Do I have a lifter going out? YES, I DO!!!!!!

[EdGs]

UPDATE, June 7, 2025

YES, I DO HAVE A LIFTER GOING OUT!!!

1 cam lobe with moderate damage, 2 more lobes with very slight damage just beginning.



I stopped driving it shortly after I started hearing the noise. I'm so glad I did. It's gonna be an expensive fix, but it could have been much, much worse.

Original post:

2015 SLT QC 8SPD 2WD

201250 miles

Started her up yesterday, heard some intermittent tapping, louder on driver side.

Louder at startup than at full hot. Manifold shields tight. My hearing sucks, I cannot hear it inside the cab, at least, not yet

I'm afraid it might be my time for a cam/lifters.

Here's my first video, cold start. Pardon my fingers in the way,

2015 Ram 1500 Bad Lifter? YES, cylinder 5

Cold startup of my 2015 Ram 1500, it's making an intermittent tap, tap, tap. Turns out, #5 intake lifter needles worn/gone. 201,250 miles.

youtu.be

Thoughts?

More video shortly, stay tuned.

 

[EdGs]

2nd video, after about 1 minute of running:

2015 Ram, bad lifter? after 1 minute of warmup.

youtu.be

 

[Ken226]

201250 miles


I'm afraid it might be my time for a cam/lifters.

Yea, that's the higher probability given the mileage, intermittent nature and the fact that it's still doing it when hot.

Pull the valve covers and check the valve springs, push rods and see if any rockers have less range of motion than the others, when rotating the engine

 

[Burla]

If that were my truck, redline 5w30 and a RP 20-820 would be going in.

 

[EdGs]

After a 25 mile run home, coolant 203°, oil temp 210°

2015 Ram 1500, bad lifter? At operating temp

youtu.be

 

[HemiBrother]

As intermittent the tic is safe to say you are correct on might be time for cam and lifters or with miles like that replacing engine.

 

[EdGs]

If that were my truck, redline 5w30 and a RP 20-820 would be going in.

I think it's beyond Redline's help at the moment. I do run a Fram FE2, though.

 

[EdGs]

As intermittent the tic is safe to say you are correct on might be time for cam and lifters or with miles like that replacing engine.

I will likely opt for repair, as I know what's been done to her over the years. OE for critical parts, going to keep the MDS.

Debating on how far to go, such as New (oe) oil pump, timing set, cam phaser, valve springs, etc.

Any and all input and suggestions welcomed, and encouraged.

I have only ever replaced 1 set of head gaskets in my life, on my '02 Ram 1500 4.7. I'm confident I can do the work. I have access to a lift and tools, although I might need to buy a couple new tools.......lol.

I likely will have lots of questions as I dig into this, and it will be a long process as I am not exceptionally fast, and I have a full-time job and other of life's duties as well.

 

[Ken226]

I will likely opt for repair, as I know what's been done to her over the years..

That your tackling it this early instead of continuing to drive it is probably why repair will be a viable option.

Pull the intake and valve covers. While checking the parts I mentioned above, look at the VVT solenoid and check for metal in the screen.

After you've done those things and the guesses are resolved into certainties, you can start planning your course of action.

 

[EdGs]

That your tackling it this early instead of continuing to drive it is probably why repair will be a viable option.

To tell you the truth, I'm not sure how long it might have been doing this. I happened to have the door open when I started her up, and that's when I heard the tap.

It very well might have been happening longer as I cant hear it from inside the cab.

I have to run her a couple blocks away and get my other truck to use for the time being.

I am nervous as hell over this, and it couldn't have happened at a worse time for me. It will likely be the weekend before I can dig in on this further.

 

[Burla]

I think it's beyond Redline's help at the moment. I do run a Fram FE2, though.

It may or may not be, only one way to find out. I'm sure you have read the redline thread, it amazes most guys that try it, but yeah not 100%, but pretty close. But you have to use an oil, this we can agree on I'm sure. Worst case it doesn't work and it costs 87 bucks, up 4 bucks from yesterday bummer. And at 200k miles, I would wager the % would be more like 50/50 then the 80% we have seen with lower mileage engines. The results are public on the poll, so it's not me saying what the results were but the forum.

My tick was at least that loud and annoying. Knock wood been generally silent for 15 years now mostly redline 5w30, one *** 5w20 and 10w30.

Here's the problem, replacing lifters and cam likely has a less chance at killing hemi tick then redline. Stop your laughing, it is totally true But the tragedy of the many guys who did that, it cost them 6 grand to find out they still had the tick after. Replacing lifters/cam should be the last resort only after a misfire code on specific cylinder. And in your case why even think about that, at 200k miles it is new engine or bust imo. No way would I be fixing cam/lifters in an engine that worn, unless maybe I did they work myself. good luck Ed, you could also dump biotech in now, see if you get any results.


.

 

[BadHemi2014]

Definitely follow the above advice and take a look to try to confirm if there's a rocker not moving like the others. There is a diy cam thread in here somewhere.
Other than the intermittent tap, that's one of the quietest hemis ever.

 

[HemiBrother]

If diagnosing shows lifters and cam needs replaced at 200k you’d be better off just replacing the motor. 200k for a Hemi is imo a accomplishment yes there’s plenty of them out there 200k plus miles running strong but doesn’t mean it’s worth the cost and time only rebuilding one portion of it. Replacing cam and lifters or swapping motor out for a new one going to result with a day or two of wrenching but new motor is imo a sleep easy for many nights where cam and lifters on high mileage motor is a go to bed each night wondering how long till something else shows how worn out it is.

 

[EdGs]

While I was going down the youtube rabbit hole, I ran across a video about a cracked flex plate.

Could that be a possibility for my situation?

 

[EdGs]

If diagnosing shows lifters and cam needs replaced at 200k you’d be better off just replacing the motor. 200k for a Hemi is imo a accomplishment yes there’s plenty of them out there 200k plus miles running strong but doesn’t mean it’s worth the cost and time only rebuilding one portion of it. Replacing cam and lifters or swapping motor out for a new one going to result with a day or two of wrenching but new motor is imo a sleep easy for many nights where cam and lifters on high mileage motor is a go to bed each night wondering how long till something else shows how worn out it is.

What makes my situation difficult is the money aspect, I am in a pretty deep hole, so 2k in parts is every bit as difficult as 6k for a crate engine, at the moment.

The only saving grace is I know where it's been and how hard it's been driven.

 

[Ludville1]

I'm with Burla on this one. Try Redline 5w30, RP 20-820 first. If that doesn't do it, and you are sure that it's a cam/lifter issue, a new/remanufactured engine is in order, if you plan on keeping the truck for a while. In my case my '09 has over 163K miles on it and even though it runs strong and quiet now, if it needed a cam/lifters I would just replace the engine. To me, it's not worth throwing several thousand $$$ at an engine with that many miles on it.

 

[HemiBrother]

What makes my situation difficult is the money aspect, I am in a pretty deep hole, so 2k in parts is every bit as difficult as 6k for a crate engine, at the moment.

The only saving grace is I know where it's been and how hard it's been driven.

I get what you’re saying but rather it’s a hard 200,000 miles or easy 200,000 miles it’s still a well worn 200,000 mile engine and 2 grand now is almost a guaranteed 6 more grand on a motor not far down the road. Yeah could be pretty far down the road but realistically 200,000 to 300,000 miles is all the more hemis are willing to go yes some make it further but far more don’t. But if indeed that cam or lifters wore out and ran any material through that motor well it could be 100 miles down the road and bearing failure. If the truck was well maintained and kept rust free I feel you would be keeping your self out of a bigger hole just replacing the motor with a new one. Like others have stated you can try an oil and filter strategy for time being. Can then start saving money towards a new motor once misfire codes start coming up for when misfire codes start getting thrown from bad lifters/cam it would be wise to do just motor swap at that point.

 

[CanuckRam1313]

I will likely opt for repair, as I know what's been done to her over the years. OE for critical parts, going to keep the MDS.

Debating on how far to go, such as New (oe) oil pump, timing set, cam phaser, valve springs, etc.

Any and all input and suggestions welcomed, and encouraged.

I have only ever replaced 1 set of head gaskets in my life, on my '02 Ram 1500 4.7. I'm confident I can do the work. I have access to a lift and tools, although I might need to buy a couple new tools.......lol.

I likely will have lots of questions as I dig into this, and it will be a long process as I am not exceptionally fast, and I have a full-time job and other of life's duties as well.

Sorry Bud it's happening to you!

Given the mileage, personally, if you're going into this, do it all right and complete and don't look back
Timing set, oil pump, cam phaser, springs, spark plugs, PCV valve, etc.... as well as the obvious cam & lifters, etc.

Perhaps, do a compression test beforehand so you have an understanding of the condition of your engine, too?

Not sure if you've done the trans service lately and/or have Caulk's upgraded bypass valve in there.... maybe do a major service there as well at the same time.

 

[EdGs]

Sorry Bud it's happening to you!

Given the mileage, personally, if you're going into this, do it all right and complete and don't look back
Timing set, oil pump, cam phaser, springs, spark plugs, PCV valve, etc.... as well as the obvious cam & lifters, etc.

Perhaps, do a compression test beforehand so you have an understanding of the condition of your engine, too?

Not sure if you've done the trans service lately and/or have Caulk's upgraded bypass valve in there.... maybe do a major service there as well at the same time.

Good idea on the compression test.

I am due for an 8 speed service, and I want a PPE pan and @caulk04's bypass as well. That will have to be after.

I have no misfire codes atm, and I might not be able to see any noticeable difference in valve travel if it is early enough.

If valve travel appears normal, then it will have to be torn down to inspect the lifters/cam, especially if no metal is on the oil control valve.

Oil strategy is fine, but if there is a problem brewing, I don't want to run it to the point of misfire, then bearing damage chances increase.

Yes, to all parts you reference, plus new OCV and MDS solenoids, IMO.

The cam and crank bearings are concerning if needing changed.

Thank you all so much for your input. Keep the suggestions coming.

 

[EdGs]

Other than the intermittent tap, that's one of the quietest hemis ever.

You really think so?

She has been a great truck, and I'd love to give her a new lease on life.