How to Fluid Film your truck

[chrisbh17]

Where can you get Corrosion Free online? The closest dealer to me is 75 miles away...

Right on their website:

https://corrosionfree.com/store/

BUT!

I would also look at NH Oil Undercoating:

https://nhoilundercoating.com/

I have a sneaking suspicion it is just Corrosion Free Rust Cure re-labelled for sale in the US. Free shipping and its basically the same price per gallon as Fluid Film.

 

[Jared26]

I did mine last year just with the spray cans (first winter for the truck) and I really need to get under there and do mine again pretty quick but I want to use the gallons and a sprayer but I can't find the gallons up here in Canada.

 

[Hemi395]

I did mine last year just with the spray cans (first winter for the truck) and I really need to get under there and do mine again pretty quick but I want to use the gallons and a sprayer but I can't find the gallons up here in Canada.

Does Amazon ship to Canada?

 

[chrisbh17]

I did mine last year just with the spray cans (first winter for the truck) and I really need to get under there and do mine again pretty quick but I want to use the gallons and a sprayer but I can't find the gallons up here in Canada.

Checkout Corrosion Free. They are in Canada and have a dealer network (but not being in Canada I dont know if they are dealers of the product or if they are "installers" that only apply it)

https://corrosionfree.com/find-a-dealer/

 

[Jeepwalker]

Here's another rust-preventative tip for you guys in the N. states that'll save you some time/$$/and a lot of potential frustration down the road:

Next time you go to rotate tires, apply a little RTV around the base of the lug nuts to seal the area where the stainless steel cap and steel lug nut meet. The reason is, if you don't what will happen is rust will occur UNDERNEATH the stainless cap and cause it to swell and you won't be able to get a lug wrench or socket on it. And you'll have to replace them ....at a couple bucks a piece. And the Dorman aftermarket replacements aren't as good of quality as the originals. Sure you could buy a set of chrome lug nuts at the parts store but the chrome is cheap and they'll rust up after a couple winters and look WORSE than what you had on there. I've had this happen on prior Jeeps and since sealing them ..no problems.

By sealing it with RTV you'll keep them looking nice for the life of the truck and be able to get your lug wrench on when you need.
Yeaaaaah!

 

[U&A]

Here's another rust-preventative tip for you guys in the N. states that'll save you some time/$$/and a lot of potential frustration down the road:

Next time you go to rotate tires, apply a little RTV around the base of the lug nuts to seal the area where the stainless steel cap and steel lug nut meet. The reason is, if you don't what will happen is rust will occur UNDERNEATH the stainless cap and cause it to swell and you won't be able to get a lug wrench or socket on it. And you'll have to replace them ....at a couple bucks a piece. And the Dorman aftermarket replacements aren't as good of quality as the originals. Sure you could buy a set of chrome lug nuts at the parts store but the chrome is cheap and they'll rust up after a couple winters and look WORSE than what you had on there. I've had this happen on prior Jeeps and since sealing them ..no problems.

By sealing it with RTV you'll keep them looking nice for the life of the truck and be able to get your lug wrench on when you need.
Yeaaaaah!

You can also buy new lugnuts that are not “beautified” with that stupid cover.

 

[Old Fart]

Does Amazon ship to Canada?

Sometimes yes, sometimes no. We have amazon.ca but it does not have as much as the .com site.

 

[Burla]

I was fluid filming an Accord yesterday, and was pretty impressed with Honda does. Number one there are plates protecting the body and an aluminum frame. Although, if salt gets behind that stuff the body is a goner. I looked it up, most cars are going away from quality, accord is actually getting better. Probably why they are number one as far as cars go.

But what really matters as far as this thread, they have a real cool under coating from the factory. I think it may just be a clear rubberized, but I'm not sure. I was able to coat the track bars, random bolts, and stuff, but it was pretty much a waste of time and FF because they come pretty protected straight from the factory. I wonder what would hold up better, the FF or the Rubberized. When it comes to removal and respray, clearly FF would be the best choice. But I wonder if that rubberized ever needs to be removed? Does salt get behind that? It looked good new, but I wonder what that stuff looks like after a salt season. I went to autozone, they only carried those rubberized coating in stock. Discuss? FF versus rubber

 

[Hemi395]

I've used the spray can rubberized undercoating on previous vehicles and it actually accelerated the rusting process. I found that it was good for about a year, maybe 2, then it would dry out and crack. Once it cracks, moisture would get behind it and it would start rusting. Eventually the rubberized coating would fall off leaving rusty metal.

Now factory coating like Burla described on the Accord, is good stuff. My dad's 2005 Pathfinder has that stuff all over the undercarriage and at 12 years old it's just finally starting to crack and allow rust to form behind it. Too bad there isn't an ounce of that on our trucks from the factory.

So my opinion is stay away from the stuff you can buy in a spray can but if it comes from the factory you should be good for a while as long as you keep the undercarriage washed.

 

[Jeepwalker]

You can also buy new lugnuts that are not “beautified” with that stupid cover.

Yeah, I have, they look like crap in a year ....

1) Cheap new chrome lug nuts will cost ya $25-$30
2) New chrome LN rust up in like a year in a salt envionment (like WI/MI), unless you spend a lot more on really good ones
3) If a guy takes a couple minutes to RTV the originals, they'll look good 20 years down the road. (I don't use an impact wrench on mine -- which stretches the cap)

It's just a suggestion ...mostly for guys who tend to hang on to their vehicles for a while.

 

[Burla]

Yeah Corey the number one issue with the rubber is how do you get it off when it starts to go bad. I'm pretty sure manufacturers could solve this issue if they put their minds to it, but I seriously doubt they want their vehicles to last forever anyway.

 

[Hemi395]

Yeah Corey the number one issue with the rubber is how do you get it off when it starts to go bad. I'm pretty sure manufacturers could solve this issue if they put their minds to it, but I seriously doubt they want their vehicles to last forever anyway.

That rubberized undercoating SUCKS to get off once it cracks and allows rust to form behind it. It will come off with a scraper in pieces where it's cracked and the other places that are still adheared are just a time bomb. Been there done that.

This is why I like FF and products like it. Yes you have to reapply annually but it's easily removed with brake or carb cleaner.

Car manufacturers are trying to do one thing, sell cars. Part of their stock value calculation is based on how many cars they sell in a calander year. They don't want people keeping cars 10 or 15 or even 20 years. They want people to lease a vehicle for 2-3 years and get a new one. It helps their totals for the year. If crawling under my truck once a year and spaying it with FF will help me keep this truck for 15-20 years then ill do it. Most cars around here and everywhere else in the rust belt rot out long before they mechanically die. I've seen 4th gen Rams around here with holes in the rockers. I saw a 2010 Silverado the other day with bubbles over the rear wheel wells. Multiple Super Duties with holes above the rear wheel wells. All them were running and driving fine. Let's face it, they want your vehicle to rot out from under you AFTER the warranty is up. They engineer them to last just that long and then too bad , so sad, buy a new truck for the low low price of $40k that will rot out in 5 years so you can buy another one.

Ok rant over.

 

[U&A]

I was fluid filming an Accord yesterday, and was pretty impressed with Honda does. Number one there are plates protecting the body and an aluminum frame. Although, if salt gets behind that stuff the body is a goner. I looked it up, most cars are going away from quality, accord is actually getting better. Probably why they are number one as far as cars go.

But what really matters as far as this thread, they have a real cool under coating from the factory. I think it may just be a clear rubberized, but I'm not sure. I was able to coat the track bars, random bolts, and stuff, but it was pretty much a waste of time and FF because they come pretty protected straight from the factory. I wonder what would hold up better, the FF or the Rubberized. When it comes to removal and respray, clearly FF would be the best choice. But I wonder if that rubberized ever needs to be removed? Does salt get behind that? It looked good new, but I wonder what that stuff looks like after a salt season. I went to autozone, they only carried those rubberized coating in stock. Discuss? FF versus rubber

IMO

“Rubberized” undercoatings are garbage. It has been proven over and over that your truck will rust feome the inside out with that stuff. Some sooner than others.

Its a great selling point for cars though. Sounds good to the average joe.

 

[U&A]

Yeah, I have, they look like crap in a year ....

1) Cheap new chrome lug nuts will cost ya $25-$30
2) New chrome LN rust up in like a year in a salt envionment (like WI/MI), unless you spend a lot more on really good ones
3) If a guy takes a couple minutes to RTV the originals, they'll look good 20 years down the road. (I don't use an impact wrench on mine -- which stretches the cap)

It's just a suggestion ...mostly for guys who tend to hang on to their vehicles for a while.

Dont buy chrome ones. Its a truck

IMO

And i plan to hang on to my ugly lugnut truck fo a long time.

Sorry had to say it. (Just joking around)

 

[smoothee]

Not sure if maybe I've missed it, but a good idea to drop the spare (if you're still running it) and spraying that area too.

 

[Hemi395]

Not sure if maybe I've missed it, but a good idea to drop the spare (if you're still running it) and spraying that area too.

Ah I knew I was missing something! Thanks for bringing this up!!

 

[smoothee]

Ah I knew I was missing something! Thanks for bringing this up!!

Happened to be messing around with the spare today for something unrelated. Even though I sprayed up there last year there were a few spots in need of a touch up again.

 

[U&A]

One more observation that i forgot to share about the 2 different chambers in the rockers.

Now i will say that i dont know what the underside of the 1/2 tons look like but on the 3/4 and 1tons, there are enough holes in the rockers ( inside chamber) for side step/nerf bars bolts that i go through with the extention wand so removing the tape on the “plug holes” is not necessary in my case. But I obviously dont have side steps.

Out of curiosity today I pulled the tape off of one to see what it look like underneath and it was in absolute perfect shape. Then Simply cleaned it off with degreaser and put gorilla tape back over the hole.

My wife hats that i dont have them but they get in the way for me so.....sorry honey.LOL

 

[gypsy400]

Another spot to hit really good is all the plastic clips that hold to brake and fuel lines.. I spray bombed FF on my truck last weekend after I washed it the night before.. and it's amazing how much water those little isolator clips hold..
When a brake line fails, it will be at the clips.

Sent from my SM-G903W using Tapatalk

 

[Dodge4x4810]

I apologize if this has already been mentioned, for there are a lot of posts to read through. Is this ok to spray on rubber components or should they be avoided? Does this dry, or is it always sticky? Do you have to re-apply annually or is it somewhat permanent like bed lining?