General maintenance question

[Kodabear]

Hello all. First time to post on this forum and was hoping to get some thoughts, opinions, advice on some maintenance. I’m definitely not a gear head, which I mean in a very complimentary way, as I wish I were one.

I have a 2014 1500 quad Longhorn. Bought it brand new. First truck and love it. So I went to do my oil change at the dealership this morning as it was time. I currently have about 85,000 on it. This time while checking in I was told it was due for some other general maintenance. 3 things that were recommended at 60k, which I thought was odd how they didn’t mention it on my last change, but they said it was recommended at 60k to have front differential, rear differential and transfer case fluids changed. Each one was basically $150 each. Wasn’t expecting that while just doing an oil change. Then I was told at 100k it was time for a tuneup and A/F induction, not really sure what the second one is. The tuneup was about $420 and the other about $140. Was told the tuneup was so expensive because of all the plugs.


So the question is, how important are all of these and is the pricing about norm?

Appreciate your responses. Thanks.

 

[rule18]

Welcome to RamForum. IMO, that maintenance is necessary. I can't speak to the pricing, I haven't quite gotten to the 100k on my last three trucks. As for the diffs, when necessary I have done that work myself. Maybe other folks here have input on your pricing.

 

[tron67j]

Basic advice, follow the official maintenance schedule as listed in your manual, check online if you don't have it. Then you know if they are following factory guidance or just looking to make money. One way to know if they are following what you manual states is if they ask how you use it. Maintenance on some items is dependent on what you do with your truck, i.e. severe conditions such as heavy towing, majority of dirt road driving, etc. Good luck

 

[Burla]

All of those items should be changed, fluids in use build up acid and ruin metal as additives run low, true from everything even coolant. So add coolant and number one brake fluid to that list. But, good news I can save you 100's, don't use the dealer. Diff service is cheap even at oil stop, or a very easy dyi, as transfer case. If you can dyi, let me know. If you go to mom and pop cert mechanic you will save a boat load of cash. Dealers have tons of over head, who do you think pays for those super stores? Hemi tune ups are expensive yes, that isn't out of bounds. Induction service is likely cleaning throttle body, it gets dirty because it is right before combustion chamber and also handles pcv gas/oil.

8 speed or 6 speed trans?

 

[Kodabear]

Mine is an 8 speed. Had the hard shifting issues for about 6-8 months before they finally got a fix and now it’s very smooth.

I guess I would attempt to change those out with some guidance. Like I said, I’m not a mechanic or gear head. I’ve changed my own oil a time or two, replaced batteries and even have replaced an alternator or two. But I don’t work on my own brakes. I guess I could look at some YouTubes and see what say?

 

[Burla]

Mine is an 8 speed. Had the hard shifting issues for about 6-8 months before they finally got a fix and now it’s very smooth.

I guess I would attempt to change those out with some guidance. Like I said, I’m not a mechanic or gear head. I’ve changed my own oil a time or two, replaced batteries and even have replaced an alternator or two. But I don’t work on my own brakes. I guess I could look at some YouTubes and see what say?

Cool, many items you cant fail at. List me the items you feel comfortable attempting. Because of abs, eventhough brake flush is fairly simply, I might opt for the 140 it usually costs to do that item unless you feel like removing 4 tires, which also should be rotated. So list me what you want to dyi. Find out the charge on throttle body cleaning from a mom and pop to decide if you want to do that one. I'd get the charge for spark plugs from mom and pop as well, changing spark plugs the correct way isn't as easy as it sounds, again what are you comfortable with attempting.

Front Diff
Rear Diff
Transfer Case
Do you want to attempt brakes and tire rotation?

You can't mess up diffs, let's not pop the cover, but look down there and verify on both diffs, there is two plugs above each other on both diffs?

Transfer case, you have to be careful with this, if you tighten bolt too tight the case will crack. You always take off the fill bolt first, top not. Never use a drill for any of these items, always go correct direction, lefty loosy. You need to choose the correct slippery pete pump, if you buy quarts then choose quarts for all items, it is 3 different fluids. If you want gallons choose gallon pump. If you use amsoil bags you don't need a pump, but any other fluid you will need a pump.

 

[Zoe Saldana]

Hello all. First time to post on this forum and was hoping to get some thoughts, opinions, advice on some maintenance. I’m definitely not a gear head, which I mean in a very complimentary way, as I wish I were one.

I have a 2014 1500 quad Longhorn. Bought it brand new. First truck and love it. So I went to do my oil change at the dealership this morning as it was time. I currently have about 85,000 on it. This time while checking in I was told it was due for some other general maintenance. 3 things that were recommended at 60k, which I thought was odd how they didn’t mention it on my last change, but they said it was recommended at 60k to have front differential, rear differential and transfer case fluids changed. Each one was basically $150 each. Wasn’t expecting that while just doing an oil change. Then I was told at 100k it was time for a tuneup and A/F induction, not really sure what the second one is. The tuneup was about $420 and the other about $140. Was told the tuneup was so expensive because of all the plugs.


So the question is, how important are all of these and is the pricing about norm?

Appreciate your responses. Thanks.

front differential, rear differential and transfer case fluids changed - should be done - you can do it very easy

tuneup - yes - you can do it

Also, you should:
Change brake fluid - go to pepboys
Change power steering fluid - pepboys
Change air filter
Change cabin air filter

A/F induction - what is this?

 

[PoMansRam]

Koda, just to ad to the above advice, if you plan on driving your 2014 forever, the diffs, transfer case fluids and most importantly, the transmission fluid and pan should be changed at this age and mileage.

The magical unicorn tears mopar transfer case fluid is expensive dealer or mail-order only if you want to stick with OEM fluid.

For your 8hp45 ZF8 transmission, you can source a mail-order pan kit for as little as $30 and use ~$30 worth of Valvoline Maxlife ATF, or you can pay a dealer $400-1000 to do it, if they'll even do it for you.

There's really not much you have to do to the pentastar aside from maybe a spark plug change, which will require removal of the intake manifold. You may as well wait until the oil filter housing starts leaking and do the spark plugs then given the IM has to come off for the oil filter housing replacement. That housing WILL leak on you at some point and need to be replaced.

If you haven't used your parking brake, it's probably not going to work for you. If you notice P-brake cable sag, the mechanical bits for the P-brake are already rusted solid. If all still works, another important maintenance item on all Ram 1500s is to clean and lube the parking brake mechanisms that actuate the P-brake shoes. You have to remove the rear rotors to get at it all.

 

[Burla]

Coolant Flush, more complicated then maybe anything on the list, there are two block bolts, one near impossible to get off on drivers side. You need to drain heater core and burp the system and now about top not and rad petock. To do a 100% flush you need to get it all out, and that is no easy task for anyone, even pro's.

So what many people do, like myself, is rather then flush the system, flush the radiator and drive a bit and repeat a couple times. This is easy, number one make sure overflow is always full line with 50/50 mix, never use anything but either pre mixed coolant, or reg strength coolant and distilled water 50/50. This saves you money, but you need to remember to pre mix in two gallon jugs before you start, you don't mix it in the radiator, because it might fill up before you can get equal amounts in.

So rad petcock can break, they are cheap flimsy things, it is better imo to take a line off the bottom of radiator, then it gets simple. You take off radiator cap, and take off a bottom line where ever is easy, and let drain. You don't have to worry about t stat being closed or burping or anything. Let drain for a good while, put line back on, and fill slowly, let sit when full, maybe level will go down, if so fill again.

As long as over flow tank is full, that is all you need to concern yourself with this kind of flush. Mind you this not perfect, you mix old with new, but nobody really has a perfect method for this, unless someone else has any ideas?

Don't use dex cool eventhough that is what chart says, yours is a dex clone, but not the same. Just use oem fca 10 year coolant, and choose pre mix or full strength.

 

[Burla]

I didnt even see the v6, yes spark plugs should be cheaper, try and mom and pop. And the above is for a hemi cooling system, I don't know about the v6, my bad.

 

[indept]

The tuneup was about $420 and the other about $140. Was told the tuneup was so expensive because of all the plugs.

The V6 only has 6 plugs, did they quote the hemi price which has 16 plugs?

 

[Flame Red Rebel]

Plugs are a ***** to change if U do not have lots of special sockets, extensions.

In saying that, did my 2013 ram in 1 hour in the street. (first time)

Plug set was under $100 for FACTORY brand. (from moe's)

My BMW has a SPECIAL spark plug socket, kid U not........

Engineers suck when I comes to DIY folks.


front diff and T case are ones to watch close compareded to the rear.

Rear stays WAY cooler then the front as its a small pumking and TUBES to cool fluid.

T case hold little fluid, so and small leak and U risk burning up to lack of fluid.

A huge problem in the montana to N Dakota runs at the shop i wrenched at.......

T case no like 90 MPH runs for hours.................ROFL

 

[Burla]

From your owners manual.

Transfer Case We recommend you use MOPAR® BW44–44

Front Axle – 1500 Four-Wheel Drive Models We recommend you use MOPAR® GL-5 Synthetic Axle Lubricant SAE 75W-85.

Rear Axle – 1500 Models We recommend you use MOPAR® Synthetic Gear Lubricant SAE 75W-140 (MS-8985). Limited-Slip Rear Axles require the addition of 5 oz. (148 ml) MOPAR® Limited Slip Additive (MS-10111).

So what I use for example, would be this, for your axles you want general use fluids, which means additive is already in there, you want this for both diffs, it is what they spec. You wont need modifier if you use the oils listed above. And if you buy something else let me know, I will explain the procedure if you need modifier.

75W85 GL-5 GEAR OIL

75w140

Notice how neither has the "NS" in title, you do not want the NS gear fluids.

Transfer case, you decide if you want unicorn ****, we have guys that run redline c+ or amsoil art4 replacement, and swear by it. Much cheaper then specialized oem fluid.

Dot 3 and 4 brake fluid is interchangeable. Redline 600 is expensive fluid, but is will last a long time if you don't do brake fluid flushes often. Or get any otc dot 4 fluid and change it more often.

 

[Burla]

How is this for a tough dyi? You drive a while maybe 5 ten minutes, and park. Take off top rubber garmet, and then bottom one over a pan and let fluid drain. Put bottom plug back, and fill with a pump until fluid starts coming out top hole, stop pumping and put back rubber plug. Repeat on other diff. Just make sure you put the right weight in the right diff, you just saved yourself 200 bucks. Cant mess this up. Look for metal flakes, if you have metal flakes you may opt for a cover pop and clean out.

 

[Burla]

Brake Master Cylinder We recommend you use MOPAR® DOT 3. If DOT 3 brake fluid is not available, then DOT 4 is acceptable.

So I have no idea why fca wants dot 3 first, it is inferior to dot 4 in everyway. But this is up to you as well.

 

[Kodabear]

So I guess one other little minor thing, if I was to do the fluids myself, I don’t even know where those are at to drain and fill.

 

[Kodabear]

How is this for a tough dyi? You drive a while maybe 5 ten minutes, and park. Take off top rubber garmet, and then bottom one over a pan and let fluid drain. Put bottom plug back, and fill with a pump until fluid starts coming out top hole, stop pumping and put back rubber plug. Repeat on other diff. Just make sure you put the right weight in the right diff, you just saved yourself 200 bucks. Cant mess this up. Look for metal flakes, if you have metal flakes you may opt for a cover pop and clean out.

Use a pump? Put in the right weight? Like I said, I’m not a mechanic of any kind and those two things have me lost before I begin. Sorry, but you’re dealing with a very green, novice and just flat pretty clueless with probably most things that relate to auto repair.

 

[Burla]

So I guess one other little minor thing, if I was to do the fluids myself, I don’t even know where those are at to drain and fill.

under the truck, look at the cover of diffs and you will see transfer case there, just watch the beginning of this video, change transfer case w/o a torque wrench.

 

[kurek]

If you're in 2wd most of the time, the transfer case and the front diff undergo very little wear and generate almost no heat (the lower half of the transfer case and the front driveshaft + front ring and pinion aren't moving) so I wouldn't put any priority on changing the fluid before 100k miles unless the owners' manual recommends it before then.

I'd do the transmission at 60k though, even if the manufacturer says lifetime that's more prophecy than prudence.

Earlier this year I bought a little Jeep commuter with "lifetime" trans fluid... changed that ASAP (103k miles, as purchased) and it was definitely already full of suspended abrasive bits easily visible both in the fluid and precipitated to the bottom of the drain pan.

 

[Burla]

Use a pump? Put in the right weight? Like I said, I’m not a mechanic of any kind and those two things have me lost before I begin. Sorry, but you’re dealing with a very green, novice and just flat pretty clueless with probably most things that relate to auto repair.

so 75w140 gear fluid goes in rear diff.

75w85 in the front, the two I posted had links.

So look up slippery pete pump, if you order qrts get a qrt pump, if you order gallons get a gallon pump like this. \\