Front Diff Gasket?

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Thundergun

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Hey Guys. Noob here.

Gonna change the front diff fluid tonight.

I bought a new gasket, but it looks like it doesn't have a gasket - just silicon sealant. Should i just use the silicon or the actual gasket i purchased? Hopefully the fasteners are long enough to use the actual gasket ..

Also, I gave it a shot once last week, but for the life of me couldn't get the diff cover off after the fasteners were removed. It was stuck like glue on there with the sealant. Any advice???

2007 1500 quad cab 4x4 45K. Shes a keeper. 75-90w synthetic valvoline
 

CKH

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Just use RTV. For diff covers, I have used the permatex high temp red, permatex gear oil RTV, and the Mopar stuff over the years and have never had an issue with any of them leaking. Just apply a bead of it, install the diff cover, finger tighten the bolts, allow it to cure for about an hour and then torque the bolts down.

Getting the diff cover off can take some effort if sealed with RTV already. Just get a flat blade screw driver and wedge it between the cover and the diff. You can tap the the end of the screw driver lightly with a hammer if you need to. Once you break the seal, it comes off fairly easy.
 
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JPT

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Leave a few loose bolts on it, and hit the cover with a hammer until it breaks loose. I personally like to use black RTV (silicone). But you will be fine with a gasket. A trick I like to use when using a gasket is to coat the gasket with grease on both sides. This will make it reuseable the next time.
 

JPT

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DO NOT USE A WEDGE BETWEEN THE COVER AND THE AXLE HOUSING. That is how you can be sure to eventually cause leaks. Just tap the housing near the bends with a hammer. The bends are strong, the mating surfaces are not.
 

CKH

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Diff covers aren't paper thin, at least none of the ones I have dealt with are. I've never bent a diff cover by using a screw driver to get it loose. I guess you could gouge the mating surface by using a wedge, but I've never had that issue either. Maybe it's my gentle touch though.
 

JPT

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Diff covers aren't paper thin, at least none of the ones I have dealt with are. I've never bent a diff cover by using a screw driver to get it loose. I guess you could gouge the mating surface by using a wedge, but I've never had that issue either. Maybe it's my gentle touch though.

I come from the off road world, and spent TONS of time doing axle work to it, including installing lunchbox lockers, replacing pins that sheered on the tails to installing ARB lockers.

If you wedge with wood, or plastic you will be perfectly fine. But people tend to use flathead screwdrivers, or cold chisels. Because the diff cover is flat on the mounting surface, that is the weakest part of the cover. When removing the factory RTV which is basically like concrete I have seen many lips bent.

A hammer on a bent part has never let me down. Tap away until it breaks loose.
 

NYCruiser

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Deep scratches in either mating surface won't help it seal any. Tap in a wood shim to separate if u must, not a steel tool.


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Thundergun

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Thanks everyone. Much appreciated!!

Does anyone have the torque on the bolts?
 

Thewetdream

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2E4A8BB7-5B39-4842-B548-F815D665B7AB.jpegThis has to be removed or no I’m thinking I won’t be able to seal it up correctlywith out it removed or loosened up
 

LoneWolf3574

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Old thread from 2014 folks, start a new one please. Thanks
 
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