launching and shifting 2012 6sp

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8675309

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2012 RCSB 2WD 6sp
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HEMI 5.7
Hi ya'll. Because of all the different versions of ERS, shifters, 5/6sp vs 8sp, etc...I have a couple questions on driving these rams. It is a 2012 rcsb, 5.7 with a 6sp and 3.55's.
1-best way to launch with a rcsb hemi, trac control on or off, stomp gas vs brake torquing, etc?
2-best way to shift out a run...leave in D, put in 6, shift 1-6, etc.

Any help for a new guy would be great
. Growing up in 90s trucks, I always brake torqued and left them in D, but with torque management and everything else, apparently things are changing.

Thank you.
 

Wild one

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Hi ya'll. Because of all the different versions of ERS, shifters, 5/6sp vs 8sp, etc...I have a couple questions on driving these rams. It is a 2012 rcsb, 5.7 with a 6sp and 3.55's.
1-best way to launch with a rcsb hemi, trac control on or off, stomp gas vs brake torquing, etc?
2-best way to shift out a run...leave in D, put in 6, shift 1-6, etc.

Any help for a new guy would be great
. Growing up in 90s trucks, I always brake torqued and left them in D, but with torque management and everything else, apparently things are changing.

Thank you.

Try launching both ways,but usually the trucks like to be launched off idle.They pull timing if you brake torque them,but try it both ways to see what the truck likes.The rest of your questions are best answered by the truck itself,try running it in D,then try shifting it manually.If it's basically stock with the original cam,it should like to be shifted about 5900/6000,but that's another one you'll want to practice with. The truck is your best indicator,figure out what it likes,and then practice and practice some more with launching it and shifting it. If you have a phone,find one of the 1/4 mile apps,and then go find yourself a lonely backroad and practice on it,using the phone app to help you out with figuring out what the truck likes,then head to the track and see how close you are .
 

NCRaineman

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Any help for a new guy would be great. Growing up in 90s trucks, I always brake torqued and left them in D, but with torque management and everything else, apparently things are changing.

Thank you.

Having a 2012 RCSB Hemi with 3.55s... I just leave mine in D and smash the skinny pedal to the floor. With traction control on there is no muss, no fuss, no spinning of tires... she just picks up her **** and goes.
 
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8675309

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Thanks, ya'll. I live in the middle of nowhere, I have 20 miles of empty country road to screw around on, on the way to work each day. I know it still won't be super accurate, but I bought a cheap obdII bluetooth deal to use with an app for getting your times and whatnot...to tide me over until I can make a journey to a track.

It's a stock truck right now. It feels like it takes a full second from stomping the gas to leaving (and it doesn't even spin), so I bought a pedal commander from Moe's on friday, so that should help a little. I will spend some more time trying different things out. I kept hearing about "2nd prime" and whatnot, but this morning it seemed to have a long 2nd gear (not the short little 2nd prime), so I'm not sure if mine has it or not.
 

NCRaineman

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Intake, muffler and a tune will help wake the vehicle up. I'm just running a canned "regular" tune and it's better than stock. Peak torque is around 4000RPM, so you've got to get the engine spinning to get the most out of it.

I'm pondering doing 3.92 or even 4.10 rear gears in the near future. Even in stock form the engine has plenty of power, but the truck is geared for cruising so our 0-60 time isn't nearly as good as it should be. The later R/T trucks with 3.92 gears and 8-speeds are hitting 60 in the low 5 second range.
 
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8675309

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I was considering OEM 4.10's and OEM LSD to be discreet and help my atrocious 8 second 0-60....it has a simple muffler swap right now and a k&n CAI, but I am going to get a vararam. I got a chrysler warranty with it, so I am chicken at having issues....not at having to pay, but having to tell my wife that the extended warranty I bought won't cover a random 3,000$ fix because I wanted to "make it go faster" haha.
 
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8675309

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Hell I'm even going to do 2" drop springs in the rear, simply because I can put back in factory springs if needed without too much hassle. Everything I do needs to be discreet or reversible.
 

NCRaineman

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I was considering OEM 4.10's and OEM LSD to be discreet and help my atrocious 8 second 0-60....it has a simple muffler swap right now and a k&n CAI, but I am going to get a vararam. I got a chrysler warranty with it, so I am chicken at having issues....not at having to pay, but having to tell my wife that the extended warranty I bought won't cover a random 3,000$ fix because I wanted to "make it go faster" haha.

Remember, for the dealer to void your warranty they've got to prove your mod caused whatever failure. If you get MOPAR gears and have them installed by a MOPAR shop you shouldn't have any issues.

If you've got a K&N intake there's no need to spend money on the vararam, unless you just happen to like the look better. All the aftermarket intakes perform about the same. Looking at vararam I can't see how it's going to do anything but suck hot air, as it is sitting dead in the middle of the engine bay like a breather on an old-school carbureted engine. Heat is the enemy here, we want to get the intake away from that as much as is reasonably possible.

Muffler swap is good, that's all mine has. The factory pipes flow plenty well enough for our application. The biggest thing holding the exhaust system back is the factory manifolds. They're too heavy and don't flow nearly as well as they should to be bolted to a 400hp engine. Headers are nice, but they do cost.

Try the Pedal Commander out and see what you think... then consider getting a tuner. You'll need the tuner for when you swap rear gears anyways, so might as well get it done.
 
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8675309

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Thanks.

Anyone have thoughts on tow/haul mode?
 

NCRaineman

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Thanks.

Anyone have thoughts on tow/haul mode?

I have not used tow/haul in mine... as I have not towed or hauled anything yet LOL.

That being said, it is my understanding that tow/haul holds the gears a bit longer and will give you a downshift sooner. I don't believe it would really help with 0-60 times.
 
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