Do I have a lifter going out? YES, I DO!!!!!!

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G-Ride990

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Well, Ed I hope you get your minor issues resolved.

However, on another note, I have an oil catch can(brand new/still on the box), that I never put on my truck due to my miss fortunate accident ...

I asked my older brother if he would like to have it and install it on his 2012 RAM 1500/5.7 liter ... his reply: ... "no, I don't believe in snake oil type crap" ... wth ...

So, if you want it, you can have it ... and that's all I have left to offer, lol!

Hammer down and to an eventual happy motoring.
Very nice of you. Hope it wasn't too bad of an accident.

Took me a few years to convince my dad to let me buy him a catch can. He just wants to leave it stock haha.
 

JHoward

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As good as you have your engine looking I would just leave the cover off, it took me a little while to get used to mine being off, but like the look now.

When I had my RAM truck, I took it off ... it wasn't doing anything useful, other than looks ... it was traping heat that wasn't needed, but to each their own.
 
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EdGs

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Well, Ed I hope you get your minor issues resolved.

However, on another note, I have an oil catch can(brand new/still in the box), that I never put on my truck due to my miss fortunate accident ...

I asked my older brother if he would like to have it and install it on his 2012 RAM 1500/5.7 liter ... his reply: ... "no, I don't believe in snake oil type crap" ... wth ...

So, if you want it, you can have it ... and that's all I have left to offer, lol!

Hammer down and to an eventual happy motoring.
Absolutely, I would like it. Thank you so much!
 

JHoward

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Ok, Ed ... I sent it out to you, it'll show up in a "Genuine NISSAN Performance Parts" box, that doesn't mean it'll get to you any faster, so don't chuck it out into the garbage ... well, you can after you remove it from the box ...

JHoward
 
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JHoward

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... well, I'm curious ... that if you've found the culprit on what was causing the PO-201 code ...?
 
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EdGs

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... well, I'm curious ... that if you've found the culprit on what was causing the PO-201 code ...?
I haven't had a chance to check it out further. Gonna be back at it tomorrow morning, hopefully.

Does anyone know how the injectors are wired into the harness?

Since the 12v from the ASD relay is common to all, is it supplied by one wire, and each injector taps into that? Or do the brown wires on each injector go to a common point?

Sorry for the questions, I haven't had time to look in the electrical section of the FSM yet.
 

Ken226

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I haven't had a chance to check it out further. Gonna be back at it tomorrow morning, hopefully.

Does anyone know how the injectors are wired into the harness?

Since the 12v from the ASD relay is common to all, is it supplied by one wire, and each injector taps into that? Or do the brown wires on each injector go to a common point?

Sorry for the questions, I haven't had time to look in the electrical section of the FSM yet.

First, pull the injector and test it. I hear a 9v battery will work nicely.

Yea, they tie into a common point For the power supplied to the injectors. Same colored wire on each injector. The "where" that this common tie-in occurs, is buried somewhere under a wire loom and would be tough to find.

The PCM controls the injectors on the ground side, so each injector has its own control wire to the PCM. The different colored wires will be the control wires.


Since you've already stated that you had to stretch the wiring harness to make the connections, I'd start with the pins and wiring at the connectors.

Use your scan tool to turn on the suspect injector. If it doesn't turn on, wiggle the harness around while activating the injector. See what/were the bad connection is. If it DOES turn on, keep wiggling the harness with the injector activated until you find the spot where wiggling kills the injector.


If the injector tests good, and the wiggle test doesn't show results, put a test light (icepick style circuit tester) alligator clip on battery+, probe the control side pin of the harness connector, and turn the injector on with the scan tool. When the PCM activates the injector, it should close a path to ground on the control side pin of the injector connector.
 
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Ken226

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I haven't had a chance to check it out further. Gonna be back at it tomorrow morning, hopefully.

Does anyone know how the injectors are wired into the harness?

Since the 12v from the ASD relay is common to all, is it supplied by one wire, and each injector taps into that? Or do the brown wires on each injector go to a common point?

Sorry for the questions, I haven't had time to look in the electrical section of the FSM yet.

While your at it, try and figure out where the harness got misrouted such that it doesn't reach correctly any more.
 
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EdGs

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Thank you @Ken226, not sure what I can do with my reader, I wil have to look that up. Just have an Innova that I got when I threw a check engine light on the way back fron NC (my fuel level sensor decided not to be a team player).
20251102_190924.jpg20251102_190943.jpg20251102_190931.jpg

It was odd that I had no slack in the harness there, Nothing is pinched anywhere I can find, maybe I got things twisted about (I don't see how).

I printed off the pages in the FSM for checking that code, I believe it's gonna be a wire. I made up a pin and short wire that I can insert into the PCM connector and check the output wire to the injector plug (I hope). If I can read the +12 at tge injector connector, I can at least see what is missing, provided the injector coil is not somehow open circuit (highly doubt this, but anything is possible, Ed luck in play....lol)

Just hope its simple to find and fix.
 

Ken226

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Yea, that Innova 3040S is just a basic code reader. It's not gonna be able to do bidirectional control.

You're getting to more of the 'advanced user' level of working on **** Ed. Your probably gonna need to upgrade one of these days. Bidirectional control is a necessity for diagnosing modern cars.

If you ever find yourself looking for a bidirectional scan tool, I did a rundown of mine over the course of a few months of use. Starting around post#10 of this thread

Thread 'What Scan tool do you use.' https://www.ramforum.com/threads/what-scan-tool-do-you-use.214575/



All that said, you can also turn on the injector with AlfaOBD, which you may already own.
 
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EdGs

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Yea, that Innova 3040S is just a basic code reader. It's not gonna be able to do bidirectional control.

You're getting to more of the 'advanced user' level of working on **** Ed. Your probably gonna need to upgrade one of these days. Bidirectional control is a necessity for diagnosing modern cars...........All that said, you can also turn on the injector with AlfaOBD, which you may already own.
Nope, no AlfaOBD either.

Hopefully, I'm not ***ked
 
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EdGs

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So, if I wanted to get Alfa OBD for my 2015 Ram 1500, what hardware would I need, and can I use with my phone or best to use a laptop?

I do have an older, Windows 7 laptop I believe, but also have a newer one with Windows 10.

Thanks
 

Ken226

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There is an android version for your phone (not iPhone)

And/or a windows version, for your laptop. Especially if your laptop has Bluetooth.



Youll also need the obd2 dongle. The OBD Link MX+ is the tried and true gold standard for alfaOBD. It's Bluetooth, so I can use it with my phone and my laptop both.
OBDLink MX+ OBD2 Bluetooth Scanner for iPhone, Android, and Windows https://a.co/d/eEhqAQP


Of course, if you want both versions of Alfa, you gotta buy each version.




Basically, to summarize, you'll need:

Android Phone, OBD Link MX+ and AlfaOBD android version

Or

Bluetooth capable laptop, OBD Link MX+ and AlfaOBD Windows version.


I'd recommend you go with the android phone version. It'll be what most here have experience with, so help will be more readily available if ya need it.
 
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EdGs

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There is an android version for your phone (not iPhone)

And/or a windows version, for your laptop. Especially if your laptop has Bluetooth.



Youll also need the obd2 dongle. The OBD Link MX+ is the tried and true gold standard for alfaOBD. It's Bluetooth, so I can use it with my phone and my laptop both.
OBDLink MX+ OBD2 Bluetooth Scanner for iPhone, Android, and Windows https://a.co/d/eEhqAQP


Of course, if you want both versions of Alfa, you gotta buy each version.




Basically, to summarize, you'll need:

Android Phone, OBD Link MX+ and AlfaOBD android version

Or

Bluetooth capable laptop, OBD Link MX+ and AlfaOBD Windows version.


I'd recommend you go with the android phone version. It'll be what most here have experience with, so help will be more readily available if ya need it.
Thank you,

Hopefully, I won't need to buy anything just yet, and I can find a simple break, between a test light, fluke mutimeter, and a couple small male pins (.025 square) crimped to lengths of wire that hopefilly will mate with the PCM connector and fuse box.
 
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EdGs

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I really don't understand how that harness came up short.

On that side, it comes from the battery/tipm and runs toward the firewall then clipped along the valve cover routing toward the front, then I think around to the A/C compressor, knock sensor, and starter.
 
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EdGs

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Ok guys, I might have screwed the pooch.

I AM SOFA KING STUPID

That harness that was "short" for the alternator
Might have been the injector plug reversed with it.

That being said, I'm hoping that it it didnt plug on fully or else I believe I would have worse problems.

The color codes of the wires do not match with what I have from the FSM

And the plugs fit with no stretch on the alternator.

Hope I didn't f*ck up the PCM

Gonna check my wire paths.
 
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