Do I have a lifter going out? YES, I DO!!!!!!

[CanuckRam1313]

Good idea on the compression test.

I am due for an 8 speed service, and I want a PPE pan and @caulk04's bypass as well. That will have to be after.

I have no misfire codes atm, and I might not be able to see any noticeable difference in valve travel if it is early enough.

If valve travel appears normal, then it will have to be torn down to inspect the lifters/cam, especially if no metal is on the oil control valve.

Oil strategy is fine, but if there is a problem brewing, I don't want to run it to the point of misfire, then bearing damage chances increase.

Yes, to all parts you reference, plus new OCV and MDS solenoids, IMO.

The cam and crank bearings are concerning if needing changed.

Thank you all so much for your input. Keep the suggestions coming.

Here's the other consideration....

For the $3 to $4 thousand for all the parts & consumables (or more), given the mileage and the input regarding bearings, etc., perhaps you go for a new engine altogether and call it done?

You'd then be starting fresh and have a new engine warranty as well.

You could then maybe donate the old engine to a local school for learning purposes?

 

[Adamcr68]

2015 SLT QC 8SPD 2WD

201250 miles

Started her up yesterday, heard some intermittent tapping, louder on driver side.

Louder at startup than at full hot. Manifold shields tight. My hearing sucks, I cannot hear it inside the cab, at least, not yet

I'm afraid it might be my time for a cam/lifters.

Here's my first video, cold start. Pardon my fingers in the way,

2015 Ram 1500 Bad Lifter? YES, cylinder 5

Cold startup of my 2015 Ram 1500, it's making an intermittent tap, tap, tap. Turns out, #5 intake lifter needles worn/gone. 201,250 miles.

youtu.be

Thoughts?

More video shortly, stay tuned.

Hate to see this, I’m closing in to 100k & remembering your post about hitting 200k, I was thinking my mileage wasn’t worth posting about when the time comes.
I hope you can get back on the road without too much pain/expense & down time.

 

[EdGs]

Here's the other consideration....

For the $3 to $4 thousand for all the parts & consumables (or more), given the mileage and the input regarding bearings, etc., perhaps you go for a new engine altogether and call it done?

You'd then be starting fresh and have a new engine warranty as well.

You could then maybe donate the old engine to a local school for learning purposes?

If I bought a new engine, I would keep the core, take my time, and completely refresh it.

The main bearings and cam bearings are what worries me the most about mine, but I am putting the cart before the horse (hoping I open the valve covers and find a lightly broken valve spring, yeah I am dreaming....lol).

 

[EdGs]

Hate to see this, I’m closing in to 100k & remembering your post about hitting 200k, I was thinking my mileage wasn’t worth posting about when the time comes.
I hope you can get back on the road without too much pain/expense & down time.

Hey, 100k IS worth posting, IMO. I'll raise my glass to that.

Yes, I hope the issue is easy to find and the fix is an easy and lasting one.

If I can go another 100k on her, then I will think about a complete overhaul.

 

[Adamcr68]

Hey, 100k IS worth posting, IMO. I'll raise my glass to that.

Yes, I hope the issue is easy to find and the fix is an easy and lasting one.

If I can go another 100k on her, then I will think about a complete overhaul.

I ‘ve been planning on the same thing, gonna try to start saving some $ if/when mine needs a rebuild.
Your post motivated me to stop planning & start doing because you never know when it might happen, regardless of keeping up with all the maintenance.

 

[EdGs]

I ‘ve been planning on the same thing, gonna try to start saving some $ if/when mine needs a rebuild.
Your post motivated me to stop planning & start doing because you never know when it might happen, regardless of keeping up with all the maintenance.

If you can save up for the day you need it, absolutely.

My problem is, I don't know how I am going to pay for the parts I believe I will need.

But, it is what it is, and I am about to start on the beast. I just finished cleaning out the shop to make room in case I have to tear her down.

First, I'm going to check her for codes. I do not have an engine light at the moment.

Then, it's stethascope time, to see if I can narrow down the problem area.

Really hoping I caught it early, and have something relatively simple going on, we will see.

 

[EdGs]

Ready to start. Engine cover off.

No engine codes.

When I put the stethascope near the #5 coilpack, I can hear the intermittet tap, lightly. Cannot get near #7 from the ground, topside creeper at the ready:

 

[EdGs]

Well, I seem to hear the noise best on the intake side of the valve cover from #5 to #7.

The noise is not very loud, just that intermittent tap, tap, tap every so often. Intake side of #7, I hear a more metallic sound, more like if you grab a worn ball bearing by the inner race and spin it with your other hand, a clicky, crumply sound, if that makes any sense.

That said, I do not hear anything close to that on the right valve cover.

Stay tuned, Same bat channel......lol

 

[Ken226]

Well, I seem to hear the noise best on the intake side of the valve cover from #5 to #7.

The noise is not very loud, just that intermittent tap, tap, tap every so often. Intake side of #7, I hear a more metallic sound, more like if you grab a worn ball bearing by the inner race and spin it with your other hand, a clicky, crumply sound, if that makes any sense.

That said, I do not hear anything close to that on the right valve cover.

Stay tuned, Same bat channel......lol

Just a wild guess, but possible a lifter yoke broke and letting a lifter rotate around? It wouldnt be the first time

I wonder if a bore scope could see that.

 

[EdGs]

Well, I gave up for today. I have not opened her up yet.

One question, the first of maybe many:

If I first remove the valve cover for odd cylinders, should the rocker assemblies all be stiff, as in no lash to the pushrods or valve springs?

 

[Dodge 1500 4X4]

The only ones that will be stiff are the ones that are under cam pressure meaning (intake or exhaust stroke), I've listened to all of your audios and the one that's more pronounced is slightly after a cold start you may have a lifter that has lost pressure, do this before you do a cold start perform a Clear/Flood (pedal to floor and crank for no more that 5sec let off gas pedal and push the start button or crank if you have a key start, I would do what @Burla says, do the 7 qt of Redline full synthetic, 20-820 royal purple filter 15oz Lube Gard Biotech, you may have a broken valve spring you will have lower compression in that cylinder prompted by a misfire, the way you've taken care of this truck got to say lower end is good, I would do a UOA and send it to Blackstone Laboratories for now, do the oil change/ Filter and Lubegard before you crack it open.

Also, you're not going to see anything W/ borescope you have to remove the heads to see the lifters.

 

[EdGs]

The only ones that will be stiff are the ones that are under cam pressure meaning (intake or exhaust stroke), I've listened to all of your audios and the one that's more pronounced is slightly after a cold start you may have a lifter that has lost pressure, do this before you do a cold start perform a Clear/Flood (pedal to floor and crank for no more that 5sec let off gas pedal and push the start button or crank if you have a key start, I would do what @Burla says, do the 7 qt of Redline full synthetic, 20-820 royal purple filter 15oz Lube Gard Biotech, you may have a broken valve spring you will have lower compression in that cylinder prompted by a misfire, the way you've taken care of this truck got to say lower end is good, I would do a UOA and send it to Blackstone Laboratories for now, do the oil change/ Filter and Lubegard before you crack it open.

Also, you're not going to see anything W/ borescope you have to remove the heads to see the lifters.

No misfire yet, and I really don't want to wait until one shows up either. Hopefully, tomorrow I will get the valve cover pulled for that side, and at least see if there's a spring issue.

Was going to use the truck for a trip to NC in a few weeks. Will have Wife, MIL, and 2 dogs. Don't need it deciding to fail when we're hundreds of miles away from home, either.

I do still have my last FE2 from my oil change about a month ago. Will cut it open and take a look inside.

 

[jws123]

Sounds like a roller on a lifter getting ready to break off.

 

[EdGs]

I cut open my FE2 from my last oil change approx. 1 month ago, thread here:

Fram FE2 cut open, from my 2015 1500 SLT with possible early lifter failure.

2015 Ram 1500 SLT 5.7, 201250 miles. In the process of figuring out whether I have a bad lifter, discussed in this thread: https://www.ramforum.com/threads/do-i-have-a-lifter-going-out.218028/ Decided to cut open my FE2 from my last OC about 1 month ago. 10k miles on the oci. Pardon my...

www.ramforum.com

 

[EdGs]

Started the teardown. Damn, is my engine dirty. Time for some cleaning while I'm at it.

 

[Zoe Saldana]

Try LUBEGARD with your next oil change.

 

[EdGs]

Try LUBEGARD with your next oil change.

I ran lubegard several oil changes in a row awhile back, could tell no difference.

 

[EdGs]

Well, just got the waterpump off, and got interrupted in the middle and mixed up a couple bolts. Just my luck, but no biggie.

Gonna call it a night.

 

[Zoe Saldana]

Did you try Burla's Redline solution. I forgot the weight.

I ran lubegard several oil changes in a row awhile back, could tell no difference.

 

[EdGs]

Did you try Burla's Redline solution. I forgot the weight.

No, I did not.

There's definately something going on with my engine, and there is some metal in my oil filter from my last oil change about a month ago.

I'm in the process of tearing her down now.

Given the high mileage I have, I don't want to wait until I have a misfire and potentially material circulating through the engine. I'm almost to the point of pulling the intake to check the oil control valve.

Then on to the lifters and cam to see what is going on there.