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Can you think of a way to tap into the wire without it permanently damaging the wiring? I hate to splice but my Dad only has the 5" radio and auxillary switches and doesn't want to spend the extra money to get his heat and AC working and he's fine with tapping into the wires.
I guess you could just cut the insulation off of the seat harness wires and then solder the power and ground wires to them without actually cutting them or you could de pin the wires from the connector and then attach the power and the ground to them somehow that way. I guess if he doesn't care about the wiring and just wants to splice into them then just do the best you can to make it a clean install.
Is this ride wire the one I need to tap into on the driver seat? I seen that someone on an old forum said that when he just tapped into one wire it did not power the lumber as well
Yes you tap into the solid red wire which is slot#1 and solid black wire which is slot#14. Who ever posted that was incorrect. It should power everything.Is this ride wire the one I need to tap into on the driver seat? I seen that someone on an old forum said that when he just tapped into one wire it did not power the lumber as well
17' CCSB 4X4 68RFE 2500 6.7 Tradesman DRP EGR delete, CTT tuning w/TCM tuning, UAQ w/7 speed HVAC, 7" premium EVIC, OEM front Parksense, OEM style front camera, aux switches, OEM remote start
Ok power on both passenger and driver seats are working correctly and all seems to be fine. We never ran a ground wire and everything is working do we still need to ground?
The seats are grounded to the truck via the brackets that are boted up the cab but I always run a dedicated ground to the connector. All that being said it's up to you. Either way is fine. If they are working they have a good ground. Most important thing is to make sure the power wire has a fused link.
Okay thanks man I really appreciate all your help! He did install a 30 amp in line fuse as you suggested.
You had an Express that had all the correct wiring? If so I've never seen one that did including my 14 Express and I've done a quite a few of these. All the trucks I have seen had to be a Bighorn or higher trim level in order to have the wiring. I haven't done an 18 Express yet so I suppose it's possible that certain 18 Expresses could be equipped higher which is good to know. Congratulations on your upgrade. It's definitely a nice feature to have.
Oh I'm sorry I just noticed your truck is a Regular Cab. I should have looked at your profile pic! All the Regular Cab trucks come standard with the premium harness because they build so few of them which is nice. The Quad Cab and Crew Cab Express and Tradesman trucks have the basic harness. I did see some 2019 Classic Quad and Crew Cab Express trucks with the 8.4 radio when I was looking at 2500's the other day so I'm thinking there could be a possibility some of them could come with the upgraded seat harnesses. They were all locked so I couldn't actually open the door and check.
It seems like your issue is most likely that you aren't connected to the CAN system and that's why you cannot communicate with your seat module. I have also seen some instances where the wrecking yards have removed the heated seat module before selling the seats so verify it's still mounted under the seat to make sure that's not your issue. When 00/RT and I originally figured all this out I wasn't sure it was all going to work so I just ran the wiring the way I described in my post. It all worked fine but Deerguy actually developed a completely plug and play harness that is far better than the way I originally ran my harness. I have since fully converted my truck over to his harness. I strongly reccomend buying the heated/vented seat conversion harness from M2mods who is in the vendor section on the forum. It is run by Mpgrimm2 and Deerguy and they do beautiful work. The harness will look factory and attach to the factory PDC (fuse Box). To answer your actual question you most likely have an issue with your harness or your codes. I'm thinking there is a better chance it's your harness than the codes since you cannot connect to the heated seat module. Verify that you have the two CAN connector wires from pin#12 and 13 of the grey driver's seat connector to the CAN connected properly. This is what connects the module to the truck. Double check that you have all of the correct codes enabled in the BCM by referring to the first post of the alfa thread under the known working codes list. Your truck would definitely be the first Bighorn I have seen without the correct wiring from the factory.
You must have been using some type of bypass harness to enable the codes, correct? The alfa tool shouldn't be able to connect to the truck to enable the codes without one. It would appear that whatever security bypass harness you were using worked because the tool was able to connect to the truck to enable the controls to come up on the screen. Once the codes are enabled the security bypass harness is no longer needed. One thing I did notice in your picture was that your heated seat soft keys were much larger on the screen than your vented soft keys. When I had my UAS/UAQ radio in my truck which is what you have my keys were the same size. Doubt that it makes any difference but thought I would mention it. It may be because you don't have the heated wheel enabled so the soft keys are configured differently. The fact that you cannot connect to the HSM module is what makes me believe you could have an issue with the CAN connection or the wiring that you installed. The fact that the buttons don't turn on at all could be related to that but I have never tried pushing the switch panel buttons without being connected to the CAN so I can't say for sure. I do know in many cases when people have done this mod and the wiring is correct but all of the codes are not entered correctly the buttons will usually turn on for a few seconds and then turn off. Another thing to note is the 2013 trucks take a different switch panel but they look identical to the 2014 to 2018. To verify your switch panel is correct just use the other buttons like the tow/haul ect. If they work your switch panel should be the correct one. You could also have a problem with not getting power to the two pink wires with yellow stripe when the truck is on (ignition on run). It's obviously hard to trouble shoot when I can't physically see the harness you installed but if I had to bet I would say that's the first place you should troubleshoot. I would double check that all the correct codes are enabled with the tool and verify you HSM module is still attached to the seat and all the connectors that run to it are attached because that won't take long to do and then focus on the harness from there.
Good luck. Let me know if you find anything out or have any questions. I will try to answer them if I can.
