Exhaust Manifolds | Warped

[Wild one]

Doesn't look like they'll ship to BC, but I found that Lordco has them listed at nearly the same price point. But thank you for the suggestion.

I've found a local neighbour with a lift and a mig welder, so I might be able to tackle the re & re with his help.

Now I'm looking locally for a machine shop that might be able to mill the manifolds flat.

Then I can start assembling the parts I need to get the process started. Any thoughts on best options for the fasteners?

Stock bolts are perfectly fine,you're only torquing the manifolds to 20 lb-ft,if you're using the Remflex gaskets

 

[Hagar1]

Stock bolts are perfectly fine,you're only torquing the manifolds to 20 lb-ft,if you're using the Remflex gaskets

I used OEM gaskets but I reduced torque on the back bolts by 1 or 2 lb ft. OEM bolts or Dorman bolt will work ok. Don't know if it made a difference but now a few years later, they are still ok.

 

[Gero]

Its been about 10k on my set up and the ram has never been quieter. Im convinced that after 60k, if the ticking hasn't started, id take it apart and sand the manifolds with remflex and new hardware. Its way easier to do when the bolts aren't broken.

 

[Nick@GotExhaust]

In case anyone is interested AFE has come to the manifold game

Details​

• Outflows the factory exhaust manifolds by 15%, improving performance and throttle response
• Thicker walls for increased rigidity and crack resistance
• The machined ports match the factory gasket openings which maximizes exhaust flow
• Durable cast ductile iron construction
• Manifold mounting hardware is included for a hassle-free installation.

Machined Ports: These manifolds have both the inlet, and the outlet ports machined to match the factory gaskets. This allows for maximum flow, without compromising gasket performance.

Hassle-Free Installation: These manifolds bolt directly to the factory y-pipe for an easy installation.

Increased Wall Thickness: These manifolds have 25% Thicker walls than the crack-prone factory manifolds. The increase in thickness increases the rigidity of the manifolds and make them much more durable than the OE manifolds.

Emissions Disclaimer
This product is not currently CARB exempt and is not available for purchase in California or for use in any vehicle registered with the California Department of Motor Vehicles.


MSRP is currently $523.95, if anyone is interested in a set just send me a message.

 

[Brian2081]

Good Morning All, it's been awhile since I have had the need for help, but since I am here in the exhaust thread you know what has happened.
I am looking for recommendations for the manifold hardware, I stopped by my local dealer for a quote on the hardware and they had to call EMS for the heartattack they gave me, $500 for both sides. Yeah that's not going to happen.
So what brand of hardware did you use when doing this repair?

 

[danielmid]

Whatever hardware comes with the manifolds is typically fine, it's pretty low torque values on the manifolds.

 

[Brian2081]

Yeah, while I have this torn apart I want to replace all the bolts, nuts & studs with similar oem tinsel strength, just on the off chance that the manifolds warp again I don't want to pull the threads out of the heads by using a higher tinsel strength, I am milling the manifolds flat.

 

[Gero]

They won't warp again after you sand or mill it flat.

 

[ffeschjeff]

They won't warp again after you sand or mill it flat.

gotta do this exact thing on the driver side of mine...i did the passenger side a few months back.

 

[Daw14]

The hardware is only spec’d for twenty ft. Lbs.

 

[ffeschjeff]

I repaired my driver side this weekend and came across a hack for getting the manifold out.

Use the tire jack to lift the catalytic converter up "pay attention so you don't damage the transmission pan" and it will give you enough space to drop the manifold down between the frame and cat. worked like a charm for me.

 

[Cableman]

Just noticed my shield was off passenger manifold, yup 2 broken on that side from what i can see. Drivers side is still see them all in place and shield tight but who knows.
You guys replacing the heat shields also?
My 2016 has 47k miles.

 

[Bmags]

For my broken bolts I welded a nut on the end of the broken bolts and they came out easily. Hoping good luck with yours as well.

I put the heat shields back on because they weren't overly rotten yet. I'm sure the next time I have to do this I'll leave them off. I do tow a lot and worry a little about temps under the hood, but I'd still run it.

 

[Cableman]

For my broken bolts I welded a nut on the end of the broken bolts and they came out easily. Hoping good luck with yours as well.

I put the heat shields back on because they weren't overly rotten yet. I'm sure the next time I have to do this I'll leave them off. I do tow a lot and worry a little about temps under the hood, but I'd still run it.

I would need new ones, this one anyway rotted off and nothing to attach to at 3 locations.
Maybe ill be the guinea pig on those new afe’s

 

[Bmags]

I would need new ones, this one anyway rotted off and nothing to attach to at 3 locations.
Maybe ill be the guinea pig on those new afe’s

I’d really be curious how they hold up. They look nice.

 

[CamperMike]

I repaired my driver side this weekend and came across a hack for getting the manifold out.

Use the tire jack to lift the catalytic converter up "pay attention so you don't damage the transmission pan" and it will give you enough space to drop the manifold down between the frame and cat. worked like a charm for me.

I got mine out through there as well. But didn't need another jack to lift the converter. I just kinda pushed the manifold out thru that location and with a bit of persuasion it fit.

 

[PA Ram]

I got mine out through there as well. But didn't need another jack to lift the converter. I just kinda pushed the manifold out thru that location and with a bit of persuasion it fit.

Same

 

[Bmags]

I can't remember if it was said in this chat either, but there are a couple varients of stock manifolds. Earlier gens had an issue where they would break bolts and warp, the newer ones actually crack and need to be replaced. I have a 2019 Classic, and they cracked... my brothers were the same on his 2019 too. None of our bolts were broken.

I forget the year cutoff where that changed... there is also a "new" manifold that is supposed to fix the cracking issue now, he installed those and I installed the older style so we'll see how things hold up.

 

[PA Ram]

I can't remember if it was said in this chat either, but there are a couple varients of stock manifolds. Earlier gens had an issue where they would break bolts and warp, the newer ones actually crack and need to be replaced. I have a 2019 Classic, and they cracked... my brothers were the same on his 2019 too. None of our bolts were broken.

I forget the year cutoff where that changed... there is also a "new" manifold that is supposed to fix the cracking issue now, he installed those and I installed the older style so we'll see how things hold up.

The cutoff i believe is the 5th gen 18+. I have a 2017 and mine snapped bolts. I replaced with BD Diesel manifolds.

 

[CamperMike]

The cutoff i believe is the 5th gen 18+. I have a 2017 and mine snapped bolts. I replaced with BD Diesel manifolds.

2018 at least most of them are the old type. Mine did not have the bar and just broke the bolts.