How to add remote start to 2017 Ram

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mike19950

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Do you think those will actually ship immediately? I guess I misunderstood since it says It says 'Automotive Connectors NOT AVAILABLE THROUGH MOUSER'. I'll order a few and see what happens. Thanks
I've got them on the way. They shipped fast. The USPS is the only hangup I've had. They got to the local post office but instead of coming to me they sent them up to Rhode Island. Waiting for them to get sent back down to me. ‍
 
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sscamaro1968

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is anyone able to make and sell me a harness from the hood latch to the connector under the fuse box..
 

kad

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is anyone able to make and sell me a harness from the hood latch to the connector under the fuse box..
M2Mods here on the forum makes them. He's on vacation until early January though. (The 6th, I think, but don't quote me)

-K
 

Matt Franklin

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is anyone able to make and sell me a harness from the hood latch to the connector under the fuse box..
If you don’t have that, I’m guessing you also don’t have an RF hub capable of adding remote start, you might be best off buying one of the Mopar kits with the hood latch, the harness all the way to the BCM, the RF hub, and 2 remotes. Just a thought.
 

kad

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If you don’t have that, I’m guessing you also don’t have an RF hub capable of adding remote start, you might be best off buying one of the Mopar kits with the hood latch, the harness all the way to the BCM, the RF hub, and 2 remotes. Just a thought.
Actually, it's been discovered that all '14+ RF hubs have the ability, just need the hood latch, harness and new rubber skins for the existing keyfobs. You don't get quite as much range due to the lack of the extra antenna, that's all. It's all detailed further up in this thread.

-K
 

sscamaro1968

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i have the wire from under the fuse box to the BCM. i just dont have the hood latch wires. if i dont come up with something, ill get ahold of M2mods next week and see if he can do anything. Mike supplied all the stuff for my 8.4 swap..
 

Yani13

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If you don't care about the hood...
All you need to do is add a pin into number 11 and ground it to a bolt, I use the bolt that is beside the parking brake pedal you need about 16 in of wire..
Then, change your fob cases so they have the remote start button.
Use Alfa to set codes, reset RF hub.. drive the truck above 10kph and done.
I can add remote start to any 13 plus 4th gen in about 10 minutes flat start to finish.
And I have done over 35 trucks now every engine except for 6.4.. they all work the same.
And you can do it all for a boat 20 bucks in parts

Sent from my SM-G965W using Tapatalk
I have a 2021 1500 I got the latch and key fob from the dealer I installed. Had the dealer enable my remote start and it did t work. Now they want to charge me 2hr labor to see why it doesn’t work. And suggestion?
 

Matt Franklin

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When I did this job, I plugged the wire from the hood latch into the wrong pin under the dash. It would be worth double-checking that before you pay the dealership for their labor.

Do you have any messages in the evic when you try the remote? Maybe something about the hood being open?
 

rchm1987

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If you don't care about the hood...
All you need to do is add a pin into number 11 and ground it to a bolt, I use the bolt that is beside the parking brake pedal you need about 16 in of wire..
Then, change your fob cases so they have the remote start button.
Use Alfa to set codes, reset RF hub.. drive the truck above 10kph and done.
I can add remote start to any 13 plus 4th gen in about 10 minutes flat start to finish.
And I have done over 35 trucks now every engine except for 6.4.. they all work the same.
And you can do it all for a boat 20 bucks in parts

Sent from my SM-G965W using Tapatalk
Dumb question why not the 6.4?
 

SitKneelBend

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Does Anyone know why I would be reading hood ajar and 0.00v when I have grounded C1/A Pin 11?

1727631279284.jpeg
 

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SitKneelBend

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Does Anyone know why I would be reading hood ajar and 0.00v when I have grounded C1/A Pin 11?

View attachment 551922
Corrected my problem and just wanted to post in case anyone else had a hood ajar warning after only grounding pin 11 and not doing the full wiring. It appears after setting this the BCM wants to see a voltage change on the ground or else it just sets it to hood ajar. After disconnecting pin 11 from ground the voltage went from 0.00v to 2.76v. I still received the hood ajar warning but the reading said the hood was closed. I then set it back to 500/500 and the truck successfully remote starts.
 

RNich

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Let me preface this by saying all trucks are different. Some have the harness installed all the way to the BCM while many don't. (SOME HAVE THE CONNECTOR AND IT NEVER COMPLETES THE CIRCUIT. You need to tone all the way through to ensure. If it does not make it all the way through it is almost impossible to find where it stops as the harness is wrapped pretty tight.


68159725AB (1500) Hood latch with switch
68065018AA (1500) Repair Kit with connector

https://www.mouser.com/Product...29-13627884-L?r=829-13627884-L (BCM PIN)

18 gauge primary wire from autozone
Grounding terminal from autozone
Heat Shrink

Amazon or Ebay

Replacement tip start overlays (4 Button)
OR
Replacement Keyfobs (4 Button)

The above cost around $60.00

A kit from MOPAR cost about $230 to $320

Programming from the dealer ranges $80.00 to $120.00 in my area

The following can be used for other installs
Crimper for BCM terminal

The following can be used to program and forego dealer programming. (DEPENDS ON LEVEL OF ABILITY AND COMFORT LEVEL)

MX ODB Adapter (for programming) $70.00
Amazon

ALPHA Software (for programming) $50.00
Google Play Store / Windows Store (require android or windows device)

Instructions.
https://www.mopar.com/moparsvc/pim/media?id=9012385939486

Hope this helps

Joe

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I cannot find the P11 pin connector anywhere. I ordered yazaki 1.5 terminal. It’s not right. Any suggestions?
Let me preface this by saying all trucks are different. Some have the harness installed all the way to the BCM while many don't. (SOME HAVE THE CONNECTOR AND IT NEVER COMPLETES THE CIRCUIT. You need to tone all the way through to ensure. If it does not make it all the way through it is almost impossible to find where it stops as the harness is wrapped pretty tight.


68159725AB (1500) Hood latch with switch
68065018AA (1500) Repair Kit with connector

https://www.mouser.com/Product...29-13627884-L?r=829-13627884-L (BCM PIN)

18 gauge primary wire from autozone
Grounding terminal from autozone
Heat Shrink

Amazon or Ebay

Replacement tip start overlays (4 Button)
OR
Replacement Keyfobs (4 Button)

The above cost around $60.00

A kit from MOPAR cost about $230 to $320

Programming from the dealer ranges $80.00 to $120.00 in my area

The following can be used for other installs
Crimper for BCM terminal

The following can be used to program and forego dealer programming. (DEPENDS ON LEVEL OF ABILITY AND COMFORT LEVEL)

MX ODB Adapter (for programming) $70.00
Amazon

ALPHA Software (for programming) $50.00
Google Play Store / Windows Store (require android or windows device)

Instructions.
https://www.mopar.com/moparsvc/pim/media?id=9012385939486

Hope this helps

Joe

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
Checked the link for the pin connector. Can not find the proper size anywhere. I ordered yazaki 1.5 terminal. Does not fit. I would order an already put together wire or just the connector pin. Any suggestions?
 

SitKneelBend

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I cannot find the P11 pin connector anywhere. I ordered yazaki 1.5 terminal. It’s not right. Any suggestions?

Checked the link for the pin connector. Can not find the proper size anywhere. I ordered yazaki 1.5 terminal. Does not fit. I would order an already put together wire or just the connector pin. Any suggestions?
@Jimmy07 posted the correct pin which is:


Source: https://www.ramforum.com/threads/how-to-add-remote-start-to-2017-ram.99849/post-2364834
 

RNich

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Grounded the Door ajar pin11 to one of the nuts next to the brake. Followed the steps. Kept Ohms at 500. Reset the Radio Frequency Module w/ my pin. Drove it for 10 minutes. Works. Factory electric start for the price of this:

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/KOSTAL/32124734123000-L?qs=W0yvOO0ixfFjDQ0rJ%2BHBUw==

If you are using this link the available similar connector mouser offers works fine. Just have to snip off the tail end of it so it fits. Can cut it right where the first crimp ends.

I had to disconnect the other plugs that were connected to the BCM so I could access pin11. Its a bear if you try to do it with the others still connected. The plugs meet in the middle and that can be detached as well. Plugs right back up and so does the clip in the middle. Only had to detach the top plugs for better access. Thank you for the info everyone!
 

SitKneelBend

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Grounded the Door ajar pin11 to one of the nuts next to the brake. Followed the steps. Kept Ohms at 500. Reset the Radio Frequency Module w/ my pin. Drove it for 10 minutes. Works. Factory electric start for the price of this:

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/KOSTAL/32124734123000-L?qs=W0yvOO0ixfFjDQ0rJ%2BHBUw==

If you are using this link the available similar connector mouser offers works fine. Just have to snip off the tail end of it so it fits. Can cut it right where the first crimp ends.

I had to disconnect the other plugs that were connected to the BCM so I could access pin11. Its a bear if you try to do it with the others still connected. The plugs meet in the middle and that can be detached as well. Plugs right back up and so does the clip in the middle. Only had to detach the top plugs for better access. Thank you for the info everyone!
You think that's hard, try getting the BCM out!
 

SitKneelBend

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Just unplugging it is a pain!
No joke, I need to make a thread on my insights when swapping BCMs. Boosted Motor Sports did a video on it with him removing it one handed while recording making it look like a breeze. This was not my experience and the replacement was installed with 3 of the 4 bolts.
 

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