I hope the mod(s) will forgive me but this is my 950th post. I 've posted this info on and off over the years, but never all of it in one spot.
Maybe this will help some of you younger 2nd gen owners out with some basic info on how to properly lift a 2nd gen 4x4. You can't really cheat on the basic rules of axle travel and 4 link triangulation.
BTW this info also applies to later HD rams with front coil and rear leaf springs.
I read a lot of posts where Ram owners try to fit the largest tire under the least amount of lift. That pretty much works on a street truck but I consider a functional suspension one that works with the tire/wheel combo in any situation. If you have to creep over speed bumps or curbs to get into parking lots without rubbing that's pretty much a failure.
One of the most basic questions asked on Ram forums is how much lift do I need for x sized tires? While fitment is based on a couple other factors such as wheel backspacing and centering, I'll cover the lift basics here.
We'll start with the front suspension. The two ways of adding lift to a Ram is either coil springs or spacers. Rather than debate the logic of one over the other, I'll focus on what happens when you use either.
As a rule of thumb, for every 2 inches you add in lift to your Ram you will move the front axle back about 3/4 of an inch and uncenter under the frame about the same amount. So a 3 inch spacer/spring would move the axle about an inch. A 5 inch (another common size) spring would move your axle back and over about 2 inches, etc. Obviously this causes caster and dog legging issues along with severe triangulation of the factory track bar, control arms and ball joints. It degrades the ride because the of the control arm angles, and places unrealistic loads on shocks, ball joints and the afore mentioned track bar. The front sway bars ability to control body roll is also compromised to the angle of the links which causes them to deflect under load rather than load the bar and vehicle, destroying handling. I'm going to explain in a moment why a properly lifted vehicle retains this piece.
This why quality manufacturers go to great lengths to design suspension systems and not just lifts. A decent suspension system not only lifts the vehicle, but retains a decent ride, handling within reason (NOT removing sway bars) and allow for factory settings of caster and toe in. Cheaper easier to install systems tend to use factory mounting points as much as possible and may require some drilling to bolt things up. Think Rough Country or similar. Higher quality kits will make sure the control arms are as parallel to the frame as possible for a great ride and handling and usually require cutting and welding. Think BDS, Fabtech, or DOR. If the adage is that you get what you pay for it certainly holds true here.
So a proper suspension would include longer control arms to restore caster and ride, some kind of track bar system or bracketry to restore the triangulation of the and center the axle, and if needed, a drop pitman arm to restore steering geometry and reduce bump steer. Lastly, a proper suspension will have links or drop brackets to restore sway bar geometry. Having a lifted vehicle with a higher center of gravity needs all the help it can get, and with a proper non tank like ride will need roll control.
I'm going to reach out on the track bar for a moment. Its seems no other piece on a 2nd gen 4x4 suspension draws more ire or has inspired more design mods then this piece. So lifting a truck and buying another Oem replacement is a waste. There are still about a dozen or so companies that make anything from re thought OEM parts to 3rd gen conversions to designs beefy enough to whack a rhino. Even mods to the OEM bar which can adjust for wear on the stock ball joint. Seriously, your budget should include replacing the track bar with something better.
Someone is thinking...ok what about leveling kits...? Well they do work but you still will move the front axle and with certain wheel/tire combos, you will notice the off center axle from the front of the truck. There's nothing worse then adding a leveling kit to better clear 33 inch tires (a common mod) and then having them rub on the right side inner fender. FAIL!
Since we've covered the basics of front axles, lets talk about the back. There are about 3 common ways to lift the rear suspension on a 2nd gen Ram. They are.. add a leaves/new springs, stacking or longer blocks, and shackle lifts.
To me stacking or replacing blocks is the least preffered method, aibiet the easiest. The danger and carnage of a stacked block setup popping out is still fresh on my mind, decades after seeing it happen. Stacking blocks or taller blocks also induce spring wrap up quicker on slippery or uneven terrain, causing potential drive train damage. Block lifts tend to cause springs to "back arch" over time, requiring replacement. So why do the job twice? Anything over the factory block is too much. Add a leafs or AALs, or new springs are the better/best solutions. BTW, I recommend long style AALs over the shorter ones because they cause the same issues as blocks.
Which ever method you use, you will start to change the geometry of the rear axle as well, moving it forward towards the cab. This becomes noticeable starting with 7 inches of lift and is more pronounced when a shackle lift is utilized. You can compensate by getting new springs with the center bolt off center or a "zero length spring" a short piece of steel that mounts to the existing pack but moves the axle backwards.
I hope this answers some basic questions about how your suspension/steering is affected by installing lift components. I certainly don't consider myself an expert on the subject but after 11 years of owning an modding the same truck and helping a few others with suspension installs, I do consider myself knowledgeable with what not only works, but the perils of failure.
Btw I spend much of my time reading information on other sites as well. This not only includes forums but vendor sites that still build 2nd gen components.
If you are planning something more than a 3 or 5 inch short arm lift I would suggest expanded reading. There are many other sources of information which can offer knowledge of suspension parts, but only a few cater to 2nd gen trucks. Per forum rules I'm not allowed to post them here.
Also a 5 inch lift is the invisible line where anything over that may start requiring more mods.
Thanks for reading!
Edit: I'm adding this information for owners of Off Road Rams and hope you will find this helpful.
What makes an off road ram? Contrary to urban legend...these trucks did NOT come with lift spacers or Cummins diesel springs from the factory. Off road rams came with "special high rate springs" front and rear that lifted the ram. Removed from off roads, the springs have the same length and arch as standard ram springs, but the extra stiffness (higher rate) increases height over a stock Ram.
So, you want to put a 5 inch lift on your off road. The 5 inch lift made by Rough Country says it won't work. Yes it will...BUT...it will only lift your ram about 2 inches over it's stock heigth. It will be 5 inches over a non off road. So if you want to lift your off road 5 inches over its STOCK heigth, you'd need a 7 inch lift. Make sense? Keep reading this until it does.
Conversely, if you want your off road to be 5 inches higher than a non off road ram...add a set of 3 inch spacers, longer control arms and track bar bracket from a 5 inch lift. You may need an add a leaf for the rear but AALS still lift off road rear packs. Your "off road" will now sit 5 inches higher than a non off road. BTW, this is the same setup I run on my non off road.