Exhaust Manifolds | Warped

[shadowhawk]

interesting.

 

[shadowhawk]

So...from ebay...at 25% of the cost of the top brand names what do I have to lose but install time...see pics

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have you installed them already? I'm curious on how the fit is.

 

[Daddyhas2boys]

Yes...already installed...the hardest fitment was connecting the cross pipe into the y pipe but I used a hydraulic jack to push into place and clamp down, the other part was the oil dip stick was a lil tricky but it fits in between the pipes on the header...but well worth it...I have an audio clip but it won't let me load it

 

[Daddyhas2boys]

Check you kustomblack motorsports on you tube and also lukes garage on a lot of ideas and advise on how to do it...if you have broken bolts my advise is using a center punch, 90 degree angle attachment with left handed drill bits and it that doesn't work use Dewalt drill bits with a craftsman extractor set...I ended up using the extractor set myself...see pics

 

[shadowhawk]

well, my passenger side is done. I don't know if I'll wait for the driver's side or just do it before something breaks. Probably the later so I don't have one snap in the head.

 

[Flatblack79]

Mine is starting at 86K miles. Thinking of going for shorty headers so i dont have to deal with tuning. Any input on BBK or JBA stuff? Looks like ARH doesnt do shortys anymore.

 

[Thale51]

Mine is starting at 86K miles. Thinking of going for shorty headers so i dont have to deal with tuning. Any input on BBK or JBA stuff? Looks like ARH doesnt do shortys anymore.

I'm in the same boat. I had 3 bolts replaced a little over a year ago under the powertrain warranty at around 78,000 miles. I'm at 96,000 now, out of the warranty period, and hearing the tick again. Anyone know what the average cost is for just the bolt/gasket replacement at a shop? Just curious to see what the average price is compared to just doing a shorty header swap.

 

[shadowhawk]

The stealership wanted $900 a side when I checked on it

 

[Dodge 1500 4X4]

How about changing the bolts, and machining the exhaust manifolds before this broken bolts and ticking appear, I don't know how about a certain mileage you do the job and avoid broken bolts kind of like Preventative Maintenance.

 

[HiddenFly]

Anything we can do to try to prevent this from happening? Re-torque the bolts?


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[jeff mitchner]

Any of you experience this in the 4.7 also. I got one doing the exact same thing.

 

[Flatblack79]

Had to remove mine and resurface them over the weekend. Not a terrible job but certainly wasn't fun. Shouldnt be a problem again though.

 

[Pickles]

This finally happened a few weeks ago to my truck. I think "no big deal", I'll just treat myself to an upgrade with a nice pair of shorty headers, spend a Saturday with a few beers and greasy hands.

Friday morning I get my truck in the garage. Get the manifolds off fine - I have 4 (out of 17) bolts sheared off flush with the head. Damn. A few hours of drilling, cussing and extracting later, I have 3 of the 4 bolt remnants out. I spend the next 5 hours trying to get bolt #4 out. Then 6 hours Saturday ... then 3 more hours Sunday.

All told, I broke 19 drill bits (from black oxide to cobolt), 5 extractors, and the grand finale was me finally drilling clean through the stuck bolt, not stopping the drill in time, and that spanking new, extra-sharp cobolt bit chewing through my head and into the coolant passage.

****.

So I'll have it towed for a new head.....and to get those headers put on. Still waiting for an estimate on the head - any ideas how many top ramen meals my family is in for?

 

[Tim Garceau]

Painfully hard to read someone drilled through to the coolant passage when welding a washer/nut on the end is the simple solution.

Hope it works out for you, if it’s through the backside you could try some JB weld in the head and high temp gasket maker on the bolt threads.

What do you have to lose but a little more time? Sorry

 

[ripping r]

This finally happened a few weeks ago to my truck. I think "no big deal", I'll just treat myself to an upgrade with a nice pair of shorty headers, spend a Saturday with a few beers and greasy hands.

Friday morning I get my truck in the garage. Get the manifolds off fine - I have 4 (out of 17) bolts sheared off flush with the head. Damn. A few hours of drilling, cussing and extracting later, I have 3 of the 4 bolt remnants out. I spend the next 5 hours trying to get bolt #4 out. Then 6 hours Saturday ... then 3 more hours Sunday.

All told, I broke 19 drill bits (from black oxide to cobolt), 5 extractors, and the grand finale was me finally drilling clean through the stuck bolt, not stopping the drill in time, and that spanking new, extra-sharp cobolt bit chewing through my head and into the coolant passage.

****.

So I'll have it towed for a new head.....and to get those headers put on. Still waiting for an estimate on the head - any ideas how many top ramen meals my family is in for?

I would tap to the next size. Put a stud with hi heat sealant on it and call it a day.

 

[Pickles]

Painfully hard to read someone drilled through to the coolant passage when welding a washer/nut on the end is the simple solution.

Hope it works out for you, if it’s through the backside you could try some JB weld in the head and high temp gasket maker on the bolt threads.

What do you have to lose but a little more time? Sorry

Well, as I know no one with a welding rig, and have zero welding experience myself, didn't seem like a great idea to "learn on the job".

Also, with as much as I did, I wonder if the damn thing wasn't cross-threaded from the factory. Cross-thread + loctite = I was screwed before I even knew it. The other bolts I extracted went just fine - this one never budged.

I've thought about trying to fill with RTV and a stud, but as I want this engine to last a good long while, I'm just going to go ahead and replace the head. I do enough with a very heavy trailer that while I would bet the RTV+stud would work, I want to KNOW it's going to work.

The quote is about $1,750 for a new head, all new hardware, and labor. Oh well - live and learn.

 

[Tom8]

I have a 2014 5.7 that had one side Of the exhaust bolt snapped when warranty went out. They fixed it under powertrain warranty. Then a few thousand miles later the opposite side broke. They fixed that under my powertrain warranty as well. 73k now and pretty good. I tow a lot and under a lot of heat stress and glad they snapped early and now the exhaust are all stressed in.
They should have just put in shorty to begin with. Cheap folks.

 

[scott lass 18]

That's a nice thought, but I have serious doubts that Ram Cares will give a darn about my truck seeing as it's no longer under warranty and 10 years old. If it was 10 months old and not 10 years, maybe. I appreciate your input nonetheless though. So far the dealer hasn't given me any reason to be doubtful, so no reason to be concerned at this stage in the game. I've generally had very good luck with dealerships in my years of owning MOPARs. I've largely been very pleased with them across the board.

I called mopar and mine was covered powertran 2010 59,000 one was way worped .008 so dealer replace it have 100,000 drive train warrenty so payed 100.00 on my fix ? had fuel injectoer bad too ! glade my dealer did lots of work and running ok now !

 

[Tom8]

I called mopar and mine was covered powertran 2010 59,000 one was way worped .008 so dealer replace it have 100,000 drive train warrenty so payed 100.00 on my fix ? had fuel injectoer bad too ! glade my dealer did lots of work and running ok now !

Isn’t powertrain warranty 100k or 5 years? Glad you got it paid for.

 

[scott lass 18]

on powertrain u can go for 7 years but guess cant get them to put a 6.1 cam it sadly ! i d have extra holes drill to oil lifters better too if u can !