My ******* didn't close the fumoto drain plug and I am guessing most if not all of the 1st gallon of redline went right through and drained out !!!! ... I only noticed because I heard trickling below the truck and saw that the oil was coming out !!!!!

SOB ! are you ******* serious!!!! .... so I closed it right away and created new curse word combos never before heard in the history of mankind!!!

I then went ahead and poured the 2nd gallon of redline and it didn't even reach the safe zone on the dip stick ... so I am guessing I must of wasted the whole 1st gallon of redline oil!!!!!

I am so pissed off !!!! So now I am debating on waiting for friday for more redline from amazon or just going to autozone and picking up some mobil 1 lol ... what do you suggest ...

I already ordered 2 more gallons of it and they will be here friday ... so do I go ahead and finish it off with some M1 or just wait for the Redline on friday ? lol ....
 

Wild one

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Not at all ... I am going to wait on the remove filters ... perma cool has to get them done and it takes a few days he said so I can just get them from him later on and do it anyways even after the oil change ...

Lol ...here is what happened so don't laugh !!!

I did the oil change on my 1500 earlier today ... I installed the fumoto oil drain plug before draining the oil by using a vacuum to suck to prevent the oil from coming out of the drain hole ..why? I wanted to see how it worked NOW! lol .....

Well .... it worked and then I opened up the fumoto drain plug to see it in action and when it was done draining I went ahead and filled up with the 1st gallon of Redline ...

My ******* didn't close the fumoto drain plug and I am guessing most if not all of the 1st gallon of redline went right through and drained out !!!! ... I only noticed because I heard trickling below the truck and saw that the oil was coming out !!!!!

SOB ! are you ******* serious!!!! .... so I closed it right away and created new curse word combos never before heard in the history of mankind!!!

I then went ahead and poured the 2nd gallon of redline and it didn't even reach the safe zone on the dip stick ... so I am guessing I must of wasted the whole 1st gallon of redline oil!!!!!

I am so pissed off !!!! So now I am debating on waiting for friday for more redline from amazon or just going to autozone and picking up some mobil 1 lol ... what do you suggest ...

I already ordered 2 more gallons of it and they will be here friday ... so do I go ahead and finish it off with some M1 or just wait for the Redline on friday ? lol ....

Well don't worry,you're not the first guy i seen do that,lol. Years ago i was working with a guy,and he was doing an oil change on his smallblock chevy and didn't realize he hadn't put the drain plug in,till he slipped on the oil on the concrete and fell on his ass,it was funny as hell though,lol:gr_grin: Best part was he was using his brother-n-laws oil to fill up his truck,so he was in a big panic to get the mess cleaned up before he got back,while we sat there drinking his beer and laughing,lol:favorites37:
 
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Well don't worry,you're not the first guy i seen do that,lol. Years ago i was working with a guy,and he was doing an oil change on his smallblock chevy and didn't realize he hadn't put the drain plug in,till he slipped on the oil on the concrete and fell on his ass,it was funny as hell though,lol:gr_grin: Best part was he was using his brother-n-laws oil to fill up his truck,so he was in a big panic to get the mess cleaned up before he got back,while we sat there drinking his beer and laughing,lol:favorites37:


Lol ... when I first started working at Big O Tires busting tires and doing oil changes my 2nd day I did this exact same thing lol ... but the car was up on a lift so the oil splattering everywhere was crazy ... I had just removed the oil lift drain and went downtown with the oil ... I just remember Jason the manager saying "holy ****! I though it would of happened sooner" .....BAHAHa! ....

But now I wonder if I should wait for the redline on friday or top it off with mobil 1 from autozone lol ...
 
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This is about as impressed as I have been, ran heavy gauss magnets and all you can see it an outline on the filter wall, ran the oil a long time a year and a half I believe and it was black. Mind you this was a previous hemi tick engine, and after a year and a half this is all the metal I get from magnets? I could have never imagined it would have been this good, first time running mags, and I think I'll transfer them over to trans because they are not needed at all. If you zoom it you can really barely see the outline of the 4 mags. Love it!

redline 5w30

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mradDiction

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So I have a 2012 Ram 1500 sport crew cab with a 5.7 hemi. I have replaced 2 sets of manifold bolts, one as recently as last Sept/2020. My motor has recently started ticking and I’ve had 3 mechanics tell me it’s internal. I’ve been obsessing about this for a couple weeks, the motor runs so smooth on the road and highway it’s hard to believe it’s a lifter problem eating my cam. I’ve run synthetic in this thing for as long as I e had it 5w20. I ran into money struggles during covid last year and let my oil changes go longer than I normally would do it’s probably my fault this is happening. I just put 1 quart of Lucas synthetic oil stabilizer in my motor to try to quiet it but so far no luck. My local mechanic did my oil change 2 weeks ago but he used an oil called Motosel synthetic 5w20 that I’ve never heard of and a really cheap oil filter, it’s label says “certified” across it so it’s some no one name brand he charged me 100 for this change. I can order redline 5w30 from Amazon here in Calgary Canada and wix dp oil filters there too or a Napa one. I’ve peice the came and lifter job out up here but it will cost 5-6000 dollars to fix it. How serious is this problem and how long will this motor last managing this tick with oil? Thanks in advance for your help. By the way I don’t usually use this mechanic for my oil, I was trying to save cash but for almost the entire time I had the truck I took it to the dealer which ran penzoil 5w20, even jiffy lube ran that for synthetic yet this is still happening to me. I can’t afford a 14,000 new motor for this thing, even the cam and lifter job at 6k will break me. I’m a single income dad supporting my spouse and daughter and am by no means a rich man. I was hoping this truck would last the 350-400k so I didn’t have to keep soaking money into vehicles but this truck is becoming a money pit.
 

Wild one

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So I have a 2012 Ram 1500 sport crew cab with a 5.7 hemi. I have replaced 2 sets of manifold bolts, one as recently as last Sept/2020. My motor has recently started ticking and I’ve had 3 mechanics tell me it’s internal. I’ve been obsessing about this for a couple weeks, the motor runs so smooth on the road and highway it’s hard to believe it’s a lifter problem eating my cam. I’ve run synthetic in this thing for as long as I e had it 5w20. I ran into money struggles during covid last year and let my oil changes go longer than I normally would do it’s probably my fault this is happening. I just put 1 quart of Lucas synthetic oil stabilizer in my motor to try to quiet it but so far no luck. My local mechanic did my oil change 2 weeks ago but he used an oil called Motosel synthetic 5w20 that I’ve never heard of and a really cheap oil filter, it’s label says “certified” across it so it’s some no one name brand he charged me 100 for this change. I can order redline 5w30 from Amazon here in Calgary Canada and wix dp oil filters there too or a Napa one. I’ve peice the came and lifter job out up here but it will cost 5-6000 dollars to fix it. How serious is this problem and how long will this motor last managing this tick with oil? Thanks in advance for your help. By the way I don’t usually use this mechanic for my oil, I was trying to save cash but for almost the entire time I had the truck I took it to the dealer which ran penzoil 5w20, even jiffy lube ran that for synthetic yet this is still happening to me. I can’t afford a 14,000 new motor for this thing, even the cam and lifter job at 6k will break me. I’m a single income dad supporting my spouse and daughter and am by no means a rich man. I was hoping this truck would last the 350-400k so I didn’t have to keep soaking money into vehicles but this truck is becoming a money pit.
You can get 5W-20 or 5W-30 Redline in Calgary at Mopac on 16th ave,they also carry Royal Purple filters
 
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So I have a 2012 Ram 1500 sport crew cab with a 5.7 hemi. I have replaced 2 sets of manifold bolts, one as recently as last Sept/2020. My motor has recently started ticking and I’ve had 3 mechanics tell me it’s internal. I’ve been obsessing about this for a couple weeks, the motor runs so smooth on the road and highway it’s hard to believe it’s a lifter problem eating my cam. I’ve run synthetic in this thing for as long as I e had it 5w20. I ran into money struggles during covid last year and let my oil changes go longer than I normally would do it’s probably my fault this is happening. I just put 1 quart of Lucas synthetic oil stabilizer in my motor to try to quiet it but so far no luck. My local mechanic did my oil change 2 weeks ago but he used an oil called Motosel synthetic 5w20 that I’ve never heard of and a really cheap oil filter, it’s label says “certified” across it so it’s some no one name brand he charged me 100 for this change. I can order redline 5w30 from Amazon here in Calgary Canada and wix dp oil filters there too or a Napa one. I’ve peice the came and lifter job out up here but it will cost 5-6000 dollars to fix it. How serious is this problem and how long will this motor last managing this tick with oil? Thanks in advance for your help. By the way I don’t usually use this mechanic for my oil, I was trying to save cash but for almost the entire time I had the truck I took it to the dealer which ran penzoil 5w20, even jiffy lube ran that for synthetic yet this is still happening to me. I can’t afford a 14,000 new motor for this thing, even the cam and lifter job at 6k will break me. I’m a single income dad supporting my spouse and daughter and am by no means a rich man. I was hoping this truck would last the 350-400k so I didn’t have to keep soaking money into vehicles but this truck is becoming a money pit.
I wish you would have asked before dumping lucas in there, lubegard biotech would have been a better choice. At this point, you should dump it. If you read my oil filter thread, you can see spun microglass filters can out last any oil. So in your case it would be appropriate to do an extended interval, I have done a one and two year interval with used oil analysis's, "uoa". Even at 2 years and 10k miles, my tbn was over 3,0, meaning I could have gone longer, tbn is the main thing you use to set a long interval. I cut my oil filters open x3, royal purple like new at 12 mos, 14 mos, and 2 years, it will outlast any oil imo.

If you use the truck a lot, you can probably save the uoa money and go the 10k miles, but ideally you would want a uoa. Another good thing about a uoa is it will tell you how the engine is wearing, if there is heavy wear it will show up, meaning that cam has been worn more then average. If you order a uoa, get tbn it is an extra charge. Nobody knows how long a truck can tick before losing the cam, literally it could be any day, or last a decade, we have had both and everything inbetween.

If you are really struggling at 10k miles money wise, you can even add a pint bgmoa at the 10k mile mark and drive another couple thousand miles, it is a tbn booster. I would however not push it too far without a uoa, nothing over 12k with bgmoa at the end of the interval.

2012 you want 5w30 no doubt, later on you can choose between 0w30 redline or 5w30 redline if you want more cold performance try the 0w30. But in this situation you should go straight to 5w30 at first, that is the most proven formula. It can take 500-1500 miles for truck to go silent, or right away, that is the science and experiences are all over the board. It has been so successful you can almost say if it doesn't alleviate the tick it perhaps isn't internal. I would at a minimum expect an internal tick would be different in cadence and noise level.

The worry with hemi tick is warm idle tick, if you upload a youtube with the recording device taking from underneath engine and a good 3 minutes plus, we can sometimes have a good guess at what is going on. Do one before you try redline, and then after, again when truck is warm and at idle. Knock wood the good news is if we get that tick killed it will very likely add life to that cam, the decade we have been doing this nobody has had a redline engine cam fail that wasn't going to fail before redline. There were a couple fails, but both of thosegyus had codes and mechanics saying the cam needed replacement. You are not there until you get the p0300 range mis fire codes. Good luck with it, keep us in the loop. 5w30 redline and a royal purple 20-820 filter.
 

mradDiction

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I wish you would have asked before dumping lucas in there, lubegard biotech would have been a better choice. At this point, you should dump it. If you read my oil filter thread, you can see spun microglass filters can out last any oil. So in your case it would be appropriate to do an extended interval, I have done a one and two year interval with used oil analysis's, "uoa". Even at 2 years and 10k miles, my tbn was over 3,0, meaning I could have gone longer, tbn is the main thing you use to set a long interval. I cut my oil filters open x3, royal purple like new at 12 mos, 14 mos, and 2 years, it will outlast any oil imo.

If you use the truck a lot, you can probably save the uoa money and go the 10k miles, but ideally you would want a uoa. Another good thing about a uoa is it will tell you how the engine is wearing, if there is heavy wear it will show up, meaning that cam has been worn more then average. If you order a uoa, get tbn it is an extra charge. Nobody knows how long a truck can tick before losing the cam, literally it could be any day, or last a decade, we have had both and everything inbetween.

If you are really struggling at 10k miles money wise, you can even add a pint bgmoa at the 10k mile mark and drive another couple thousand miles, it is a tbn booster. I would however not push it too far without a uoa, nothing over 12k with bgmoa at the end of the interval.

2012 you want 5w30 no doubt, later on you can choose between 0w30 redline or 5w30 redline if you want more cold performance try the 0w30. But in this situation you should go straight to 5w30 at first, that is the most proven formula. It can take 500-1500 miles for truck to go silent, or right away, that is the science and experiences are all over the board. It has been so successful you can almost say if it doesn't alleviate the tick it perhaps isn't internal. I would at a minimum expect an internal tick would be different in cadence and noise level.

The worry with hemi tick is warm idle tick, if you upload a youtube with the recording device taking from underneath engine and a good 3 minutes plus, we can sometimes have a good guess at what is going on. Do one before you try redline, and then after, again when truck is warm and at idle. Knock wood the good news is if we get that tick killed it will very likely add life to that cam, the decade we have been doing this nobody has had a redline engine cam fail that wasn't going to fail before redline. There were a couple fails, but both of thosegyus had codes and mechanics saying the cam needed replacement. You are not there until you get the p0300 range mis fire codes. Good luck with it, keep us in the loop. 5w30 redline and a royal purple 20-820 filter.
This was super helpful thank you, I was going back and forth on Lucas and even went as far as to contact them about putting it in. They told me to use the low viscosity stabilizer but I couldn’t find a place around that had that. My mother’s husband is an old farmer from Saskatchewan up here, he’s had numerous fords and chev’s not sure about modern Hemi’s though and he runs a gallon of Lucas HD oil stabilizer and tops off with convention 15w40. I can’t see that working for me and I see me at the gas station a lot more or unable to start my truck in -40 we get up here sometimes. I don’t think I’ve run the truck past the 10k kms mark but I have gone longer than 6 months between changes. Do you just get UOA’s done at the dealership? I’ve never thought of doing that, I did call them and it’s about $150/hr to diagnose the problem with the truck. Debating if I really need it as everything I’ve read and listen too on YouTube leads me to a hemi tick problem, only unknown is if the mechanic I used botched the manifold gasket and maybe it’s still leaking. He was the one suggested I get the dealership to diagnose it to confirm if it’s the hemi tick or if the manifold is still leaking. I found this strange as that’s usually why you have a mechanic for, I don’t have a computer code reading tool or knowledge to understand that. Could you clarify a couple acronyms I wasn’t familiar with in your post, (tbn), (bgmoa). I will do a video of the tick and get it on here for you to hear, I think I will follow what you guys suggest and try the redline 5w30 and the rp filter. I’m curious if you guys just buy 2 5liter jugs of the stuff or 1 5 L jug and 2 1liters at a time. How often should I change this to try to get the tick under control? I’m capable of changing the oil, it was just more convenient to have it done at a shop as I don’t have a garage and next to impossible to change in winter unless I get a warning winter day. Thanks again!
 
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This was super helpful thank you, I was going back and forth on Lucas and even went as far as to contact them about putting it in. They told me to use the low viscosity stabilizer but I couldn’t find a place around that had that. My mother’s husband is an old farmer from Saskatchewan up here, he’s had numerous fords and chev’s not sure about modern Hemi’s though and he runs a gallon of Lucas HD oil stabilizer and tops off with convention 15w40. I can’t see that working for me and I see me at the gas station a lot more or unable to start my truck in -40 we get up here sometimes. I don’t think I’ve run the truck past the 10k kms mark but I have gone longer than 6 months between changes. Do you just get UOA’s done at the dealership? I’ve never thought of doing that, I did call them and it’s about $150/hr to diagnose the problem with the truck. Debating if I really need it as everything I’ve read and listen too on YouTube leads me to a hemi tick problem, only unknown is if the mechanic I used botched the manifold gasket and maybe it’s still leaking. He was the one suggested I get the dealership to diagnose it to confirm if it’s the hemi tick or if the manifold is still leaking. I found this strange as that’s usually why you have a mechanic for, I don’t have a computer code reading tool or knowledge to understand that. Could you clarify a couple acronyms I wasn’t familiar with in your post, (tbn), (bgmoa). I will do a video of the tick and get it on here for you to hear, I think I will follow what you guys suggest and try the redline 5w30 and the rp filter. I’m curious if you guys just buy 2 5liter jugs of the stuff or 1 5 L jug and 2 1liters at a time. How often should I change this to try to get the tick under control? I’m capable of changing the oil, it was just more convenient to have it done at a shop as I don’t have a garage and next to impossible to change in winter unless I get a warning winter day. Thanks again!
uoa's at a lab like blackstone, I'm sure they have one up there but I think you can get it done here as well.
 

Wild one

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Thanks for this I will try there, didn’t know about this place, super helpful!
That's one of the local speed shops in town,the others JB's up off Mcknight ,they also carry Redline and Royal Purple,but their selection of Redline oil and Royal Purple filters isn't quite as good. Not sure what part of Calgary you're in,but one of the better dealers around for service etc., is the little Dealer up in Olds.They're far enough out of the city,and in a farming community,to want repeat customers.They've done me a couple favours over the last several years,by looking sideways at some of the things i've done,lol.
 
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