I need help

[WebbSav02]

What are you scanning it with?

There's no way you have the dash all lit up and aren't getting anything. Not even a "lost communication with ***"? Unless your using a 10$ code reader from Amazon or something.

If it is drivable, maybe go by a O'Reilly's or Auto Zone and have them scan it for you.


You need the ability to connect to and scan all of the various modules on the network. A cheap code reader pretty much only connects to the gateway module, and reports the OBD information from the gateway module. It doesn't gather data from the individual modules.

It sounds like you have a communications problem on the canbus net. Look up under the driver side floorboard, up by the emergency brake pedal and make sure the big BCM connector is plugged in and that the locking lever isn't dislodged.

We went to 2 different advanced auto parts and the only code that pops up is the “grill shutter circuit”

 

[WebbSav02]

That sucks.

As @Ken226 asked, you need to see what codes are present in the system. Our Rams can be very finicky at times, and battery/ground/connection issues can cause weird stuff.

Checking codes will at least give you a starting point, and you're in the right place for help.

Hang in there.

So we took it to advanced auto part and the only code that pops up is the grill shutter circuit because the grill shutters aren’t opening and closing properly but I’m wondering if that’s because it’s not getting enough power

 

[Ken226]

So we took it to advanced auto part and the only code that pops up is the grill shutter circuit because the grill shutters aren’t opening and closing properly but I’m wondering if that’s because it’s not getting enough power

Check the battery cables. Make sure they are tight.

Then check the cable connectors at the alternator, make sure they are clean and tight. Then crawl under and do the same at the starter.

Check all the grounds that you can possibly find.

 

[04fxdwgi]

And the security module reared it's head in '18

 

[04fxdwgi]

So we took it to advanced auto part and the only code that pops up is the grill shutter circuit because the grill shutters aren’t opening and closing properly but I’m wondering if that’s because it’s not getting enough power

Did they use the super duper electronic tester with the toaster in it? Probably not. You need to test under real load, not calculated one, with the toaster type tester.

If you know anyone that electrical knowledge, see if you can get them to test the B+ and ground cables for voltage drop.

 

[WebbSav02]

Check the battery cables. Make sure they are tight.

Then check the cable connectors at the alternator, make sure they are clean and tight. Then crawl under and do the same at the starter.

Check all the grounds that you can possibly find.

I bought a new battery for it, if I check all of these and it still doesn’t fix it, what do I do next?

 

[Ken226]

I bought a new battery for it, if I check all of these and it still doesn’t fix it, what do I do next?

It sounds like an intermittent electrical fault that is losing power under load, like a bad connection or ground somewhere. Given your level of mechanical ability and the tools/equipment you have available, if checking doesn't bring results, you should find a shop nearby that has a good reputation and let them have a go at it.



The advice 04fxdwgl gave you above is where I would start, but that requires a multimeter and the know-how to use it. I suspect that if you had either, you would have already volunteered the results of that testing. So, I think you should hop on google and start looking at the reviews of nearby shops.

 

[WebbSav02]

So I just bought a 2016 Ram 1500 Laramie 5.7 Hemi from a dealership in Thursday and am financing. Ever since I took it home, the knob shifter is flashing “d”, the dash is flashing “do not shift out of drive, service transmission”, and all my electronics are acting up (heater/heated seats/radio will go in and out, parking sensors turn themselves on and off, and the remote start does not work). We know it’s not the transmission or engine, and we got the battery, alternator, and starter tested at Advanced. We have also checked all the fuses. Turning it off and turning n works for a little bit, but then it starts acting up again. How do I fix this issue?

So turns out the dealer we bought it from put the wrong size battery in it and we couldn’t tell until we took it out since all the stickers were taken off, replaced it with a 800 volt or amp or whatever it’s called and she’s running beautifully now.

 

[Ken226]

So turns out the dealer we bought it from put the wrong size battery in it and we couldn’t tell until we took it out since all the stickers were taken off, replaced it with a 800 volt or amp or whatever it’s called and she’s running beautifully now.

What size was the "wrong" battery?

 

[crackerjack1957]

Probably a crap battery more than the size......LoL

 

[ExpressRules]

So turns out the dealer we bought it from put the wrong size battery in it and we couldn’t tell until we took it out since all the stickers were taken off, replaced it with a 800 volt or amp or whatever it’s called and she’s running beautifully now.

Great news. As cars have more and more "electrical' technical complexity it really makes proper evaluation of problems harder. I remember "in the old Days" we only had to look for fuel, air and spark and if all were there the car ran.

 

[62Blazer]

So turns out the dealer we bought it from put the wrong size battery in it and we couldn’t tell until we took it out since all the stickers were taken off, replaced it with a 800 volt or amp or whatever it’s called and she’s running beautifully now.

I'm glad you got it fixed. However I doubt the issue was because of the "wrong size battery". The main purpose of the battery is to supply power to start the engine. Once the engine is running the alternator should supply the proper power to run all the electronics. Even if they put a lower capacity battery in it, that shouldn't cause issues......if it had enough juice to start the engine it should run fine. The standard alternator is only rated around 160 amps max, and is outputting much lower than that under normal cruising conditions. The 800 or so amp battery is only required to run the starter upon initial fire up of the engine.
I would suspect a bad or loose battery connection that was "fixed" when you put the new battery in it. Or possibly the battery was simply bad....but would also suspect you would of had at least a periodic starting issue.
Again, glad you got it fixed and not saying you did anything wrong.

 

[RamDiver]

So turns out the dealer we bought it from put the wrong size battery in it and we couldn’t tell until we took it out since all the stickers were taken off, replaced it with a 800 volt or amp or whatever it’s called and she’s running beautifully now.

That would be 800 CCA or cold cranking amps.

Cold Cranking Amps Guide: How Much Do You Need?

Choosing the right cold cranking amps (CCA) ensures your car starts reliably. Learn how to pick the correct CCA and avoid common mistakes.

www.ufinebattery.com

.

 

[WebbSav02]

What size was the "wrong" battery?

We’re not sure, all the stickers were taken off of it but the boys tha were looking at it we’re guessing about a 300 whatever it’s called and we replaced it with an 800, all the electrical issues stopped but now the truck is telling me the battery is testing low but it’s a brand new battery

 

[WebbSav02]

You have an electrical Gremlin.

Check all ground connections for clean and tight.
Check all B+ connections, same as above
Check the harness connection to xmission, same as above.
Check battery, at rest. Is it above 12.2 VDC?
Check battery, running. Above 13.8 VDC?
Get a load tester (about $20 at Harbor Freight). Test the battery under load.
Inspect to ensure some critter didn't chew the harness anywhere / check for physical harness damage.

So we ended up replacing the battery with a brand new one, our guess was the original battery was too small but we aren’t sure cause all the stickers were taken off of it. All the electrical issues stopped, but now the truck is telling me the battery is testing low, but it’s a brand new battery.

 

[WebbSav02]

That would be 800 CCA or cold cranking amps.

Cold Cranking Amps Guide: How Much Do You Need?

Choosing the right cold cranking amps (CCA) ensures your car starts reliably. Learn how to pick the correct CCA and avoid common mistakes.

www.ufinebattery.com

.

Well now after replacing the battery, the electrical issues stopped, but now the truck is telling me the battery is testing low, even though it’s brand new. What could be causing that?

 

[Ritchie_Rich]

Alternator problem?

 

[mdc1990zr1]

We’re not sure, all the stickers were taken off of it but the boys tha were looking at it we’re guessing about a 300 whatever it’s called and we replaced it with an 800, all the electrical issues stopped but now the truck is telling me the battery is testing low but it’s a brand new battery

If the dealer was as shady as to take the time to rip the stickers off the battery, imagine all the other half a$$ed stuff that was done to put it out for sale. I hope this isn’t the beginning of a bad experience. I would suggest you take it to a local and reputable independent shop who will give it a comprehensive inspection and evaluation on your behalf if this wasn’t done before your purchase. If a maintenance log was not provided to you, I would start with fresh fluids at a minimum.

 

[RamDiver]

Well now after replacing the battery, the electrical issues stopped, but now the truck is telling me the battery is testing low, even though it’s brand new. What could be causing that?

I would get a battery minder/maintainer on that battery ASAP, or disconnect the negative battery connection whenever it is shut down. At least until you sort out a few things.

The most likely cause of the low battery alarm is either (1) a defective new battery, not that unusual, or (2) an alternator that is failing to recharge the battery, or (3) a bad connection from the alternator to the battery, or (4) a mystery current draw.

And in a 2016 truck, we can never rule out a TIPM fault. Let's save that one till the other suspects are cleared.

(1) The SOP for this condition is to load test the battery with a toaster-style load tester like this $18 device from Harbour Freight. The digital testers used at parts stores and elsewhere are prone to false positives.

100 Amp, 6/12V Battery Load Tester

Amazing deals on this 100 Amp 6/12V Battery Load Tester at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

(2) The alternator can be tested at a parts store for free.

(3) YouTube has video tutorials on voltage drop tests. One of them will include the large B+ wire from the alternator to the battery. A digital multimeter will be required for this test. A quick check that all connections are clean, corrosion-free, and snug may be attempted first and could identify a problem.

(4) The mystery currents are usually caused by a module that fails to sleep when you shut down the engine. They're not too difficult to get sorted out, but can be a bit tedious. I would suggest you start at the beginning with the easiest to the more tedious tasks.

Load testing a battery with the identified tester is inexpensive, painfully easy, and is a great piece of test gear to own. I've had 2 of them for decades.

Any questions?

.

 

[EdGs]

A bit after I replaced the battery in my '15, I kept getting a low battery light, mostly when it was cool out. I could hear no noticeable grunt when starting, etc.

Fast-forward to after I did my cam/lifter job. I still had the low battery indicator, so I put it on a 10 amp charge for the better part of a day.

No more low battery light since late October, and it' been damn cold for us in FL the past couple weeks.