Homelink

[GTyankee]

The last time that i ran that old generator, i had not even heard of Bio-diesel.

I just shut off the fuel valve & ran it until the supply line was dry

I would not be at all surprised if the fuel lines & all the gaskets were rotted out.

The carburetor cost more than the whole generator to have it rebuilt, i think it is a Yamaha brand carburetor.
I bought the Generator over 24 years ago from a Sears outlet store ....................

Now it is buried in a closet
the only thing that is buried further back in, is a Rebuilt 327 Cu. In. engine & a Muncie M 21 transmission with a broken mounting ear

 

[RamDiver]

The last time that i ran that old generator, i had not even heard of Bio-diesel.

I just shut off the fuel valve & ran it until the supply line was dry

I would not be at all surprised if the fuel lines & all the gaskets were rotted out.

The carburetor cost more than the whole generator to have it rebuilt, i think it is a Yamaha brand carburetor.
I bought the Generator over 24 years ago from a Sears outlet store ....................

Now it is buried in a closet
the only thing that is buried further back in, is a Rebuilt 327 Cu. In. engine & a Muncie M 21 transmission with a broken mounting ear

Hopefully, you were using pure gasoline and not corn gas and the Sea Foam tuneup might still be sufficient.

Otherwise, you may have to tear down the carburetor and clean up the valve assemblies.

Draining the float bowl may have saved you that pleasure.

If the gaskets are toast and you're not looking for a project, you might want to buy a new generator and/or send this one out for a quote. The labour costs up here would likely make it junk unless it's a fancy Honda.

I live in a rural area, the hydro reliability is pretty low. It's only been off once this year but the second last outage was 44 hours.

.

 

[SitKneelBend]

Drain and flush it and refill it with fresh gas and Sea Foam. And once you get it running again, try to run it for at least 15 or 20 minutes on a monthly basis.

I put fuel stabilizer in my gerry cans before filling them and never have issues with fouled gas in any small motors.

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I run my gas powered stuff dry, then fill it with a little Seafoam and start it again so it's running on Seafoam then cut it off. This has worked great for me for years resulting in first try startups after every winter.

 

[David Roark]

I have a 2014 1500 Tradesman, and have done many upgrades to the interior, and a few to the exterior. I have added Homelink to my overhead Console, but can't seem to get it to work. Can anyone tell me if it is possible to program it to work using Alpha Obd?
I might add that I have navigation installed, and just replaced the compass with the homelink with compass. Everything is working except the homelink buttons.

I have 2020 with it as standard and mine does not work but about 20% of time. Home is worthless. Same problem with Ford as well.

 

[RamDiver]

I have 2020 with it as standard and mine does not work but about 20% of time. Home is worthless. Same problem with Ford as well.

Other than the programming aspect of Homelink not being remotely intuitive, I've had no grief with the 3-button version in my truck since day 1, since January '22.

I have 3 doors that I open regularly without any grief.

Once or twice during very cold weather, the transmit function seemed to have 'locked on' but after seeing the extended 'channel 1 transmit' indicator on the EVIC, 1 tap and it cleared.

.

 

[ricky_bobby]

My Homelink is spotty and I blame it on the Genie opener - occasionally the keypad on the outside doesnt open the door (lights just flash) even though the right code is entered and you have to input it 2-3 times to open

Sometimes I have to stand in the driver pressing the Homelink button 5-6 times before my door opens, sometimes its on first press

I have been meaning to reprogram it fresh, to see if that helps. Key is you have to use the remote opener in the programming sequence which I did almost 6 years ago, and it still happens.

 

[RamDiver]

My Homelink is spotty and I blame it on the Genie opener - occasionally the keypad on the outside doesnt open the door (lights just flash) even though the right code is entered and you have to input it 2-3 times to open

Sometimes I have to stand in the driver pressing the Homelink button 5-6 times before my door opens, sometimes its on first press

I have been meaning to reprogram it fresh, to see if that helps. Key is you have to use the remote opener in the programming sequence which I did almost 6 years ago, and it still happens.

It sounds like your opener may have a reception sensitivity problem.

Is the antenna attachment point OK and is the line of sight to the antenna clear?


IIRC, I didn't bother using the remote the last time I programmed one of my doors.

I should say, reprogram the door because the opener went a bit nuts.

Homelink

homelink.com

They list a Genie opener-specific video for training the Ram Homelink buttons.

 

[SitKneelBend]

My Homelink is spotty and I blame it on the Genie opener - occasionally the keypad on the outside doesnt open the door (lights just flash) even though the right code is entered and you have to input it 2-3 times to open

Sometimes I have to stand in the driver pressing the Homelink button 5-6 times before my door opens, sometimes its on first press

I have been meaning to reprogram it fresh, to see if that helps. Key is you have to use the remote opener in the programming sequence which I did almost 6 years ago, and it still happens.

Mine does this when the truck has been in direct sunlight for an hour or so on a hot day.

 

[ricky_bobby]

It sounds like your opener may have a reception sensitivity problem.

Is the antenna attachment point OK and is the line of sight to the antenna clear?


IIRC, I didn't bother using the remote the last time I programmed one of my doors.

I should say, reprogram the door because the opener went a bit nuts.

Homelink

homelink.com

They list a Genie opener-specific video for training the Ram Homelink buttons.

I'll watch it but I think I used that specific video for it - if my keypad on the side of the door on the outside of the garage didn't do the same thing (literally took me 6 times yesterday to close it with keypad, when washing the wifes car) then I would think it was the truck etc -

Opener is 7-8 years old at this point so maybe its time for a new one or an adjustment if there is one to the sensitivity mentioning

Truck sits in the garage so not to do with sitting outside- line of sight is good on the antenna and the truck itself

Wifes 2013 BMW Homelink is about 99% reliable, never an issue with hers

 

[Dean2]

One car works perfect, other car doesn't. Highly unlikely it is the door opener. Clear all codes on vehicle, re-program from scratch.

As to the outside opener, those are hard wired so that is likely a different issue. Check the batteries, check sensor alignment on the safety, check opening and closing safety limits.

 

[Ram Night]

I have never had a problem with the home link on the Genie openers, but the liftmaster opener is hit and miss. Some days it will work great and other days it will not.

 

[SitKneelBend]

I'll watch it but I think I used that specific video for it - if my keypad on the side of the door on the outside of the garage didn't do the same thing (literally took me 6 times yesterday to close it with keypad, when washing the wifes car) then I would think it was the truck etc -

Opener is 7-8 years old at this point so maybe its time for a new one or an adjustment if there is one to the sensitivity mentioning

Truck sits in the garage so not to do with sitting outside- line of sight is good on the antenna and the truck itself

Wifes 2013 BMW Homelink is about 99% reliable, never an issue with hers

Also, EMI can cause this issue. If you are using LED bulbs in the opener it can cause radio interference. I've personally tested this and found it to be true for my opener but certain LEDs do work...

 

[GTyankee]

the cheaper LED bulbs in the garage, can interfere with the Homelink

 

[RamDiver]

One car works perfect, other car doesn't. Highly unlikely it is the door opener. Clear all codes on vehicle, re-program from scratch.

Agreed, the wife's vehicle working 99% is new info, if I'm not mistaken.

As to the outside opener, those are hard wired so that is likely a different issue. Check the batteries, check sensor alignment on the safety, check opening and closing safety limits.

I have a remote pushbutton on 1 of my doors and it's the same as a remote, no hardwire connection. It's on 1 of the Sears openers.

The performance of the pushbutton remote gets flakey when the 9 volt battery requires replacement.

IIRC, 2 of my doors use old Sears openers (about 19 years old), made by Chamberlain.
And a 3rd Chamberlain brand that's about 14 years old.

The Sears openers sometimes have psychotic episodes and require a reset, and the Chamberlain name branded only screwed up once after an extended power outage.

I have LED bulbs in all 3 openers.

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[ricky_bobby]

Hmmm - thanks for all the brainstorming - I have had an LED bulb in the overhead opener since we moved in, which was before I owned the truck - I imagine that in the past 7+ years the LED bulb technology has gotten much better, so maybe I will test by taking that bulb out in the opener and see if it helps with the keypad and more consistent operation in the truck - yes I would say my wifes works 98-99% first push in her 2013 BMW

I also may put a fresh battery in the remote opener and try reprogramming mine - I know that when first programmed I did not put a fresh battery in (it was only about 2 years old at that point)

 

[SitKneelBend]

Hmmm - thanks for all the brainstorming - I have had an LED bulb in the overhead opener since we moved in, which was before I owned the truck - I imagine that in the past 7+ years the LED bulb technology has gotten much better, so maybe I will test by taking that bulb out in the opener and see if it helps with the keypad and more consistent operation in the truck - yes I would say my wifes works 98-99% first push in her 2013 BMW

I also may put a fresh battery in the remote opener and try reprogramming mine - I know that when first programmed I did not put a fresh battery in (it was only about 2 years old at that point)

To be clear, it was only my Ram's Homelink that had issues with LED. The OEM garage remotes and my wife's Pacifica have no issues when LEDs are installed and the bug light LEDs I have in now have no effect on my Ram.

 

[RamDiver]

Hmmm - thanks for all the brainstorming - I have had an LED bulb in the overhead opener since we moved in, which was before I owned the truck - I imagine that in the past 7+ years the LED bulb technology has gotten much better, so maybe I will test by taking that bulb out in the opener and see if it helps with the keypad and more consistent operation in the truck - yes I would say my wifes works 98-99% first push in her 2013 BMW

I also may put a fresh battery in the remote opener and try reprogramming mine - I know that when first programmed I did not put a fresh battery in (it was only about 2 years old at that point)

My remote opener battery requires a recharge about every 6 months.

It is a Lithium battery that doesn't appreciate the winter temperatures here. When I use an Alkaline battery, it lasts about 1-1.5 years maximum.

Is your remote wired or wireless, like mine? The wireless variety likely eat batteries faster.

Regardless, 2 years is a long time to expect a tiny battery to last outdoors; if the device misbehaves, a battery replacement would be the first step in fault diagnosis.

.

 

[ricky_bobby]

To be clear, it was only my Ram's Homelink that had issues with LED. The OEM garage remotes and my wife's Pacifica have no issues when LEDs are installed and the bug light LEDs I have in now have no effect on my Ram.

I'll take out the LED in there now and test it later to see with the Ram if it makes any difference and report back -

 

[ricky_bobby]

When you get a chance - let me know which LED bulbs you put in that don't affect the Ram? I assume trying something like a high CRI bulb which has a bit better construction than the bulk specials may work well

NVM I see that Genie sells one and Feit Electric makes a garage door opener specific bulb - may try one of those -

 

[ricky_bobby]

Well @SitKneelBend - you are the winner - I took out the TCP LED bulb in the opener that I put in about 7 years ago and as soon as I did I barely had to press Homelink and the door was opening, from inside the truck

I did order the Genie bulbs on Amazon should be here tomorrow, as well as the Genie plug-in surge protector (for $13 can't hurt) for the ceiling plug in point

This will end nearly 6 years of frustrating Homelink on my Ram I hope!