Exhaust Manifolds | Warped
- Thread starter RampantJourneys
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NWLakes
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I have very recently replaced passenger side exhaust manifold due to increasing tapping noise. There was one broken stud and was warped. After part was replaced the tapping continued. Was told that Hemi's also have issues with poor oil distribution at front crank bearings. Not the news i was looking for. I can't afford the obvious cost of this repair so i guess i have to ride it out. Damn shame cuz this 2008 Bighorn is in great shape body wise unlike a lot i've seen up here in Canada. Cheers guys.
Just a heads up that things don't always turn out according to plan.
Just a heads up that things don't always turn out according to plan.
Went to the dealer today for the snapped bolt I found. They ended up replacing two bolts, new gasket and new manifold. Said it was warped. Claimed warming up the engine when cold before driving will help prevent it in the future.
El_Dude
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Can you link me to where you found them? Also what gasket/bolts are you going with?
NOV87
Senior Member
As mentioned before on ramforum, new OEM manifolds will warp sooner or later, once they go through a complete heat cycle. The fix is to belt sand the already warped ones to where they're flat and put them back in, with new gaskets and hardware. The manifolds only warp once. I had both sides done on my truck by an independent shop. It's been good for the last two years and 40k miles.
CheechDogg.0n37s
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Or replace them with shorty headers
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Sure -
https://americanracingheaders.com/c...-ram-2500-5-7l-6-4l-truck-2015-up-long-system
Shop around for pricing. GT Exhaust, a vendor on the forum has pretty good pricing.
Interesting so basically they will just warp again? I'll probably put headers eventually but am still on powertrain warranty so figured why put in the effort when the dealer will do it for me. Granted it would be easier to do headers before a bolt breaks again.
CheechDogg.0n37s
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So how bad is this? Lol @the_goodguy07 definitely has a broken manifold bolt ... one that we saw on the passenger's side ...
We didn't check the driver's side but a good chunk of it is still in there ... going to try and weld a nut to see if we can get that ****** out lol ... any other way lol ...
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We didn't check the driver's side but a good chunk of it is still in there ... going to try and weld a nut to see if we can get that ****** out lol ... any other way lol ...
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El_Dude
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Hopefully i get mine replaced before this happens.So how bad is this? Lol @the_goodguy07 definitely has a broken manifold bolt ... one that we saw on the passenger's side ...
We didn't check the driver's side but a good chunk of it is still in there ... going to try and weld a nut to see if we can get that ****** out lol ... any other way lol ...
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CheechDogg.0n37s
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Lol yes ... we're trying to figure out how to get it out.... hopefully that's the only one lol
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El_Dude
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From what I've read on this forum there is some trick to like welding a bolt to a nut or something. Sorry I don't remember the exact thing they did. If this happens to my truck I'll have to get someone to fix for me cuz I don't know how to extract broken bolts or have any knowledge on welding lol. Good luck man, and please post your results.
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CheechDogg.0n37s
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Tim Garceau
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I wouldn’t get too carried away because you still want the bolts to clamp before bottoming out the threads. .020”+ would be an extreme out of flatness.
Great question though. Keep in mind the m8 bolt is 1.25 pitch which is a little over 20 threads per inch.
EdGs
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Seems like you could use a washer under the bolt head if you had to.
Anyone know how thick the flanges of the manifolds are?
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Tim Garceau
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Aftermarket headers with 3/8” flange use 25mm under head length bolts.
The OEM bolts I believe are 40mm under head, so with 5/8” thread engagement the cast iron flange is just under an inch(~24mm).
Can measure mine sitting on the shelf later for confirmation.
The OEM bolts I believe are 40mm under head, so with 5/8” thread engagement the cast iron flange is just under an inch(~24mm).
Can measure mine sitting on the shelf later for confirmation.
I feel your pain for the TAP TAP TAP which in my case turned out to be a rod bearing. Mine was taken care of by my dealership. They replaced the engine instead of doing a rebuild.
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We can get you set up with the ARH headers. They are one of the best quality brands for the RAM. Quality is great and fitment is great as well. Plus the added performance bonus is a plus. Most of all the 3/8' flange will NOT warp like stock manifold flange does.
Message me if you would like a quote
