Engine tick question

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Rod Knock

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The tick is definitely louder on the drivers sound. I don’t here much at all on the passenger side.
What @HEMIMANN said, he's right. My broken bolt was on the passenger side. I replaced the manifold, gasket, and bolts, all new. You can reuse the old manifold, but you should take it to a machine shop to check it and machine it flat before putting it back on. The passenger side is much easier to replace. If that doesn't help, you got more significant problems that lube or replaced manifolds can't fix. Don't forget. I advised you initially to have the valve covers pulled to measure your valve lift to rule out lifter issues.
 
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dkelly3103

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What @HEMIMANN said, he's right. My broken bolt was on the passenger side. I replaced the manifold, gasket, and bolts, all new. You can reuse the old manifold, but you should take it to a machine shop to check it and machine it flat before putting it back on. The passenger side is much easier to replace. If that doesn't help, you got more significant problems that lube or replaced manifolds can't fix. Don't forget. I advised you initially to have the valve covers pulled to measure your valve lift to rule out lifter issues.
The tick is definitely coming from the drivers side. If it was an exhaust leak on the passenger I would think it would be more pronounced on that side rather the drivers side. At this point with as many miles as I’ve put on it since I got it, and the fact it’s been ticking since i got it, I think I’m just going to drive it and not worry about it. If it truly is somthing that’s causing any internal damage then it would have shown up by now.
 

JimmyO

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I had this.
My dealer called it piston slap. Because I was still within my warranty, I got a new engine.
 

Rod Knock

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I had this.
My dealer called it piston slap. Because I was still within my warranty, I got a new engine.
Do you mean to say it wasn't something that a mechanic in a bottle could fix? I'm shocked, lost for words, let me tell ya...
 

crackerjack1957

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The tick is definitely coming from the drivers side. If it was an exhaust leak on the passenger I would think it would be more pronounced on that side rather the drivers side. At this point with as many miles as I’ve put on it since I got it, and the fact it’s been ticking since i got it, I think I’m just going to drive it and not worry about it. If it truly is somthing that’s causing any internal damage then it would have shown up by now.
Have you checked for exhaust leak on driver's side where convertor y-pipe bolts to exhaust manifold?
 
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dkelly3103

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Have you checked for exhaust leak on driver's side where convertor y-pipe bolts to exhaust manifold?
From what I understand the gasket/seal is built into the exhaust manifold, and the manifold is new. If it’s leaking how would I go about sealing the leak?
 

Rod Knock

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From what I understand the gasket/seal is built into the exhaust manifold, and the manifold is new. If it’s leaking how would I go about sealing the leak?
No, it's not. They're to separate pieces. Look at the pictures I posted in this thread.
 
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dkelly3103

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No, it's not. They're to separate pieces. Look at the pictures I posted in this thread.
Just looked back and unless I missed it I didn’t see anything showing a picture of the seal. So your saying there is suppose to be a separate seal between the y-pipe and exhaust manifold?
 

Rod Knock

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Just looked back and unless I missed it I didn’t see anything showing a picture of the seal. So your saying there is suppose to be a separate seal between the y-pipe and exhaust manifold?

No, I was talking about the exhaust manifold as it bolts to the cylinder head.
 
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dkelly3103

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No, I was talking about the exhaust manifold as it bolts to the cylinder head.
I was replying to the comment regarding a possible leak at the y-pipe. I know there’s a gasket between the head and exhaust manifold lol. Is there suppose to be a seal between the y-pipe and manifold though?
 

crackerjack1957

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The tick is definitely coming from the drivers side. If it was an exhaust leak on the passenger I would think it would be more pronounced on that side rather the drivers side. At this point with as many miles as I’ve put on it since I got it, and the fact it’s been ticking since i got it, I think I’m just going to drive it and not worry about it. If it truly is somthing that’s causing any internal damage then it would have shown up by now.
Have checked for exhaust leak on driver's side where convertor y-pipe bolts to exhaust manifold?
I was replying to the comment regarding a possible leak at the y-pipe. I know there’s a gasket between the head and exhaust manifold lol. Is there suppose to be a seal between the y-pipe and manifold though?
No but it could be damaged/deformed on the y-pipe end......over torqued or overheated with torch from previous owner's attempts.......O2 sensor loose but not likely without throwing code.

If no wind & can block fan air from engine in that area could try lit candle/long reach lighter trick......move flame around flange with engine running & see if it starts to dance.....LoL
 
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Rod Knock

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Is there suppose to be a seal between the y-pipe and manifold though?
Nope, because it's conical. Torque spec for that one is 19 ft-lb.
I would definitively check the passenger side manifold, it's cheap insurance.
 
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dkelly3103

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Have checked for exhaust leak on driver's side where convertor y-pipe bolts to exhaust manifold?

No but it could be damaged/deformed on the y-pipe end......over torqued or overheated with torch from previous owner's attempts.......O2 sensor loose but not likely without throwing code.

If no wind & can block fan air from engine in that area could try lit candle/long reach lighter trick......move flame around flange with engine running & see if it starts to dance.....LoL
That’s a great idea, I’ll have to try that. Thanks
 

moulin6801

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My developed engine tic noise noticed around 10K miles, used to fill up a Kroger discount & Sams.... someone told me to try 93 Oct gas. So I went to shell, filled up with 93 Oc, noise was gone, truck was feeling strong... No 166K miles, never had an engine problem and still drives like it is new!
However did have the water leaking in the rear seat problem and cruise control...otherwise has been a GREAT truck. Laramie 4x4 2013 crewcab.
 

Dirty D

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by any chance do you hear it while engine is warmed up on the freeway...say you get up to 65-70 and let off the gas and just roll? my 2011 has a tick that sort of sounds like what you have going on...i hear mine loudest when driving next to the concrete center divides on freeways and passing other vehicles.
 
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dkelly3103

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by any chance do you hear it while engine is warmed up on the freeway...say you get up to 65-70 and let off the gas and just roll? my 2011 has a tick that sort of sounds like what you have going on...i hear mine loudest when driving next to the concrete center divides on freeways and passing other vehicles.
If you mean when mds engages while your coating then yes. The ticking is a lot more aggressive in this situation though, so I just keep mds disengaged. I can’t say for certain if it does it at freeway speeds when I let off to coast though, I know for sure it does it 15-20mph when coasting.
 

HEMIMANN

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If you mean when mds engages while your coating then yes. The ticking is a lot more aggressive in this situation though, so I just keep mds disengaged. I can’t say for certain if it does it at freeway speeds when I let off to coast though, I know for sure it does it 15-20mph when coasting.

This is interesting. Another member noted when he turned his MDS back on, his ticking went down or away.

I wonder if your experience doesn't have to do with the oil flow rate being lower when coasting? What oil filter are you using?
 
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dkelly3103

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I ran a carquest premium filter for a while. For the last few oil changes I’ve been using a motorcraft as i read multiple different places they have a superior anti drain back valve in comparison to most filters. I’ll try leaving mds on and see if the hot idle tick changes any? Never thought about that.
 

HEMIMANN

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I ran a carquest premium filter for a while. For the last few oil changes I’ve been using a motorcraft as i read multiple different places they have a superior anti drain back valve in comparison to most filters. I’ll try leaving mds on and see if the hot idle tick changes any? Never thought about that.

In the Oil Filter Thread there's much discussion about effect of different filters on oil flow. It's an important discussion because we have field data that shows Hemi valve lifters are extremely sensitive to lubrication. Many of us work to supply oil as reliably as possible by using low flow restriction oil filters, in conjunction with super oils that have many additives to supplant the base oil. It's unfortunate the modern Hemi was designed to be so sensitive, but it is what it is and the consequences of failure are catastrophic engine destruction and loss of vehicle use. So it matters a helluva lot.
 

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